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i read somewhere that on the DOHC version the is this one bolt that isnt there that is there on the SOHC. check for possible rubbing issues. im sure if it was the hood you would see a wear mark on the hood as well. take your time inspecting all of this
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Don't drive your car w/o a flawless cover. It is a zero tolerance engine why risk it. I had a small chunk out of my cover and 3 weeks after replacing the belt it turned to spaghetti because of a little 1/4 inch piece of gravel getting in there and one part of the belt looked just like yours. 300 plus dollars down the drain for not waiting and buying a cheap cover. Look at every valley in the gears and see if there is anything lodged in there or a fractured/rough tooth.
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the only bolt i can see that wold possibly be a issue. is one of the bolts that comes up through the oil pan on the timing belt side but i checked and its not even close.
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Make sure the lower cover isn't rubbing or the crank angle sensorwire bracket which you can remove the crank angle sensor stuff to get it out of the way
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i checked the lower cover no signs of wear, checked all pulley and what not and they are all tight and stuff. i doubt something fell in there because i could here a ticking noise that kinda sounded like a lifter/injector while it was running so something is rubbing. god just doesnt want me to get this done lol oh and i brought the belt back they warranted it out and they ordered me the wrong one again go figure.
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so i found where the belt is rubbing. its rubbing right under the oil pump sprocket. right on the case. so one of two options either when i let the tensioner out i didnt do it right or i didnt have the belt on there correct.
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well let me know how everything works out. glad i could help
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so figured out tday my timing tensioner is garbage when i put a wrench on the pulley and put pressure on the belt and release the tensioner it only goes up so far so the belt is still loose causing it to slap on the case right bye the oil pump. so once again i have to order a new tensioner with money i dont even have. i wish things would have went better and im not one to give up but if i get a new tensioner and i run into one more problem its bye bye galant and its going to the scrap yard unless somebody wants it im literally done with dsms it takes over ur life!!!!!!
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you should be able to preset the belt tension with the pulley next to water pump and that alone should take up all slack. The lower hydraulic tensioner keeps it snug as the belt wears, heat, cold etc. When you loosen center bolt on tensioner pulley and then use the special tool (I use a small pair of angled needle nose pliers) in the two little holes it then loosens or tightens the belt depending on how far you rotate it on its eccentric/cam. After that you simply tighten the center bolt, make sure belt is still tight and finally release the pin from the hydraulic tensioner.
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got the car running again today did everything what i was suppose to. now the car wants to run best with the cas all the way to the left so im thinking now timing is to advanced. wtf am i doing wrong or is the the ignition timing just causing this. and now i dont think my balance shafts are right because its virbrating really bad.
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you really need to set the cas with a timing light. Also make sure that you have invert cas signal selected on your ecu this will cause issues with how it idles for sure. What are your afrs at now that you adjusted it i think that i may play with my timing a bit to see if i can get my afr's down some this weekend
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so today i was playing around tday trying to get shit to work and and on my scantool i seen my timing was at 61 degrees before i started the car. isnt it suppose to be at like 5 degrees.
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got the car timed right finally and its running but guess what another issue arrised. so as i drive the car it runs good then it starts missing and throws a code for a map sensor. as soon as i clear the code it runs good, any ideas.
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What ECU are you using? Sounds like the random misfire that plagues a lot of 1g in a 2g swaps.
I had it with my 6bolt 4g63 and 2g ECU back in the day, I did the potentiometer fix and it eventually went away for good.
Page 10:
http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-cont...02/1gina2g.pdf
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using a 98 flashable ecu, cant i actually just wire in a map sensor cuz i dont have one right now and if not cant i just flash the ecu.
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The 2g MAP or MDP(Manifold difference pressure) sensor's only function is to check the function of the EGR.
Can you pull the codes off the ECU and see which errors it is tossing?
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ya i can. For sure it said map sensor ill go check them all tomorow and post every code.
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ok here we go: p1400,p0443,p0446,p0403,p1104,p1105,p0300,p1400,p0 446,p1400,p0446,p0403,p1104,p1105,p0300, them are the codes in the ordere i took them off the scantool. now say i am plagued with the random misfire situation cant i just use my stock 2g crank sensor and not use a simulated crank sensor from the cas?
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anybody im sick of searching i cant figure it out.
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cumon guys what am i doing wrong?