Advice needed on Crank, No Start

I'm hoping this doesn't get too wordy, but I've been told more information is better.

2000 Galant ES 2.4L Automatic

Three weeks ago I got a "check engine" light that amounted to P0420 "Catalitic Converter Below Threshold". This was a little upsetting since I replaced the CAT and both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors a year and a half ago, but I knew the aftermarket CATs don't last long. Since my state doesn't do emissions tests, I decided to push this off for a future fix. (I don't think any of that is important, but again completeness)

Last week I pull out of my garage, and the door breaks, so I shut off the car to run in, get my tools and fix the door. Door's all fixed, hop back in the car and no start. It cranks and cranks, and sounds "normal" but never sounds like it fires. After work I troubleshoot it down to a fuel pump by:
- Starter Fluid Test - Car Runs
- Check voltages at relays - Voltages Good
- Check voltage at pump - Voltage Good
- Pull fuel line off of pump - no fuel - bad pump

Put my car in neutral, push it in the garage, put it back in park and wait for pump to arrive. Pump comes in, swap it out, still no start. In a moment of judgement lapse, I pull the fuel line off the pump to remove it thinking I had a bad part and get fuel everywhere (thank God for safety glasses). Fuel pump is good. The crank sounds a little different, but not like a no compression crank. Sounds more like it is working harder, or the battery is dying. Recharge the battery and do the starter fluid test again. No dice, car won't start. Maybe I burnt up the plugs, or they went bad (Can't think of any other reason it would go from being fine to not starting while parked) It's about time for a plug replacement anyway, so I replace the plugs with NGK Iridiums. Still no start. I'm starting to bang my head against a wall. Get my spark tester and there is no spark on any of the 4 cylinders. No OBD codes, but I can't tell if that's because it won't store codes if it doesn't start. I can see the rocker arms moving through the oil cap when I crank the engine, but that's all I have time/patience for tonight.

Tomorrow I'm going to do a compression test, but after that I'm out of ideas. My searches on here have lead me to believe it might be the crankshaft position sensor, or cam position sensor, or maybe even a timing issue. Strange that any of those would happen coincidentally with nothing happening but a fuel pump swap, but who knows? I'm not usually a fan of shotgunning parts, so if anyone has any more tests I could do to narrow this down, or any advice on what it might be, it might just save my sanity. If there is any information I can provide that might help, please let me know, and I will update as much as I can. Unfortunately, I work a lot during the week so I will probably only be able to update once a day, about this time.

Thanks,
--Rage

Update: compression test shows compression on all four cylinders. 1 and 4 ~ 190 psi, 2 and 3 ~ 140 psi. Isn't phenomenal for 2 and 3 to be that much lower, but shouldn't be a start issue. Crankshaft sensor, Reluctor Wheel, and timing belt on order. Should be here Thursday. I'll update when I get them changed out. If anyone has any ideas in the meantime, please let me know.

Alright, I'm hitting a wall. I can't get the crankshaft pulley off, and am afraid I'm about to strip the pulley out. I've got the puller so tight it's turning the crankshaft instead of pulling the pulley off. Am I missing something?

Have you checked the timing belt? There is also the balance shaft belt; it usually breaks and kills crankshaft position sensor (no spark & no fuel).

The pulley can be removed by hand, it has only 4 bolts. Maybe it's rusted a bit?

I'm working on getting to the belts. Top timing cover is off and the timing belt looks good, but I can't get to the balance belt yet because of the stuck pulley. Hopefully i get it off tomorrow. Does the Reluctor plate usually need replaced as well? I got a spare just in case, but have heard the sprocket is a PITA to get off the crankshaft, and I don't have an impact wrench.

Usually, the plate is okay; but in your case it can be bent or damaged. I would rotate crankshaft and check the clearance everywhere. To unbolt the sprocket Mitsubishi suggests a "special" tool, but it can be made from a thick steel strip or you can use starter (before removing timing belt).

Just like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkeDnSeCEoE

It was indeed my balance shaft belt (obliterated my CKS). Reluctor plate looks okay, it'll have to be since i couldn't get my crankshaft bolt off, even with the starter bump. Not sure how/when the belt snapped, but at least i can fix it now. Okay, I'm almost there! I have all belts off, tensioners loose and the old sensor unbolted. I can't figure out where the wires go. It disappears behind the timing guide and reappears up by the top timing cover bolt. All the Chilton gives me is after removing the bolts, "remove the sensor and reinstall the new one in the same way." Is it routed behind the power steering pump somewhere? Does the timing guide have to come out?Does anyone happen to have pictures? If I can get this figured out, I can hopefully have it back together and running on Saturday.

Here is normal manual: http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/16.PDF

Search for : CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION <2.4L ENGINE>

Pre-removal and Post-installation Operation
• Timing Belt Removal and Installation (Refer to GROUP 11A, Timing Belt P.11A-31.)

REMOVAL STEPS
1. PRESSURE HOSE AND TUBE ASSEMBLY CONNECTION
2. POWER STEERING OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
3. POWER STEERING OIL PUMP BRACKET
4. CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

http://tearstone.com/2000-2002-eclipse-service-manual/

This is phenomenal! I can't thank you enough.

Final update: everything back together and it's running great! Thanks again for the help.

Summary: bad fuel pump and broken balance shaft belt. Replaced pump, belts, crankshaft position sensor, and dish plugs.