Man, this is definantly a great tutorial. But provide some pix to go along with the words, so we can visualize what the instructions are saying.
Ok, so maybe it's not a "performance" modification, but it's a REALLY good idea. Especially if you're concerned with burning oil.
This one comes from the Neon community (thank one of the penny-pinchers later...you'll feel better)
Fact is large displacement, small engines like the 4g64 tend to burn quite a bit of oil. It's usually caused by excessive manifold vacuum at idle sucking oil through the PCV valve. The more well heeled will install an expensive custom made catch-can inline to catch this oil. These cans usually cost between $60 and $120 depending on how exotic they become. This is a bit too expensive for the average mortal, and people either just don't know any better, or live with the oil consumption. The Neon drivers came up with a solution, the $20 catchcan! As it's name implies you get all of the benefits of that really expensive catchcan for ~$20. Here's a short little how-to (pics can be arranged, but eh...I'm too lazy to just do it of my own accord):
Parts/tools required:
1 Campbell Hausfeld "Mini General Purpose Filter" P/N MP5138 ($11.38)
2 3/8" ID, 1/4" NPT hose barb. Amflo P/N 411-RET ($1.49 ea)
3-4" 3/8 fuel line ($1.39/ft)
Teflon pipe tape
Screwdriver/socket set (to tighten hose clamps)
Crescent wrench
2 6" Zip ties
2 3/8" hose clamps (2 are provided with the Amflow barbs, use of another brand may require 2 additional clamps)
cutters/scissors
Hose cutter (knife will work also)
Difficulty level: Very easy
Time required: 15 min
1. Remove the "stone" from the filter. That is for use with an air compressor and will only hinder the performance of the filter in this application.
2. Install the hose barbs using teflon tape on the threads to ensure a good seal using the crescent wrench. Snug is good, too tight and you'll break the "bowl" on the filter. This assembly will never see more than 30 mm/hg of vacuum.
3. Slide the ENTIRE length of 3/8 fuel line onto the "inlet" side of the filter and tighten down a hose clamp.
4. Position the filter (I found the A/C line to be particularly convinient) Remember, the filter has to point "down", if it's horizontal, it won't work!
5. Use the zip ties to LIGHTLY attach the filter to the mounting point. Don't overtighten the ties, they just need to keep the filter from moving too much right now. The filter still needs to be able to move a bit.
6. Cut the fuel line to proper length to attach to the PCV valve. You'll likely have to rotate the PCV 90* or so to line up, it turns easy though. Slide it on the end of the PCV valve. Use another hose clamp if you feel the need. On a Purolator PCV valve, the fit is so tight I skipped this step. The OEM valve is slightly smaller though, and may require a clamp.
7. Fit the remainder of the fuel line to the other hose barb and secure with hose clamp.
8. Cut remaining fuel line to length to reach nipple on intake manifold. Slip over nipple, securing with hose clamp. Tthis DOES need a hose clamp, a vacuum leak will likely result without one.
9. Tighten zip ties and cut off "tails" Check all hose clamps to ensure fit.
10. Start the car and check for vacuum leaks. Rev the engine slightly by manually opening the throttle body. You should see a white "mist" in the bowl of the filter when the engine is revved. If not consider replacing the PCV valve while you're here.
11. Be sure to check the bowl every 100 miles or so, until you get a feel for how fast it fills up. You need to empty it pretty regularly (~300-500 miles)
I put mine on last night, and after driving only ~15 miles to-from work, there is about 1/2 teaspoon of oil in the bowl. Do the math and you can see this is a SIGNIFIGANT ammount of oil usage! Try it...it's only $20...and it's imminantly reversible if you don't like it. (oh, and the CH filter is BLUE...so if you like blue...this is DEFINITELY for you)
Staying busy is important. After all, idle hands spend time at the genitles.
Man, this is definantly a great tutorial. But provide some pix to go along with the words, so we can visualize what the instructions are saying.
its a waist of time and i dont particularly want a can full of flamable oil under my hood.. just take the valve cover off and drill holes in the vapor catch part of the valve cover.. then ur head is litterally the catch can.. simple as that.. if u need pics ill take some w/ my dads phone..
now im not downing this .. its a great idea if u dont want to remove your valve cover .. but its jsut so easy for me.. and anyone else w/ a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet..
1997 Mitsubishi Galant 4G64 *R*I*P*
soon to come, 97 Copper GST 5spd, Bone Stock, for now...
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SuperGALANT)</div><div class='quotemain'>its a waist of time and i dont particularly want a can full of flamable oil under my hood..</div>
how about soft rubber hoses full of highly flammable gasoline?
oil just isn't going to catch on fire if you aren't having a fuel fire first. in which case you are fucked.
i held a torch to an oil fitting on my head to heat it up for an easy removal and all the fresh oil that was leaking beside it barely even smoked. no fires there.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
well i also dont want to have an extra can just sitting in there..
i just see spending 15 min. putting a catch can on ur car over making ur valve cover not need one is a waist.. just fix what mitsu didnt do.. if it had bigger holes in the back of the v. cover then we never would have this problem..
1997 Mitsubishi Galant 4G64 *R*I*P*
soon to come, 97 Copper GST 5spd, Bone Stock, for now...
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SuperGALANT)</div><div class='quotemain'>its a waist of time and i dont particularly want a can full of flamable oil under my hood.. just take the valve cover off and drill holes in the vapor catch part of the valve cover.. then ur head is litterally the catch can.. simple as that.. if u need pics ill take some w/ my dads phone..
now im not downing this .. its a great idea if u dont want to remove your valve cover .. but its jsut so easy for me.. and anyone else w/ a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet..</div>
You have 5 quarts of flamable oil under the hood anyway...regardless of where you place it. And I guarantee you that if you put my set-up on your car that bowl would still fill up with oil.
Why?
Because the oil being caught in the can is oil vapor being sucked in through the PCV. Try this test: With the car running, take off the oil cap and hold your hand over the hole for 15 seconds or so. Your hand will have quite a bit of oil on it. It's a fine mist being slung off of the valvetrain. Now, your method dosen't reduce the ammount of oil mist being sucked in through the PCV...it INCREASES it, because more can now reach the PCV itself. And since your holes don't affect the manifold vacuum that draws the oil mist through the PCV system, it does nothing to reduce the ammount of oil being drawn it.
But hey, if drilling holes is your thing....Go for it. If you happen to doubt me still, get some clear 3/8 line (the lines they use in soda machines works great...if you can get your hands on some. I think Lowes/Home Depot sell similar stuff) and use it to replace your black rubber line from PCV to manifold and see how far the oil travels. Try it with a catchcan in place and very little if any oil will make it to the manifold nipple.
Like it or not, the Neon community is pretty serious about testing, re-testing, and re-testing stuff some more. After all, they have a pretty strong racing heritage. And increasing knock resistance by lowering the ammount of oil in the intake tract, eaking out that last 2-3 hp from the fine edge of tuning allowed under Showroom Stock C rules to gain the upper hand is what those guys are all about. Don't take my word for it though....test it yourself. What'll it cost you? $25?
Staying busy is important. After all, idle hands spend time at the genitles.
word son. i have clear tubing as my breather line (with the little in-line fuel filter) and i was shocked at the sludge coming through there.
i like this catch can idea, i might throw it together this weekend. after my last catch can pissed me off i'm a little reluctant but i'll have to see this campbell filter
lmfao. :laughing: You could always weld on a nipple to the exhaust streem at a 45deg angle and atatch the pcv line to it. Force of the exhaust gas flowing by creates a small vaccum and will suck the pcv gases into the exhaust instead of your intake. Illegal..but who cares. However if you dont get the nipple on an almost perfect angle youll end up blowing exhaust up into your pcv =POriginally Posted by 98ACR
Rob
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rIp 97 Galant
starting over.
90 Talon
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