do you need the knuvkle from the EVO also if you ran the EVO 6-speed FWD?
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do you need the knuvkle from the EVO also if you ran the EVO 6-speed FWD?
any time your using an EVO trans you need EVO axles and EVO axles need EVO hubs and EVO hubs need EVO knuckles, and so fourth. The EVO 6 speed trans is JUNK thats why so many MR guys swap back to 5 speed, the 6 speed stuff is expensive, its weak, there arent as many readily available parts, nobody really builds them up.
^good info......
we always learn something new everyday...!!!
well if youre only going for 300 hp, the 6speed is just fine. It seems the people who break the 6 speeds are also racing heavily or have high hp
at the same time if your only going for 300hp the eclipse 5 speed trans is fine with an LSD. No sense in spending a TON of money doing an EVO trans swap when you dont need that much strength in the trans. The gearing in the EVO trans is also meant for rally/road racing on a high revving engine. The 7,000 RPM redline of a stock 4G64 motor sucks for top end in a trans with such low end gearing, you would likely need to shift into 3rd before you even got to 65 mph under heavy acceleration.
I'm not planning to have a lot of power. maybe 400whp at most. I'm also setting the car up for road racing with the possibility of an EVO swap. Is it really THAT weak??
I'm using the stock 4G64 trans for the stock 4G64, until I blow it up atleast. Then I'll probably opt for the EVO IX MIVEC 4G63T with the MR 6-speed.
Are the knuckles/hub/etc. a bolt on affair? or do I have to fabricate anything?
The knuckles fit into the strut but you have to bend open the strut a little since the Evo knuckle is about 1/8" wider up top. I'm not sure how much cutting is involved in making a 6 speed trans fit, I had to do a fair amount of cutting/shimming to make the evo 5 speed trans fit.
the cuts I have made are really to non-structural areas of the subframe, in the long term, if I ever do the AWD conversion im going to have a tubular front subframe fabricated. It will not only save weight but it will allow things to be mounted clean and correctly, while still maintaining proper strength.
any updates cali??
Oooo no...i've got two cars to finish before i even continue working on the galant.
jeez! in deep!
i just read the entire club3g tut on the awd swap... so i gotta ask... any updates lol
i second that question... i recently joined this forum and have been reading quite a bit because i'm about to jump headfirst into a full 8g vr4 clone build myself. i am relatively active on a couple of other lancer/evo forums and know the value of the search button, but I have yet to find out for sure, was that a 2g rear subframe or evo 8/9 that you are using? maybe i just haven't looked hard enough yet tho. i realize the 2g would be much more likely to direct bolt-in versus the evo style, but then stewi started talking about evo part matching and i'm all confused. lol. thanks.
edit: i also realize this thread is over a year old since the last update, and more clues may be found by reading everything that's been posted since, but i haven't gotten that far yet and i'm half awake as i type this
I'm pretty sure, wait, lol I'm positive its from a 2g... i believe the evo parts you need are the tranny, knuckles, transfer case, and a couple other things i can't remember off the top of my head, hopefully someone chimes in with all the answers... or some lol
you use a 2g Auto Awd rear,axles t-case and all,gas tank etc.....with evo front parts tranny axles hubs knuckles..as stewi mentioned..if im not mistaken evo rear end does not bolt on...although the 2g manual does its t-case uses a diff ratio which you can't use on the evo transmission but Auto is a perfect match
I thought the gas tank was a JDM 8th Gen Galant tank not an eclipse?
just had that sittin around huh. lol
ooooh
well at least something is happening to it