Getting rid of distributor and running coil packs
Part of this tutorial were taken from JIP's tutorial to save me from getting carpal tunnel...lol
I used parts from a 2.4 Eclipse Spyder and 97-99 Eclipse Turbo
Major parts needed (new or used):
Camshaft cylinder (md330061)
Camshaft support (md330052)
Cam angle sensor (md327107)
Power Transistor
2g Knock Sensor
450cc injectors from a 1g or 2g
Resistor pack for injectors
2 Coil Packs
2G Eclipse Turbo ECU
ECU Pins from a donor ecu harness to install new wires, and plenty of wire for new connections. *And the assortment of normal tools to remove bolts, few shop rags, soldering iron, etc..
All connectors if you can get them from the scrap yard.
Now Let the fun begin.
Properly relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump connector under the back seat and crank the engine and let it run until it dies which should only take a few seconds if it even starts at all. *Turn the car off, and plug the fuel pump connector back in. *This is the last time you will crank the car until we are done.
You have 2 choices with the wiring, you could buy matching connectors from a junkyard and splice those in, or you can solder wires directly to the pins of the power transistor, extend the wires of the coilpack and knock sensor, resistor pack etc... *When I say good amount of slack don't be stingy! *Leave at least 6" more wire then you need. *Read through everything first before you do it.
1) *Start with the knock sensor install. *Behind cylinder 2 on the engine block there are 2 spaces where you could screw in the knock sensor, choose the one closer to the top. *Its a really bad area and really hard to do with the intake manifold there. *I suggest removing the intake manifold bracket and then you can stick your whole arm behind the intake manifold and screw in the sensor. *Its a weird size so you'll have to find a wrench that fits, I used a good old plumbers slide wrench. *DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT. *Get it snug I'm talking like 3ft lbs of torque, just a tad more then finger tight. *It may be a bitch to get it in if the threads in the block are all rusty so do your best.
Now grab the connector and cut it off and lengthen the black wire enough so that you can bolt it down to the firewall or any good ground point. *USING SHIELDED WIRE lengthen the red (or white) wire, ground the shielding on it and bring the wire into the car through the same large rubber grommet the main harness comes through. *Use a screw driver or something to poke a hole in the rubber and feed the wire through. *Make sure your connections are good, solder is the best idea, and use lots of tape to weather proof them. *The wire should be long enough to reach the ECU with a good amount of extra slack. *Label that wire we'll go back to it later.
*This would also be a good time to run another wire with it and mark it inside the car as pin 23....it goes to the power transistor.
2) * Take any ignition switched power line, they are almost always a BLACK/WHITE STRIPE wire, I used one straight from the ignition switch, tap it and run the wire to the ECU with a good amount of slack. *This will be the "turn on" power supply for the ECU. *Make sure it is ignition switched power NOT ACCESSORY. *The wire must stay 12v while cranking, ACC wire gets ground during crank which would turn your ECU off thus you would never be able to start your car. *Label it and leave it.
3) *Remove the old ECU and remove the plugs from the ECU, remove the plug from the smaller box under the ECU (fuel controller), remove the little clip on on the firewall that holds the main harness strapped in this will give you more slack in the harness to make life easier. *To remove or install a pin into the ECU connectors you need a safety pin or small flat headed jewelers screw driver. *Pop up the white strip, then you stick the safety pin into the front of the harness and have to pry up a lil plastic tab, while doing this pull the wire out and it slides right out. *To install a pin, just slide the pin in. *When your done push the white strips back down that locks everything in place.
Using this diagram do the following:
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5...rness2gyp9.gif
* Move White wire Pin 31 to pin 58. *This is the Tach signal wire.
* Take the Knock sensor wire that you ran and crimp on a small ECU pin and install that wire in location 78
* Take the ignition signal wire crimp a large ECU pin to it and install it to pin 82.
* Take a wire crimp a small connector to it and install in location 23.
Take the 4g64 ECU and remove the cover, then remove the 4 screws holding down the circuit board. Do the same to the 2g ECU. *Place the 2g ECU circuit board onto the old metal bottom from the 4g64 and screw it down. *But use the cover from the 2g ECU over it. *The reason is that the 4g64 mounting bracket is different, so we need the bottom piece of the 4g64 ECU case to keep the same mounting location, but we want the cover that came with the ECU so that anyone who works on the car has the proper part numbers.
Reinstall the fuel controller connector and the ECU connecters to the NEW 2g ECU. *You can put it back in place but probably better to leave it out until your sure things are working smooth.
Go under the hood and REMOVE the connectors to the distributor and the 2 wire connector for the coil (next to the distributor connector). *Now turn the key to ON DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE, JUST TURN TO ON POSITION *Pay attention to the dash lights. *The battery light, Check engine light, SRS lights come on and should all turn off after a few seconds. *If the check engine light NEVER illuminates when the key turns to ON then the ECU is not getting power at pin 82 (ignition wire) check the voltage on that line, if it reads 12v then your ECU is probably busted. *If everything checks out, turn it off and take the key out so no one accidentally starts it.
Now the rest of the work is in the engine bay the ECU side is done.
CAS wiring:
Pin 1: 12volts - Black/red at dist (5 pin plug)
Pin 2: Signal wire - Brown/green at dist (5pin plug)
Pin 3: Ground - Black wire at dist (5 pin plug)
Power Trans Wiring:
Pin 1 and 8: Coil Pack Outputs
Pin 2: Pin 23 (2g ECU)
Pin 3: Ground - Black wire at dist. (5 pin plug)
Pin 4: White Wire at distributor (2 pin plug) - tach signal (Pin 58-2g ECU this wire is moved from Pin 31 on 7g)
Pin 6: Black/white wire at distributor (2 pin plug) - 12volts - also goes to coil packs
Pin 7: White wire at distributor (5 pin plug)
Knock Sensor:
Signal: To Pin 78 (2g ecu)
ECU:
ECU power: Tap an ignition signal wire and run to pin 82
ISC:
I just unplugged mine. Idles fine without it.
The wiring is almost done.
Remove the distributor and set it aside.....you don't need it anymore (unless you screw something up)
You have to grind a little off the cas cylinder to get it to fit into the end of the cam.....its a little larger than the one on the distributor. Trial and error...hopefully no error.
Next, drilled the end of the cam. Make sure if you are doing this to stuff shop rags into the slots in the head just at the end of the cam to prevent any shavings getting into the oil. I did it in 2 steps, then tapped it with a 5/16 tap since we had plenty of different lengths at the shop. Now make sure you get the offset right and bolt the cylinder to the cam using a lock washer under the head of the bolt.
Bolt on the camshaft support and install the cam sensor in the support.
Fuel injectors. This part gets a little messy and dangerous.
Start by removing the connectors on the injectors. *Cut the Black/Red stripe wires on all 4 of them leaving enough on both sides to reconnect to other wires. *Take your resistor pack mount it somewhere on the firewall. *Take the single RED or WHITE wire lengthen it and connect all 4 of the Black/Red wires from the ECU side to this wire. *Take the remaining Black/Red wires coming out of the injector harness's and connect each to a separate wire from the resistor pack.
Now remove the bolts holding the fuel rail down and pull it out of the engine, there is enough slack in fuel lines to be able to pull the rail up and twist it up to remove the injectors without removing the fuel lines. *Lay down shop towels under the rail because when you remove the injectors fuel will spill out. *Pull out all 4 injectors and install the new 450cc injectors with NEW o-rings. *Once in place put the fuel rail back in the engine and bolt it down, and finally reconnect the injector harness's.
I had to rewire the fuel pump...some do, some don't. Tap the same ignition wire that you have to run to pin 82 on the 2g ecu, and use that for the signal to trigger the relay. Then proceeded with the rewire as usual.
This is the tricky part, the ignition coil wires from the coilpack to the spark plugs basically have to figure out their order by trial and error. *There are 2 coils each coil has 2 posts to accept 2 wires. *Connect the wire for spark plugs 1 and 4 to one coil, and 2 and 3 to the other coil. *Now go try to start the car. *If it starts up great, if it sounds like its not even attempting to start, then go back and swap the coils around. *The wires you have on 1 coil move them to the other. still keeping 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together just on opposite coils from before.
Start the car. If it doesn't start, check for power at the fuel pump. If no power, you MUST do the rewire.
I didn't get any immediate CEL, but once i gave it some gas, it came on. I got 2. One for the fuel pressure solenoid (P1105), and one for the boost solenoid (P1104). If you get these codes, there is a fix other than getting the solenoids. go to radio shack and get a package of (2) 50 ohm, 10 watt resistors. Tap into the power wire you ran to pin 82 and wire it into one side of each resistor. Then run a wire from the other end of one resistor to pin 3 and the end of the other resistor to pin 11 of the ecu.
Re: Getting rid of distributor and running coil packs
Anyone else sucessfully done this?
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