Input on the Brakes shaking problem

I'm new to this forum so first of all, Hi to everyone. Now to get down to business.
I have had this problem for a long freaking time and finally decided to replace the bushings and the rotors to fix this. One thing that I noticed every time I would change the disk pads is that only the drivers side pads would wear out. (This happen to anyone). I replaced the bushings which was much easier than I thought it would be. Then I replaced the drivers side rotor and didn’t touch the passengers side because I didn’t see anything wrong with it. This fixed the steering wheel vibration that happened when I would hit 60 to 75 on the freeway and temp fixed the brake shaking. 2 weeks later, the brake shaking is back again .
So now I am thinking of also replacing the passengers side disk, getting an alignment and also balancing the tires. I also looked around and saw a post by j686m to try onboard brake lathe done so hopefully one of this options fixes my freaking problem.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

ever try completely bleeding out your system with higher boiling temp brake fluid?
if you are showing uneven padwear, then it may be that you have too much moisture in your lines and the brake force isn't being properly distributed.
my father's diamante had that problem until i flushed about 3 large bottles of valvoline synthetic dot 4 brake fluid into lines. i just led like you are supposed to. attatch a hose to the bleeder nipple, submerge the hose in an inch of clean brake fluid in a clear glass cup, and open the bleeder and continue to pump the pedal until it comes through clean. making sure to of course not let the master resevoir go empty. start with the farthest and work your way to the drivers side. you will be suprised how much fluid you go through until its perfectly clear. once its clear, close the bleeder and work your way to the next line.

brake fluid absorbs moisture and when it does the boiling point drops and it will vaparize sooner. whjen it vaparizes you get brake fade, less clamping force on the rotor, and it will end up taking longer to stop, and you will ften find that the pads don't wear evenly, fom the inside to outside pad, and from the dirvers side to passenger side.

try flushing your brakes with some top quality fluid and see if it changes.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>ever try completely bleeding out your system with higher boiling temp brake fluid?
if you are showing uneven padwear, then it may be that you have too much moisture in your lines and the brake force isn't being properly distributed. Â*
my father's diamante had that problem until i flushed about 3 large bottles of valvoline synthetic dot 4 brake fluid into lines. Â* i just led like you are supposed to. Â*attatch a hose to the bleeder nipple, submerge the hose in an inch of clean brake fluid in a clear glass cup, and open the bleeder and continue to pump the pedal until it comes through clean. Â*making sure to of course not let the master resevoir go empty. Â*start with the farthest and work your way to the drivers side. Â*you will be suprised how much fluid you go through until its perfectly clear. Â*once its clear, close the bleeder and work your way to the next line.

brake fluid absorbs moisture and when it does the boiling point drops and it will vaparize sooner. Â*whjen it vaparizes you get brake fade, less clamping force on the rotor, and it will end up taking longer to stop, and you will ften find that the pads don't wear evenly, fom the inside to outside pad, and from the dirvers side to passenger side.

try flushing your brakes with some top quality fluid and see if it changes.</div>

I'll try that out, Thanks.

Onboard brake lathe doesnt make any different, its just save time in my opinion. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>open the bleeder </div>

how do i open the bleeder...i have slight, unever wear.

there is a bleeder valve on each corner of your brake system(on each caliper for discs and also one on the drums if you got em.

read up on brake system blleding. if you can't do it yourself or don't feel confident, just pay a place to flush out your brakes completely. buy your own sythetic and take it up there. buy about 3 big bottles of valvoline synthetic DOT4 brake fluid. it works well.

thanks DOHCSTUNR

[I read this]

get her fixed?

i just got the article... i will be doing it soon. she's overdue for this proceedure anyways

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kalamidad

i just got the article... i will be doing it soon. she's overdue for this proceedure anyways

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link to article please

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>thanks DOHCSTUNR

[I read this]</div>


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Kalamidad wrote: Â*
i just got the article... i will be doing it soon. she's overdue for this proceedure anyways Â*


link to article please</div></div>

just at as a side note, shaking breaks is a normal side-effect of antilock brakes. Look up how Antilock brakes works or someone else explain it... i don't feel like it right now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kalamidad

just at as a side note, shaking breaks is a normal side-effect of antilock brakes. Look up how Antilock brakes works or someone else explain it... i don't feel like it right now.

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I just changed out my front pads and when I Stop I hear a vibration on the drivers side that I didn't hear before. Any thoughts? 2001 LS V6

Thanks.

Phil

if you haven't followed the procedure to break your brakes in, do that and it should go away.

if you have, i'd go over it one more time and make sure everything was installed correctly.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kalamidad)</div><div class='quotemain'>just at as a side note, shaking breaks is a normal side-effect of antilock brakes. Â*Look up how Antilock brakes works or someone else explain it... i don't feel like it right now.</div>

Pulsed braking is the effect of antilock braking. This is activated when the ecu detects wheel lock while the car has the brakes applied. Also, Antilock brakes should not be confused with traction control (which galants do not have).

Shaking brakes on just the driver's side is something completely different.