Yay[emoji58] http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...7a9fef1c0f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...a7c16f5013.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...b38211b3cf.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ca9757b35b.jpg
Printable View
Needs cleaning. Valves need to come out http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ea3c6cd266.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...607ac339c1.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...8ee4e2cc1f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...5e41cb932a.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...0af7c5c16c.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...617b33f726.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...18e6bb7503.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ea230facc9.jpg
Wow that is a lot of rust! Get that b cleaned asap!
Use CLR for the rust.
All cam caps are labeled already (pay attention). Just label the rockers.
Trash the stock lifters and get new 3mm lifters.
Place a socket and 1/2'' extension over the spring and hit it good with a hammer. The keepers should slip out.
Use pliers to pull the valve seals. Keep track of the valves
Yeah... that all seems like a lot to me. Especially the parts cost, and the rear main seal labor...
For reference: when I had my clutch, flywheel, pilot - throw out bearings AND rear main seal replaced the total labor was only 350
I bought my clutch, flywheel, pilot - throw out bearings separate and the shop had to buy the main seal.
total cost for everything was like $600
Edit: Also there is no oil pan gasket, Fel-Pro makes a cork one but I think but its trash IIRC. Mitsubishi used Mitsubond from the factory sooo idk what else to say about that.
Yeah im pretty sure you would notice if all your mounts were bad, and he only listed 3 lol shit I had one that was bad forever and it annoyed the shit out of me until i fixed it.
Little Update on the Head Swap.
"Did you do it yet Jon?!" Nope, just collecting more parts.
-Removed the valves and none are bent.
-Will replace the valve seals soon
-Measured the deck and cannot fit a .02 feeler anywhere so it's flat?
-Cleaned it up a little bit more
Parts Needed (That I know of)
-Timing Belt
-Crankshaft Position Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-Thermostat
-Timing Belt covers (Looking at one ATM)
-Bolts & Screws I'm missing or forgot to grab [emoji34]
-Head bolts
Once I get what I mentioned and some other bits I can probably get this is by the end of the month :D
you can use the 3G knock sensor, its pretty much like the 2G one.
I think I have a spare knock sensor as well as both cam and crank sensors. I have a stock GS head gasket and get yourself some ARP head studs. Message me on FB please.
I thought you wanted to keep the GS gasket ;) lol
I'll msg you tomorrow (y)
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8ec9fa1a5e.jpg
Thinking of going ARP head studs. This project keeps hurting my wallet lol http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...25b2db47f4.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...0b15bd2e6f.jpg
Can it go in now?
No... clean it :D
Getting closer...
-Get a valve job
-1G CAS (Or a replacement crankshaft position sensor)
-^1G to 2G adaptor
-Knock Sensor
I'm gonna go to a J-Yard to find a 1g CAS, a knock sensor, and some bolts I'm missing
dont forget the piggytail for the 1g cas.
lap the valves and be done with it.
you already have the 7g gs cam sensor, just cut a crank sensor piggytail from any 8g.
get a knock sensor from a V6 8g or 3g. It sits under the intake manifold right in the middle of the V
Head swap will probably be delayed until the summer. I currently have all the parts to do it but not the time. I'm going back to school next week and won't have as much time to work on it.
At the same time I can look into rebuilding the bottom end a little as well. 300k+ Miles with the same engine that has not been touched!
Probably look into replacing rings or go all out if I ever go boost within the next year of swapping.
Summer Plan
-Head Swap
-Trans Swap (If I find one)
- Work on bottom end
-Boost???