Replacing Inner Outer tie rods, step by step/pictures

I did not want to remove the steering rack to replace the inner tie rods or pay the dealer $500 to replace the tie rod ends.

I was looking to see if I wanted tp try to save a few hundred bucks by replacing my inner tie rod ends myself. I couldn't find any info so here we go....

Vehicle: 99 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ with 180K miles

Time for right side is 1.5 hours, left side is 45 min.

Most pictures from one side, there are some photos mixed in from the other side.

The only special tool was a $5 modified crows foot wrench, that I grinded down to fit the inner tie rod. Size 1-1/4" crows foot wrench.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/8...2454na2.th.jpg http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/4...2458ar0.th.jpg

Rewrite in the workz?

Here's the job

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/7403/dsc02476cj7.jpg

Remove retainer clip ; softly pry boot lip loose ; pull forward delicately (DO NOT BREAK THIS BOOT)
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4...2477zn5.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5...2478ed1.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/1...2502bl8.th.jpg

There's a band that needs pried off the inner tie rod boot. This illustrates how to pry it off. While its on the car, I had to feel for it with my fingers, and guide the screwdriver into the loop to loosen, before pulling the boot off.

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/7...2489dz8.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4...2490dl3.th.jpg

The long skinny screwdriver from Sears 19 pcs set
I used this exact screwdriver! Proved particularly useful, fits perfectly into the compression ring. Also used for other things. Invaluable tool.

Now use the long screw driver to pound out the retainer ring in the back of the inner tie rod. Its a pretty maleable, so a lighter firm tapping will unbend it. There's a top and bottom, so you have to do this twice. You can turn your steering wheel to gain further access.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9930/dsc02479ib5.jpg

Here's my foot and bent retainer ring
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5...2506xf8.th.jpg

With crows foot, unscrew(counterclockwise)
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5166/dsc02480rb6.jpg

View of other side ; I used steering arm for leverage ; a long bar helped a lot!
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/8...2503ex2.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/3...2504vb2.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/8...2505vh5.th.jpg

See how the lock washer is bent
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5...2481dt3.th.jpg

Getting the ball joint out is relatively easy, pound really hard a few times with hammer, don't hit your fender!
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/1...2482es7.th.jpg http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9...2485sc6.th.jpg

@#%&*!
Compare parts. This is where I previously got a wrong part, delaying my repair for a week waiting for correct part to be shipped. Advance auto 99 tie rod arm($20) was shorter; 00 is longer($60) which is shown below. I got it through the mail for less.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/8091/dsc02486xz0.jpg

Measure the lenght of the old tie rod, the new parts should closely match this length to maintain alignment. My new outer tie rod is sized differently so I can't use the nut to measure length.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/1842/dsc02487lf8.jpg

To remove the boot I cut the old tie rod with a grinder.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4606/dsc02488mz1.jpg

@#%&* again!
New tie rod is a different size ; I had to grind down the new part, I still need the crows foot for the other side.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4...2491fh1.th.jpg http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/5...2492qn4.th.jpg http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/9...2493zh4.th.jpg

Ready for installation!
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/5438/dsc02494ls9.jpg

Install the new lock washer with tabs pointing upward, the tabs lock into slots on the rack-n-pinion. We're almost done!
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9...2495me3.th.jpg http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2...2496cw0.th.jpg http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2...2498po5.th.jpg

Access is difficult, turn steering wheel accordingly so you can get the right angle to hammer down the lock washer over the flat part of the inner tie rod from underneath the vehicle with the long screwdriver(red arrow). I am able to do only one side because access to the other side is impossible.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5128/dsc02499kq0.jpg

Then I installed the boot and reused the old retainer ring, you could use a large hose clamp from Lowe's. See how difficult access is?
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9643/dsc02500pw1.jpg

The outer tie rod is straight forward. Tighten nut and install cotter pin.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3631/dsc02501vi1.jpg

Elapsed time is 1.5 hours, the other side took half the time.

Wasn't so bad, now I can use the saved money for something else!

I replaced my broken sway bar links as well, I had to grind the old ones off, and the new ones installed pretty easily.

Tips: You can do this yourself. Makes sure you have the right parts before you start, craw under the car with the new part and compare them. You might need another sized crows foot wrench for your new part.

I test drove the car and it never felt so smooth and vibration free and no more funky rattling!

I hope this helps people out.

very good tutorial.....lol i got the same set of tie rods....didn't have to modify the crows wrench but then again I have an 02....tie rod separator is helpful...lock washer is really tough theres really not that much of space in there...use the large hose clamps way easier then the original retainer bands... 8)

Hey guys, I recently bought a set of inner/outer Tie rods. So far by reading this tut, it seems fairly easy although I got one concern. For the inner tie rod, the edge of the side that connects to the car, is a huge square.

As mentioned in this tutorial, the crow's foot wrench is used for this, but man is it hard to find in my local auto stores. If I cant find it locally, i may have to get it online, which im trying to avoid.

Is there another alternative to the crowfoot wrench?
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1069/...a02c48ed08.jpg

Thanks for the tutorial. I just did this and it wasn't too bad at all. i got my crow's foot online at amazon I think. Thanks again!

there is a inner tie rod remover tool to that is made for replacing inner tie rods.you can get the tool at advance auto parts and ebay has them too.also one important step when replacing the tie rods is to make sure the wheel is straight,and count the threads on the tie rod to get the alignment close to what it was.

Even if you count the threads you'll still need to go to an alignment shop and get it aligned. Most aftermarket tie rods dont have the same amount of threads as the factory ones so even counting them, you still wont have the toe right.

dope tutorial man, where did you get your endlinks ? one of mine is broken and I want to get that replaced as soon as possible

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dope tutorial man, where did you get your endlinks ? one of mine is broken and I want to get that replaced as soon as possible

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I got my set from rock auto. I forgt to take A pict of the stock next to the moogs. Butt the moogs are almost twice teh thickness of the stockers

Sent from my PD_Novel using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mrg7243

I got my set from rock auto. I forgt to take A pict of the stock next to the moogs. Butt the moogs are almost twice teh thickness of the stockers

Sent from my PD_Novel using Tapatalk

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Would the thickness work with my GTZ bar then ? how much did they run you if you don't mind me asking

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Originally Posted by Fenix22

Even if you count the threads you'll still need to go to an alignment shop and get it aligned. Most aftermarket tie rods dont have the same amount of threads as the factory ones so even counting them, you still wont have the toe right.

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yeah no doubt about that,but it at least will be closer then if you didnt count the threads.as long as when the steering wheel is straight the tires are straight it wont be to far off.

i need to do both sides...anyone local in socal wanna make a few extra bucks?

Im bumping this thread so i can find it later...