Shop Manual. I want to replace my Inner Tie Rod Ends

I went in to the dealership for the factory recall on my lower ball joints. After they replaced them, they told me that I my car could use some new inner tie rod ends and they would gladly do it for me for $400. SMACK!

My bro works for an auto parts store so he got me some MOOG inner tie rod ends for $30 each.

Then I lifted my car up on a rack to look at replacing them. Unfortunately, the directions in the parts box were in Spanish on both sides of the paper. I know I live in Texas but COME ON... https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

So I couldn't figure out how to remove and replace them. Does anyone have a shop manual or a chiltons or something else that you can scan and post so I can save myself $300? Does this require some kind of special tool or can I use a big pair of channel locks? Also, there's some kind of washer clip that I can't figure out but I think it locks this thing in place. HOW do I get that thing out??

I know that Lisle tools makes this for tie rods. Its $52.99. http://www.autosupplyusa.com/intierodtool.html

Now I know that I will need to get an alignment immediately afterwards so I have that lined up too.

Your help is appreciated. This will take the "clunking" out of my front end and it will make me a HAPPY MAN! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif

Hey ablythe, I was just curious if you could describe that "clunking" noise you have on your car. The reason I ask is because the last time I got new tires, the tech said my tie rods should be replaced because they were worn or loose. He quoted me $105 to replace the front left side. I'm not even going to see what the stealer can rape me for.

As for the noise I get, the best way to describe is if I go over a a rough road or some bumps, I can hear some kind of movement in my suspension that sounds like a clunking sound from the front. I already had my struts replaced so that can't be it.

that sounds like what mine sounds like. clunking when I drive down the road.

:twisted: you need a special tool for the inner tie rod if not just let somebody do it because that tool is pretty expensive :twisted:

the clunking noise could be any of a half dozen different things on a 7th gen galant.
the front end had a LOT of wear problems to different pieces. The lower ball joints were the worst (which youve just had repaired under recall)..
however, the OUTER tie rods suffer from premature wear, as well.
and so do the lateral arms, upper control arms, sway bar bushings, struts, and the occasional sway bar link.

The inner tie rods are actually the least troublesome part on the whole front end.
im not saying they cant wear, because they obviously can. But i wouldnt be surprised if there is something else wrong up there.

I put it up on the rack and peeled the boot back to see the inner tie rod end joint. To make sure that was it, I pushed and pulled the wheel and saw the play in the joint. When mitsu diagnosed it a week ago, it was actually the second time that a tech recommended a replacement.

You're absolutely right that it could be anything in the front end but everything else looks pretty tight. I have new lower ball joints courtesy of mitsubishi.

Manybrews, what is the procedure for taking the inner tie rod ends off? I don't have a shop manual and there's this clip that I couldn't figure out so I just stopped and put it back together. Does this require a special tie rod axle tool?

Thanks for the help.

a special tool is nice to have, but not required.

Unfortunatly, i dont really feel comfortable explaining how to do something like that over the 'net...
if you screw it up, it could easily result in a crash and/or death.

Has anyone got any info on changing rack ends. Is there a special tool to hold the rack steady so your not twisting it when removing the rack end(inner tie rod end).
On the rack side there are just two little square holes, no were to put a spanner or anything to hold the bit sticking out the rack from twisting when turning the rack ends off.

Got it off no worries. I just screwed the inner tie rod end off with a pipe wrench and extension. Came off easy in the end, i had the rack as far in as i could on the side i was working on to be alleviate and possible twisting/angular torque on the rack.