My VR4 is a prick, im sure it hates me

I bought a broken down galant, wasnt running at all when purchased, motor is a 6a12tt

I have worked on her for around 2 months, i have replaced all sorts of bits..

The problem is i build no boost (i beleive) and it wont idle past the 6000 mark, it starts bouncing and blowing smoke, Idle was dodgy but i replaced the air flow sensor, and got new piping, i have also replaced the vacume lines,

What in the world would stop a galant from reving right out, i can drive it normally but i dont feel any boost

I have a boost guage and bought the car with all sorts of dodgy crap done, i have been sort it all out, bit by bit

Did you test the engine compression? Don't feel any boost doesn't mean you aren't getting any lol.

Can you take a video of the problems?

Yeah Take a video so we hear the sound it makes.

I'd say do a compression test and start from there. Next would be a Boost leak test. From the sound of it, it either has post MAF leak, or timing is off.

Post MAF leak will throw the tune off by alot and will act as a boost leak where it wouldnt build any or very little boost. You can test if your turbos produce boost by plumbing the MAF at the throttle body and revving the engine. While doing that place your hand on the turbo outlet and see if its pumping air. If that checks out then there's has to be a torn coupler somewhere.

As far as i know the turbo outlets have slip fit outlets with an O-ring (just like a water pump) - that ring could be torn out.

Ill record a video the second noone is home (it blows smoke, a lot of it not solid black or anything, but like the smoke you get when the cars cold, but amplified)

I can rev it up and the bov does it job, it also sucks a lot of air you can feel it sucking when ya have your hand near the maf, I checked the boost and it build upto 6psi, so it does build boost fine

Pretty much it idles at 1500, and revs out anywere between 1500-6500 but sometimes its cuts between 4000-6000

A mitsi mechanic has suggested checking the spark plugs, so the question is, when i change spark plugs, is there something i have forgotten to do? do i need to do something specific to the spark plugs, im just using NGK sparkplugs, and got the ones specifically for my car
Also the intake was leaking, but that was replaced, so was the vacume system but i replaced that two

Also if i spray engine start around the engine and hooses, i hardly get a change

I really want her to run, i got ripped off (by a mechanic as i later found out at a parts store) and paid for a car he said had a broken crank idle sensor, he was talking a load of crap, and i really want to have it running sweet and go boosting past his work.

i know its not the right reason to get her running but afterwards im giving it to the misses for a daily, the 5dr hatch seems to suit her and her child well as soon as she runs

spark plugs should be NGK BPR6ES (single electrode) gapped to 0.028 - 0.030'' (I forget whats in millimeters)

you can unplug the IAC (the plug on bottom of the TB) and adjust the idle with the BISS screw then plug it back and disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes. But it might be having high idle because of a boost leak.

Biss screw location

http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/BISS/BISS-10.jpg

you have to do boost leak test. its just necessary.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T963989F3c0

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...et-tester.html

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Once you have the car idle at around 1k rpms, record the vacuum reading.

The stock boost is set to around 12psi or each turbo outputs 6psi. If you only read 6psi then one of your turbos might be shot which could explain the smoking when you first start the car.

As I suggested before, hook the MAF sensor to the throttle body and put your hand in front of each turbo to verify suction. you have to remove the intake pipes to each turbo to do this

The turbo system is parallel, both turbos push the same pressure just half total flow. And stock psi on 6a13 is 9 psi (computer solenoid control) with 7psi waste gate

Thank you, I was making assumptions based on turboed mitsu engines here.

So he's still losing 3 psi.

I'd take the entire intake system off; every pipe, clamp and hose. Make sure both turbos spin freely and without shaft play. Reinstall it all, make sure all hoses are tight and don't leak. Also make sure the exhaust is tight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trotty

The turbo system is parallel, both turbos push the same pressure just half total flow. And stock psi on 6a13 is 9 psi (computer solenoid control) with 7psi waste gate

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now that I read you post again, and if the WGs have 7psi springs then there shouldnt be a reason why stock boost level would be only 9psi and not 14psi.

One of the first "free" mods DSMers did back in the day was to hook up the boost source nipple directly to the WG actuator, that way it bypasses the solenoid. (it is good for low boost).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Silvertune

I'd take the entire intake system off; every pipe, clamp and hose. Make sure both turbos spin freely and without shaft play. Reinstall it all, make sure all hoses are tight and don't leak. Also make sure the exhaust is tight.

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I second that

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203174158698549

thats what she does

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203174158698549

it really sounds like timing is off by a tooth or so. Look at the manual and see what you can come up with.

Thats an awful lifter tick, jebus its loud.

Does the smoke smell sweet or does it have raw gasoline smell to it? What color is it - white, blue, black?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mko

now that I read you post again, and if the WGs have 7psi springs then there shouldnt be a reason why stock boost level would be only 9psi and not 14psi.

One of the first "free" mods DSMers did back in the day was to hook up the boost source nipple directly to the WG actuator, that way it bypasses the solenoid. (it is good for low boost).

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I think u need to understand how turbos work bud. The solenoid raises boost by bleeding pressure to trick the wastegate into opening later creating more boost/psi. If u bypass the solenoid u run base wastegate pressure of 7psi. And because we have 2 turbos it doesn't make 14 psi. They still only push 7psi

I stand corrected then. Ive never dealt with twin turbo system before. Thanks for the clarification.

So the turbos push 9psi and he reads 6 psi then there's 3 psi drop in intercoolers and piping.

Is it a single solenoid that controls both wastegates via a "T" connector or is it a solenoid for each turbo?

Depends where the wastegate supply line come from. When its fed from the elbow at throttle body u will get full pressure as the turbo is given a signal after all pressure drops. If the wastegate feed is on the turbo outlet then yes u will see less at the intake manifold as u have pressure drop through ic and piping as temp drop. And yes there is only 1 solenoid that has a T price.

smoke is white, i think i have a blown turbo seal to add to the mix of faults!

i have decided to give up on mitsi's, second one i have owned, both have been nightmares, im scraping this one

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SRRTALKALOT

i have decided to give up on mitsi's, second one i have owned, both have been nightmares, im scraping this one

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As someone who cannot aquire a 7g vr4 thats a shame to hear, I would take it in a heartbeat problems and all lol

Sorry it they didn't work out for ya, good luck with whatever route you decide to go!

R you selling it? How much

Sorry to hear, I'm certain once you found the problem, you will love the car you have.

The thing that bothers me is how slow it revs at idle. I do want to think the timing is off by one tooth. It is a timing belt setup correct?

parting it, got it checked over and he said it should be parted befor scraped, its got a full 3inch exhaust, professionally tinted windows, If someone on here in nz wants it, im happy to let them buy it, would need a new motor droped in,

I had the air flow directly onto the intake today, and its still not gona rev up however it reved up faster with the turbos helping it, aswell as a a turbo being seized, i can see why the guy that sold it to me was lieing, he knew it had more problems then stated, he even said he had the turbos off and recondition by a mechanic (himself was what he forget to mention)

also the mechanic that owned it failed to mention that he had bought it broken down, and replaced the clutch, belts, etc all by him self, apprantly he actually had it running, and then it over fueled and compression started to die out, so he decided to open the ignition coil and break it delibertly so it wont start, and sell it has having no spark. and then found some poor sucker on the internet with a report saying it need an ignition coil, gave the story about need cash for a family car, and couldnt afford to fix it, i even paid him a lil more then he wanted

just goes to show scumbags can be found everywhere

sure can, So anyone in New Zealand in desperate need of some galant parts? maybe upgrades, im sure someone would be happy to buy the exhaust, 3inch all the way through, sounds really nice i think

well moved on from the galant, and ended up with another mitsi, well the counciller did say to shoot for the stars

Just read this thread,
Right from the start you can tell the turbo's are toast and the compression is well off. Shame when people rip you off like that, human decency is lacking so much these days.

What did you end up with now?
Also where in NZ are you from?