Head Rebuild Questions

I Recently bought my first Galant it came with a paint job wiring for a system(no cd player no subs, but kickers in the door and rear) And a bad head the timing belt broke and it skipped timing. The guy I bought it from was a mechanic and apparently the guy who brought it to the shop didnt want to pay to fix it so I got it for 400 great deal to me. So 3 days later the head is off with the intake attatched and i start to inspect.

Cylinders Not dented just dirty.
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mb...uhoo1_1280.jpg

The head doesnt seem to be cracked(Ill add the pic later) they are just dirty and a few of the valves are clearly bent. At first I was going to pay 150 plus 22 a valve to have a machine shop do it for me but as my income starts slowing because of the changing seasons I decided to do the valve work myself and send the head to a machine shop after the valves are removed for resurfacing then put the valves bac in myself.

SO before I jump into this I wanted to know if there are any risks I should know about any specific method i should use?

The valve guides that are pressed in the head are likely cracked if the valves were bent. If I were you, I'd pick up a used complete head at a junkyard and get it either checked or sent out for resurfacing. It's more expensive to buy all the valves and valve guides.

if you are going that way buy all new valves because yes some will be clearly bent but some will be slightly off causing worn guides and valve seal issues in a brand new head, best thing to do is all new valves and please label every lifter and valve spring so it goes back exactly where it was as this is commonly overlooked and can lead to failures down the road. if you need any help or further questions PM me but as of right now, new valve seals, valves and guides are a good start and have the shop deck the head, guides and give them the new valves to do a valve job then put it back together yourself. machining my head cost me 300 for what i just said up here then i put it together myself

And can you please tell me how you took out the head bolt cuz taking them out the wrong way can cause cracking. Always from outside towards the center. Good luck with everything

@keith its hard to find a used head around here thats why i chose to rebuile i found all 16 valves for 95 all valve guides for 80 machining is 80 cuzz i know the guy makin it 255 for all only 5 more then a head on ebay.

@ galanttuner unfortunately i tool off the rockers after i pulled the head and didnt mark them. and im not sure in what order i pulled out the head boltz i think i did the corners first and went left or rite. Im curious how will placing the springs and rockers in a different order mess up the head down the road?

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Originally Posted by TruBLUE

@keith its hard to find a used head around here thats why i chose to rebuile i found all 16 valves for 95 all valve guides for 80 machining is 80 cuzz i know the guy makin it 255 for all only 5 more then a head on ebay.

@ galanttuner unfortunately i tool off the rockers after i pulled the head and didnt mark them. and im not sure in what order i pulled out the head boltz i think i did the corners first and went left or rite. Im curious how will placing the springs and rockers in a different order mess up the head down the road?

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You never mix them. I learned that in my engines class and will be getting my ASE in engine repair soon. My understanding is that everything wears a certain way, that's why you can't put the pistons back in different holes or the bearing caps in different spots as it won't seem to hurt anything but with throw off geometries ever so slightly where longevity is shortened. You may never see an issue by mixing them up but there could be. I just don't chance things when it comes to engines.

EBay worked great for me got oversized valves new guides new lifters for 200 shipped and then the head work they will cut the valves and seats to match which is the best bet for both time money and reliability.

Yea its like he said its usually the fact that the rpm and accelerations the parts in the engine see that make huge differences in how they wear I know in the mitsu book it says if u must take rocker assembly off take all off as one unit then mark it as u pull apart. If its any dent on the rocker replace that rocker.

Those cylinder walls look rusty which means there could be pitting on the walls. Best bet is looking for a head. Also mix and matching rockers and lifters wont be an issue.

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Originally Posted by imback

Those cylinder walls look rusty which means there could be pitting on the walls. Best bet is looking for a head. Also mix and matching rockers and lifters wont be an issue.

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This is a very untrue statement about mixing and matching. It won't be an issue right away but down the road it will be and guaranteed that by the time it fails you never relate it to mixing those things up when you drop or float a valve. Mitsubishi tells you to do it for a reason, not just because and its a very overlooked detail that I expect most to disagree with becuase they don't know any better.

as long as your adjusters are bleed correctly, and rockers are adjusted, I'm sure they will be fine, mismatching valves, pistons, cams, are more of a concern since they are a primary wear items, its is still good technique to not mismatch at all, this mattered more so in push rod engines, but they still need to be inspected before putting them back on

OK let me put mixing and matching into perspective

If you go to the junkyard find the best fender there take it home to replace yours

Only to see its ever so slightly off

That's because its lifespan of chassis flex and bumps in the road differs from the life of the one on your car and as much can be said for engine components.

They all are not 100% perfectly identical so they break in slightly different

But if you have 3 parts in a series that all have slight differences between the original 3 parts in that position you end up with larger differences unseen to the naked eye like this maybe y'all can make sense of this
First line cam second line rocker third line valve

|\| + ||\ + /|| gets you /\\ and nothing is sitting perfect

Ok Gotcha

So your telling me when you have a lifter collapse you should replace all the lifters and rockers? You guys are over analyzing this. You don't have race motors you have a stock motor. You guys do know that there is constant oil pressure between the head of the lifter and the rocker. There also called hydraulic lifters for a reason cause they adjust them selves. If it was a solid lifter then that would be a different story.

do you have any pictures of the head as it sits now?

not yet but ill take pics soon. and im doing a leak test to c which valves definitely need to be replaced...

Ive seen that places like autozone and nappa charge different prices for the exhaust valves and intake valves what is the difference between intake valves and exhaust valves structural wise, is one stronger, longer, or treated different then the other?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imback

So your telling me when you have a lifter collapse you should replace all the lifters and rockers? You guys are over analyzing this. You don't have race motors you have a stock motor. You guys do know that there is constant oil pressure between the head of the lifter and the rocker. There also called hydraulic lifters for a reason cause they adjust them selves. If it was a solid lifter then that would be a different story.

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If you correctly clean and bleed the lifters you should be fine but keeping them in order also helps. We aren't saying it will cause any immediate issues but hurt long term reliability. Personally I always buy new lifters cuz it doesn't matter where they end up and it's worth the added peace of mind they won't tick either

The SOHC lifters get adjusted even though they are hydraulic. They're HYDRAULIC, not computer operated, there is still a set point. If you took one look at the valvetrain you'd know that. They need to be fully bled (thus fully expanded) and then set to spec as per the FSM. The hydraulic adjust then works from there.

This is what it looked like

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mc...8uhoo1_500.jpg
http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mc...8uhoo2_250.jpg
http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mc...8uhoo3_250.jpg
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mc...8uhoo4_250.jpg
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mc...oo8_r1_250.jpg

I have to take new pics. Recently I removed all of the intake valves a few of the exhaust valves semi smoothed the intake and exhaust ports and cleaned the head.

Im ordering these valves this friday
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-G...d667b1&vxp=mtr

Finding Valves that fit on ebay was a horrible experience so i ended up sending them bac and not getting them. Fortunately My mechanic buddy had a bac up rebuilt head to spare but i kept the old head and plan on slowly rebuilding it and port n polish...

I know this isnt the rite thread for this but if anybody wants my old head they can have it for 100 only thing on it is springs and the retainers.. no cam had to put it in my new head