Guess what...?
After about 150 miles... I can hear a slight tapping in the head. Seems to still be running fine, but that tap wasn't there before. I'll be looking to pull the head off soon...dang it.
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Guess what...?
After about 150 miles... I can hear a slight tapping in the head. Seems to still be running fine, but that tap wasn't there before. I'll be looking to pull the head off soon...dang it.
Satan,
Been wondering; Did you ever pull the head to see what if anything was was wrong? I would have assumed the tapping was just the normal 4g64 2.4L Mitz hydralic valve noise an older engine makes.
I've blow 3 timing belts on my 94 galant ES (car has 240K miles) without any appearent engine damage. My car likes to eat them right at 60K and I tend to put things off too long; blew one doing 80mpg and another just idling in the driveway. As long as she is running I would not mess with it. My car is still going strong (still getting 26-30 mpg city and highway).
great post!! now we need to get the one for the V6!
Well, I am planning to tackle this job. I have read this DIY, the Haynes Manual and the 8G service manual.
I have tried to reconcile all the information, but I am still confused about a few things. (By the way the Haynes manual does have some few mistakes here and there, I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, mostly on the illustration references and naming.)
Question 1)
8G manual 11A-33:
Do not use a spanner or the similar tool to turn special tool
MD998738. Otherwise, the auto-tensioner set pin may be
broken. Turn special tool MD998738 by hand only.
1. Remove the rubber plug from the rear of the timing belt
cover assembly. Then screw in special tool MD998738 by
hand until the tensioner arm is touching the auto-tensioner
pushrod.
Do I really need this tool MD998738 ? (looks like a thin bar)
Is this needed with/along tool MD998767 ? (looks like a square thing with two prongs). I can see that this tool (MD998767) is necessary for the correction tension adjustment. It has been said so before in this thread.
Question 2)
Haynes 2A-8
Caution 2. do not try to turn the crankshaft with a camshaft sprocket bolt......
What does this warning mean?
Does the camshaft sprocket bolt must be removed before attempting to move the crankshaft (and along with it the camshaft sprocket?)
Or does it mean that I must not try to attach the camshaft bolt into the crankshaft (somehow) and try to move it??
Question 3)
I am a little bit hesitant to loosen the crankshaft bolt as described here in this thread (run the engine with a wrench against the frame of the car...). Is this just safe for the engine? Is there another way to do this? I suppose a big breaker bar, the correct socket and some WD40? Using this method, is the crankshaft going to stay put while I add force counterclockwise? We know that we must not move the crankshaft counterclockwise.
So, how much force (ft-lb) to loosen the bolt?
what size (mm) is this crankshaft bolt?
I'm sorry If they are stupid questions, I am not an expert, but really trying to learn seriously all I can.
:-)
Thank you in advance for your always expert advice.
I have an answer for my own question #1: for the 8G only tool MD998767 is needed. And some people have done without it. Refer to thread called something like "water pump nightmare".
question 2:
i dont understand that warning but you should rotate the crankshaft bolt with a wrench or whatever till everthing is lined tdc and all marks are good before u yank off the crankshaft bolt and remove the tensioner and belt. Rotate clockwise or the same direction as the engine rotates when moving the crankshaft bolt.
question 3:
u can do it the way described or use a heavy duty impact wrench to remove it also. Cant do it with a breaker bar you will rotate it or ur not strong enough. If ur not doing the balance shaft belt you dont need to remove the crankshaft sprocket... Since ur in there i assume u will change the belt tho..
anyone know how to remove the power sterring tensioner completely in this step. My bearing is shot and i cant figure out how to remove it.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24tim...t/DSC01791.JPG
i am about to try this myself and was wondering if this will be pretty much the same for a 2L SOCH 4g63, if anyone has any advice id appeciate it alot,
where are the pics from the original post?
+1 on pics. altho it is a 5 year old post....
doing it this weekend, ug...
please,Bring back the PIC'S !!!
I would go get the Hayes Manual, alot more information, better discription and it lists all the torque values
Hi folks. Does anyone have detailed instructions on changing timing belt on a 2002 2.4l?
your best bet is to get a haynes manual, as it lists all the torque values and cautions and what not... i did the belt change with the haynes, and it was pretty informative and easy, just time consuming... lol
new to the forum, so be kind....working on a 2001 galant es...2.4 sohc
i've been working with a haynes manual as well as this tutorial and in the process of putting the timing belt back on i've run into an issue.
my haynes manual tells me to start putting the timing belt on at the crankshaft...problem is is that the timing sprocket is connected to the crankshaft damper pulley. the whole assembly goes on after the lower cover goes on...which happens after the tension is set (please stop me if i've missed something here). This seems off to me, to set the tension before the belt is around all the proper parts.
dumb question, but is the crankshaft damper pully supposed to include a location for the timing belt?
I'm doing a timing belt replacement on a 2003 Galant ES 2.4L SOHC engine and I've run into a problem.
When putting the belt on, the haynes manual says to put it onto the crank pulley first, then the oil pump, then the guide pulley, then the camshaft, then the tensioner.
Like this:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...113001631a.jpg
My problem is the tensioner pulley is actually TOUCHING the guide pulley, or what I think is the guide pulley, and the belt isn't long enough to go around both the guide pulley and the tensioner. Also the "guide pulley" (in quotes because I'm not sure that the pulley I'm looking at is the guide pulley) is sticking out about an inch from where the tensioner pulley is.
Like this:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...13001629-1.jpg
So does the belt actually go in between these pulleys? Is the pulley on the right even the guide pulley, and if not, where the heck is it? Those are the only two pulleys that look like the timing belt should touch, although if I'm being honest it looks like the timing belt SHOULD NOT touch the pulley on the right, as its not long enough to fit around the camshaft pulley when it does.
So I solved the mystery of the strange pulley placement. I should have prefaced my previous post by saying I didn't take the timing belt off, another "mechanic" did, then quit when the job got too tough for him.
I found this picture online:
http://www.denlorstools.com/shop/wpi...ing_Belt_3.jpg
Anyone see anything wrong with MY picture? Yes, that dumba$$ bolted the guide pulley to the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley on!! I found the correct bolt hole, bolted it on, and got the timing belt on perfectly...180 degrees off. Tried starting it and smoke started puffing out of the intake snorkel, lol.
Oops.
Good news is that everything seems good, no noise coming from the pistons or valves, so hopefully no head damage! I'll update again when I finish the job.:icon_mrgreen:
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24tim...t/DSC01809.JPG
ok did that gear ever get stuck on any of you guys next to the 2 mine rotates but gets stuck then rotates again and chews up the teeth on my belt
I'm no expert on Galant's (as shown by my first two posts lol) but that sounds like a bad bearing to me...