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well you might want to remove the clip that holds the brake line to the knuckle. if you detatch that you can move the knuckle further away.
also,
i always use a hammer and a socket extention to tap the axle splines through the hub
just hold the socket extention(or screwdriver) against the axle, then hit the screwdriver/extention with the hammer(this way you don't risk damaging the axle threads w/ the hammer
just tap tap tap until the axle comes free.
you usually have to put a lot of english on that knuckel to get the axle to clear
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>well you might want to remove the clip that holds the brake line to the knuckle. if you detatch that you can move the knuckle further away.
also,
i always use a hammer and a socket extention to tap the axle splines through the hub
just hold the socket extention(or screwdriver) against the axle, then hit the screwdriver/extention with the hammer(this way you don't risk damaging the axle threads w/ the hammer
just tap tap tap until the axle comes free.
you usually have to put a lot of english on that knuckel to get the axle to clear</div>
Well see I can get the axle out of the hub by using a ratchet ext. and a hammer. Where my problem is I cant get the axle all the way out so it will come free. (See pic above da's first post)
Edit:
Ok I finally removed the driverside axle. The way it came off was so gay though. I have been trying to remove the damn thing since about 6 or 7 o'clock yesterday. Today itwas the same thing , I couldnt move it. But on one random pull it just came out. I wasnt even trying hard and it just came right out. Right now Im happy and pissed at the same time because all that time I spent trying to get it out and couldnt, and today how it just came out so easily :?
And now cant get the pass out.
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I was thinking what if I cut the boot around the balljoint and broke the axle into 2 pieces. Will that work?
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gravy)</div><div class='quotemain'>I was thinking what if I cut the boot around the balljoint and broke the axle into 2 pieces. Will that work?</div>
did you unbolt the strut fork from the lower control arm?
that helps get things out of the way.
unbolt the upper control arm from the frame, (that way you don't have to deal with the upper gballjoint)
unclip the brake line
unbolt the brake caliper and sit it on a bucket or somethign(DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE LINE)
unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe
unbolt the strut fork from the lower arm
then you shold be able to get the axle out
you mihgt have to really pry on the knuckle in one direction and bend the outer cvjoint as far as it bends
but you should be able to get it out.
if you have a lot of trouble
then just unbolt the lower control arm AND the curved lower compression arm
then you shouldn't have ANY trouble w/ the axle
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All you gotta do to take the axel out is use a pop out tool and make sure that nothing is in the way of its release. I never had to unbolt any of the stuff talked about above. I usually jack up the car and loosen the bolts holding the lateral arm to the frame, unbolt axle and use prybar to pull it out. 10 minutes tops 20 min for both sides.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'>All you gotta do to take the axel out is use a pop out tool and make sure that nothing is in the way of its release. I never had to unbolt any of the stuff talked about above. I usually jack up the car and loosen the bolts holding the lateral arm to the frame, unbolt axle and use prybar to pull it out. 10 minutes tops 20 min for both sides.</div>
Wow 20 mins! It took me 8hrs to get them both out.
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Well havent update in awhile. Ive been busy and only able to work on the G for a small amount of time. I've done pretty much about evething I can do at this point. Right now removing the spacer is the problem, even with a torch it still wont come out. My question is this, does the spacer screw out out? and wouldnt heating it up make the metal expand thus making it harder to remove? Someone please shed some light on this
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gravy)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'>All you gotta do to take the axel out is use a pop out tool and make sure that nothing is in the way of its release. I never had to unbolt any of the stuff talked about above. I usually jack up the car and loosen the bolts holding the lateral arm to the frame, unbolt axle and use prybar to pull it out. 10 minutes tops 20 min for both sides.</div>
Wow 20 mins! It took me 8hrs to get them both out.</div>
Dont feel bad man, I couldnt get my auto axles out, I just cut the boots since I had replacements from Raxle.com Even with the trans out, I only was able to get one of the boots out. With my new axles, they come out easy though.
For the spacer from my understanding, you heat up the area around the spacer and not the spacer it self. The heat causes the area around the spacer to expand and not the spacer itself. Of course the spacer will heat up, just not as hot as the area with the direct heat.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gravy)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'>All you gotta do to take the axel out is use a pop out tool and make sure that nothing is in the way of its release. I never had to unbolt any of the stuff talked about above. I usually jack up the car and loosen the bolts holding the lateral arm to the frame, unbolt axle and use prybar to pull it out. 10 minutes tops 20 min for both sides.</div>
Wow 20 mins! It took me 8hrs to get them both out.</div>
Dont feel bad man, I couldnt get my auto axles out, I just cut the boots since I had replacements from Raxle.com Even with the trans out, I only was able to get one of the boots out. With my new axles, they come out easy though.
For the spacer from my understanding, you heat up the area around the spacer and not the spacer it self. The heat causes the area around the spacer to expand and not the spacer itself. Of course the spacer will heat up, just not as hot as the area with the direct heat.</div>
yeah you can get a ready to go torch kit at lowes for 8 bucks comes with propane, you just need somethign to ignite it with
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gravy)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well havent update in awhile. Ive been busy and only able to work on the G for a small amount of time. I've done pretty much about evething I can do at this point. Right now removing the spacer is the problem, even with a torch it still wont come out. My question is this, does the spacer screw out out? and wouldnt heating it up make the metal expand thus making it harder to remove? Someone please shed some light on this</div>
i used the pilot bearing tool removal.....it looks like a reverse claw...the hadle turns to make the claw open up....then connect the reverse hammer that came with it.....works like a dream.....i highly recomend it....just go to autozone and rent it....just make sure that you dont open the claw to much since when i did it, the claw broke but then they put any tools rented with a waranty....
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Well I did some search on how to get out the spacer and found this
[quote=seth98esT]
NEXT remove the torque converter and there is a little spacer that needs to be removed before the flypate can be installed. <span style='color:red'>Ive never removed it</span>
so seth did you ever remove it or what? I have a couple more ideas on removing the spacer seeing as how 18min under the torch did nothing.
Kinda sad how Im STILL working on this isnt it https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif
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pilot bearing removal tool works man...
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(da1085)</div><div class='quotemain'>pilot bearing removal tool works man...</div>
See the thing is... I tried that already, the ends on it didnt even fit into the middle hole. An autozone doesnt have another one.
What if I tried cutting it out?
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I dont think te one I had looked like that..heres a pic of it
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/18800/18730.JPG
This is the new one i rented but it still doesnt fit behind the spacer.
http://partners.drivewerks.com/catal...3/OLD-2537.jpg
Thats not the exact one but it looks very similar
So my problem is there doesnt seem to be enough room behind the spacer for the thing to get behind and pull it out
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(gravy)</div><div class='quotemain'>I dont think te one I had looked like that..heres a pic of it
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/18800/18730.JPG
</div>
thats the one i use.....i bearly opend it but make sure you have it all the way to the back of the spacer......the spacer and the block has a little gap at the back.....i hammered the tool in at an angle.....then usd a wrench to open the tool up.....then just use the reverse hammer.....if that doesn't work, heat it up....heat up the spacer then repeat the steps i told you.....it worked like a charm for me....the tool doesn't have to be open the whole way, just enough to make friction with the spacer and enough so the tool wont come off....
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Well at this point in time ive ran out of ideas. Everything I have tried has failed and its been a week with no progress. So can someone tell me <span style='color:darkred'>why cutting it out would be a bad idea.</span>
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did you try fitting the flywheel on in spite of the pilot?
if it clears it, then i woudln't worry about it.
i mean i'd give it one last shot
but if not, definatly jsut see if the flywheel clears the pilot.
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Ok so it doesnt fit. So there is absolutly nothing wrong with cutting it out?
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Not to sound dumb (but I probably will anyway) can someone link me to the thread with the 5-speed swap information?
Having trouble finding it, and distracted working on resume and other crap