2000 galant v6 3.0 egr/emission help.

Don't read this I'm an idiot. Read for entertainment purposes. Continue on further in the posts for my real problem...... :)
Hello.. I just got the above said galant for a very good price granted it needs some work but the only thing that I can't seem to figure out is the egr system. It seems like you need a rocket scientist to figure it out. I went to autozone to read the check engine light and he said it was the code for the egr and of course sold me an egr valve. After removing the old one it seemed to work okay but I put in the new one anyway figuring what the heck.
Three days later the check engine light is still on. They said if the computer detects that there is no problems over time the light would go out. Just like it takes time for the error to be there before the light comes on.
So after inspecting the vac hoses there seemed to be no vac at the egr valve at idol or revving the engine. The vac that goes to the egr comes from some round thingy and also branches down to something else. There was some vac at the round thingy, I removed it and attempted to blow and or suck through the inputs and it seems to work, didn't leak, though I don't quite know what it is for.
After searching around I found a site that said you could tweak the computer by adding a resistor inside so the computer will go to federal standards (which will ignore the egr) instead of CA standards but I think it was for a mirage. Well I can't find the site again but didn't know if it would work for the galant anyway. I'd have to pull the computer and compare it to the pics. AND I don't know if the state inspection place would pick up on it.
If anyone has some kind of diagram of the egr system with component descriptions would be helpfull. Diagnostic help would be better.
I also found another site with someone else that had what seemed to be the same problem but after reading all the posts at the end he gave up and sold the car.
I am good with mechanical and electrical stuff I have a meter and if needed I could dig out my 1964 tube type o-scope. But I need to know what to look for.
Thanks in advance.

Ignore this post I was an idiot when I wrote it last year. Now that I know that the egr ports were clogged. Please read on to MY next post..

if you can get me the code# i can get you a proper mitsu diagnosis sequence and get you in the right direction before you unnecessarily throw any more parts at it

Time passes and my inspection sticker is almost due. The last information I had gathered from here suggested that the egr ports were clogged on my 2000 Galant 3.0. Of course I wait till the last minute, anyway.
Today I disassembled the intake, removing every bolt labeling it and where it came from, hoses etc. Brought the intake to a machine shop to be chemically cleaned, when done the fellow did say that there was a lot of 'mud' he removed from the egr ports. While I waited for the intake to be done I used carb cleaner to clean the intake ports on the engine, cleaned the pvc hose and the little pvc ports that go into the intake, replaced the pcv valve and because 3 of the spark plugs were under the intake I replaced them all (NGK BKR6E-11 (2756) numbers off of the package). Also found that I guess someone attempted to replace the plugs before, the 3 under the intake were a different model number (NGK PFR6G-11) than the 3 in the front that are easy to get to (NGK BKR6ES-11). Also the gap in the front ones was about .045-046 the ones under the manifold were .044. The ones I put in were .044. I also cleaned the faces and got a new gasket between the manifold I just got cleaned and the engine. After reassembly, everything went back together fine (disconnected the battery also). THE CAR WON'T START! Cranks over and when I let the key go I get a couple of puff, puffs 2 sometimes 3 (the sound, not smoke).
So, can anyone tell me what I messed up? Did the carb spray I sprayed into the intakes mess anything up? It was about 1-2 hrs before I got the intake back so I assumed the cleaner had evaporated by then. The oil is at the minimum level because I have been driving like a maniac lately but I never had oil problems before, will fill tomorrow, could the carb cleaner have gotten into the oil? The only other thing I can think of is the plug wires, they were a little tough to remove and I suppose I could have not seated them properly. Obviously I have to take everything apart again tomorrow to see what's wrong but I thought maybe after reading this someone might come up with a duh you did this wrong comment before I did that.
Thanks for reading and any help you can offer!

You need to check that everything was plugged in correctly and where it belongs. While you were there did you get new wires? Check fuses. Check for spark and fuel.

I did not get new plug wires. The car ran fine before I took it apart. I never disconnected any wires or connectors except the grounds that were attached to the the manifold just removed the components. Never turned on the car while I was working on it.

shit, sorry I didn't see this sooner! post up a picture if you can.

Here is the emissions diagram:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...onsDiagram.jpg

Thank you for the diagram! There's a few other things I didn't realize were in the egr loop. Once I get it running and still have a problem (code) it will be invaluable. But it does not help exactly with my not starting problem I am having now... Though I am leaning to the plug wires at this time, they are five inches long to plug into the spark plug and I suppose I might have missed the plug(s) when I put them back on and I don't know how fragile the wires are, like I said they were a little tough to remove plus some of them had oil on them at the top inside, I don't know if that's normal, there seems to be a slight space between the outer housing and the inner housing of where the top of the wires plug in. I don't know if I described that properly. When you pull the wire, the inner part has a bulge around it at the top, that seems to seal the outer metal cover to an inner metal cover. Also I don't know if the cleaning process I took screwed anything up (with the carb cleaner)..

1. Get new plug wires.
2. New valve cover gaskets and tube seals (oil on plug wire)
3.cap and rotor since you're already there.

Apparently your not reading everything on my posts oakrdrs187 :075: . For one there's no cap and rotor on newer cars. Second I already stated I have replaced the plugs.

Apparently you don't know what you're doing if you're coming back with that kind of response.

FYI, there is a cap and rotor. follow the wires to it. its very simple to find. I suggest replacing the wires while you're at it. and double check all of your vacuum hoses.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lobsterman72

Apparently your not reading everything on my posts oakrdrs187 :075: . For one there's no cap and rotor on newer cars.

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I'm such an idiot, APPARENTLY I forgot the 6g72 delivered spark on the drivers hopes and dreams.:120:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lobsterman72

Second I already stated I have replaced the plugs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oakrdrs187

1. Get new plug wires.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by lobsterman72

I did not get new plug wires.

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Apparently your not reading everything on MY posts Lobsterman



Oh and BTW there was no need to start another thread...

Of course I don't know exactly what i'm doing that's why I am asking here. That's why we're all here. Typically in newer cars I thought coil packs replaced the whole cap and rotor. But that's not here nor there anymore because it runs now for some bizzare reason. But I still have a code P0400 and P0141 as you saw in that newer thread...
And I started a new thread because this one I started one year ago and I figured I would start over. Aside from me rambling on in my first post about nothing....

Get a newer egr valve, you may have goofed it up.

you're sure you didn't unplug any electrical connections? I left the Crank Position Sensor unplugged once by accident, and the start would turn over and over but the engine would never actually start.

Okay, 2000 Galant, 3.0. I thought I would recap and restart all this one more time to help make things maybe a little clearer for anyone that reads this post for the first time because I started it 1 year ago and aside from replacing the egr valve and the solenoid I haven't done anything else aside from an oil change.
I bought the car on the cheap. Had check engine light on. Yeah, I know, stupid idiot. Anyway. Autozone gave me the egr code (P0400), I replaced the egr valve, no joy, then at the free advise of a local mechanic, he suggested that the solenoid could be bad. After replacing the solenoid the check engine light did not go ON till I somehow skated past the state inspection. When I restarted the car and left the inspection place the light came on, ~10 miles to the inspection place and 3-4 restarts. So because I had no need to address it I did nothing.
Now I need to address it. Two days ago I brought the intake to a machine shop and they chemically cleaned it, the egr ports were full of junk. I assume you read my previous posts. But I will reiterate. Two days ago had the intake cleaned, I cleaned the ports on the engine (with carb cleaner), I cleaned the pvc ports, new pvc valve, new plugs only because 3 of them were different than the other 3 under the manifold (ngk BKR6E-11), new gasket between the intake and engine also disconnected the battery to remove codes and new vac hoses to the fuel regulator because I kinda munged them up taking the intake off..
After reassembly the car wouldn't start. Next day, I go out and try to start the car and it starts after a little coaxing and runs okay, when I turned it off and restarted it the engine light came back on. I also noticed that when I come to a stop it had a problem with the idol (goes to ~500 rpm then goes normal after) but after a few starts and driving that symptom went away.
Then I go to autozone again and they tell me codes P0141 and P0400. Egr and oxy sensor (I assume). I would like to know where exactly this oxy sensor is, after research I believe it's the one on the catalytic converter but I haven't gotten under the car to see it yet, and then there's bank one and bank two and sensor one and sensor two etc. Without any other information I don't know what is what, that's why I'm posting this. And the egr code is honking me off!
I also need to add that a couple of the motor mounts are blown but I don't think that has anything to do with the egr or oxy sensors. I'll fix that later because their very expensive for some reason (big ol' rubber grommet and some steel, tires cost that much).
I'm about to find a lake with a hill close by to roll this pos into. Maybe I shouldn't say that, it's a fast car and nice to look at but still, if it wasn't for emissions I wouldn't have a problem with this car. Thanks for reading and any help you can offer......

Could anyone tell me if in the above diagram the vac hose (egr) that goes to the back of the vehicle is outside under the vehicle, or doe's it run inside then outside?
It's been raining here today and the hurricane is going to hit here sunday, so I haven't been able to work on the car.
I will have tomorrow and maybe saturday before then but I was wondering, the previous owner beat the crap out of this car and I was wondering if they went baha-ing and possibly hit something under the vehicle damaging the vac hose and also the oxygen sensor/wires and that could be my problem. Are they that exposed?

Get full coverage insurance before the storm comes. Lol!! Idk man you have to get under the car and check for broken wires or sensors.

After having another back yard mechanic look at the vehicle. Helped to replace a piece of flex exhaust that was rotted, and the O2 sensor. He was for whatever reason baffled at the egr problem. I was just wondering, I know very new cars will give you a code for the gas cap not being on correctly or defective. Could this code P0400, possibly be because the gas cap on this car is failed? Possibly because this car is before the time when there were sensors to tell you the gas cap failed?:017:

Inspect the timing belt condition. I changed my spark plugs and valve covers one afternoon and that was the end. Wouldn't start. Similar symptoms. POS skipped time and here I am swapping an engine but after replacing a distributor, fuel pump and half of the other engine accessories in a witch hunt trying to figure it out. I went the back yard mechanic rout too before taking it to a shop and then on to have it diagnosed by a Mits master mechanic.

Sometimes the egr goes bad due to carbo deposit on the vacuum lines. That is way is a good idea you use a oil catch can. You could also dissable the egr via ecuflash.

Okay, I figured I'd do what I did last year to pass inspection and get another erg control solenoid pop that in disconnect the battery and then go right to the same place I went last year to get an inspection. I also replaced the throttle body gasket for seemly no reason. I did that today.
Passed inspection, YAY.. And unlike last year the engine light has not gone back on after several starts and some distance driving.
So either I got a bad erg solenoid last time or the throttle body gasket had something to do with it. Or possibly because there was junk in the egr tubes it messed up the previous solenoid, I dunno.. It will probably be a week of the light being off before I have a sigh of relief.
Reference stuff I wanted to include: $30 to chem clean the intake at a machine shop, $50 for the egr control solenoid (Of which you can't find at a lot of part stores).
It takes about an hour or so to remove the intake (esp. if you make diagrams and such so not to misplace bolts and locations) and you only need about 4-5 different sockets to do it. Gasket for between intake and engine $12 (have to buy a set for the one). $3 for the throttle body gasket. Also oxy sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (P0141) is next to the firewall passenger side after the cat. Also my Galant has Cali. emissions (friggin' californians!), Which means that the oxy sensor has a 4 pin connector in the shape of a #4 like on a die. From what I understand the federal emission oxy sensor is flat in a straight row connector, and the cali sensors are more $. The one I got was $80.
Now I need to come up with about $400 for 4 new motor mounts (parts only, expensive *%#'in car), yes it seems you can drive these with all 4 mounts bad.... Remembering my deceased '89 ranger, any part I replaced was $20-25.
Fixing it your self and not paying $77 an hour, priceless :)

glad to see you got it figured out. If you can live with a little more vibration and are willing to get your hands dirty, take a look at doing polyurethane mounts. It only costs $80 on ebay. It took a buddy and I about 3 hours to do all 4 of the mounts.

Okay, everything was working fine for about a month after I replaced the egr control solenoid. Now after it warms up it has a rough idle. And I get the same egr flow error code as before.

I can go under the hood and move the body of the solenoid (it's in a metal bracket like thing) and the car will immediately run fine for a very short time. I thought it was the connector/wires. I cut them back and re wired it but it still does the same thing.

Am I just getting crap solenoids??? The last one worked for 1 week, this one for 1 month. I can't just get them anywhere and the local NAPA auto parts is the only place I've found besides going to a dealer.