Water pump is bad is this a do it urself job??

[phizz2k]

Ok well I originally bought my car crashed and since my parents owned a used car dealership it wasn't hard to rebuild the cosmetic damage. The pulley's for the water pump were a little warped but I believe that is what lead to my pump going bad... Lots of fluid is dripping from that area and steam is also flowing steadlily from that area.

I have already bought a water pump and plan on changing this myself.... I have access to plenty tools and I had the chilton's book for the 7g galant but can't find it

Anyways I was wondering if anyone here has done this before and how hard was it. Any manuals or things I should watch out for and I know i risk messing up my timing however I'am willing to take that risk and believe it can't be that difficult to get right...

[bronxbombr]

easy if you know somewhat about cars, also change the timing and balance shaft, will save you time and money in the long run.

[phizz2k]

Ok, I Already replace the harmonic balencer once.... ( i think thats the same thing) and I will proably replace the timing belt as well..

[MBowen574]

get the Haynes manual for the 7g and 8g galants. it shows you how to do the water pump replacement. $14 at Advance or eBay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Repair-Serv...015244038QQrdZ1

[Russian7G]

i hope you didn't buy a cheap pump

i replaced mine about 16 months ago with a cheap one (mitsubishi was 20 bucks more expensive) and yesterday after a 2000-mile trip to pennsylvania i found that it is leaking very bad

i don't have time to fix it because i have to drive 600 miles to wisconsin this week. used prestone radiator stop-leak, and it is leaking less now, but after i come back i'll still have to replace it

[bronxbombr]

get the Haynes manual for the 7g and 8g galants. it shows you how to do the water pump replacement. $14 at Advance or eBay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Repai...15244038QQrdZ1

Those manuals arent all too accurate, you can use some of its info as a guide but not all are correct. Better to search around for an original FSM.

[o1naturalhigh]

you can also go to the dealer and buy the chilton guide for the year car you got. it's a little more accurate than the haynes one IMO.

[bronxbombr]

you can also go to the dealer and buy the chilton guide for the year car you got. it's a little more accurate than the haynes one IMO.

True indeed.

[4-G-rim]

Changing your water pump is a bit more indepth compared to maybe changing your drivebelts. It requires to remove the timing belt since it runs the water pump. I strongly suggest if you are going aftermarket at least go with a Napa brand...its better quality. I would replace it ASAP because sudden failure could lead to overheating and a ruined head gasket. While you are replacing the water pump you might as well replace the timing belt..kill 2 birds with 1 stone and you can kill more birds by replacing your front seals (Cam seals, crank seal, oil pump seal) while you are at it and if you are still running your balance shafts its probably a good idea to replace the balance shaft belts because well, you don't want those busting and ruining your timing belt and having your valves making love to your pistons. 8) Replacing the actual pump is easy...but putting on the timing belt will take some time especially if you never done it before. Good Luck!!

[bronxbombr]

And if you need the timing belt and balance shaft belt i happen to have em brand new in my garage right now. PM me so we can talk figures.

[98ACR]

Changing your water pump is a bit more indepth compared to maybe changing your drivebelts. It requires to remove the timing belt since it runs the water pump.

No, it's not... It's run by the alternator belt. I think you might be able to do the WP with the T-belt in place. I dunno...I've never done one actually :shock: You need to remove the Timing belt cover, but it just dosen't look like the WP extends far enough for there to be T-belt interference.

[seth98esT]

Not going to come off unless the tensioner pulley/arm are removed which requires the tbelt to come off.

Actually its pretty easy to do a timing belt job on a SOHC motor, just turn the crank so all the marks line up, remove the tensioner to release tension and you can remove the belt and tensioner pulley/arm.

[SpaceGhost711]

Changing your water pump is a bit more indepth compared to maybe changing your drivebelts. It requires to remove the timing belt since it runs the water pump. I strongly suggest if you are going aftermarket at least go with a Napa brand...its better quality. I would replace it ASAP because sudden failure could lead to overheating and a ruined head gasket. While you are replacing the water pump you might as well replace the timing belt..kill 2 birds with 1 stone and you can kill more birds by replacing your front seals (Cam seals, crank seal, oil pump seal) while you are at it and if you are still running your balance shafts

Why would you not be running your balance shaft?

[seth98esT]

Removing both balance shafts(front/rear) puts 6-7lbs less on the rotating mass. Less mass to spin, more power can be freed up and the faster it can be revved. Remove the front shaft, plug it with a mitsu cap and you can run without the risk of the BS belt snapping and taking out the timing belt. Remove the rear shaft and run a stubby shaft and your done.

There is really only one con, without the balance shafts, there would be more vibration at idle and around 3600rpm or some certain rpm. Some people notice the vibration more then others some do not think it is that bad.

Then you have Mitsu techs like Mannybrew who are totally against it. To some people it is worth it, to others it isnt. Just a matter of how much you want that extra HP.

I removed mine and it wasnt that bad. Havent taken it for a drive to feel the gains yet. But by just spinning the crank with a wrench, it is a LOT easier to spin.

[4-G-rim]

On the my GVR4 the balance shafts are removed...and the motor does rev faster. Not sure if you "gain" horsepower, I hear and read others saying there is an increase, but I would rather see it for myself. Like I said..the motor does rev faster since like what Seth said, less rotating mass to spin. I did notice a little bit more vibration but I also think that filling in my motor mounts has some part of that too. The vibration isn't that bad IMO...its something you can live with and if you get the shortblock balanced and blueprinted in some cases vibration isn't a issue at all. I am removing the balance shafts on the new motor for -G-rim I am building for next year since I like the results of the balance shaft removal on the 4g63 in my GVR4.

[seth98esT]

Well its not a gain, you wont gain hp. But its more effecient so you would see more whp on a dyno or the butt-dyno for you cheap people

[98ACR]

I'd just like to point out, a lot more people are satisfied with the balance shaft removal on the 4g63 with it's much more square dimensions, it would have a lot fewer vibrations than the over-square 4g64. And given that most Galants are automatics the vibrations would be even more exaggerated. Personally, I wouldn't do it. A larger TB, more free flowing exhaust, and possibly an underdrive pulley (does this exist for the Galant yet?) would be a better route to better throttle response. I know that a lot of people that remove the balance shafts on the Nissan 2.5L 4cyl complain that the benefits really aren't worth the trade-offs. Just my $0.02

[seth98esT]

Yah, if its yoru dailey driver, I wouldnt do it. My Galant isnt my dailey driver anymore

[SpaceGhost711]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(98ACR)</div><div class='quotemain'>I'd just like to point out, a lot more people are satisfied with the balance shaft removal on the 4g63 with it's much more square dimensions, it would have a lot fewer vibrations than the over-square 4g64. And given that most Galants are automatics the vibrations would be even more exaggerated. Personally, I wouldn't do it. A larger TB, more free flowing exhaust, and possibly an underdrive pulley (does this exist for the Galant yet?) would be a better route to better throttle response. I know that a lot of people that remove the balance shafts on the Nissan 2.5L 4cyl complain that the benefits really aren't worth the trade-offs. Just my $0.02</div>

That makes since. Thanks for the info.

[phizz2k]

Well Thank you guys for all the help and I decided to let someone else do it. I found a guy out here in tallahassee, florida that changed the water pump, both tiiming belts or the camshaft timing belt and the smaller balencing belt. For an incredible price. I had to buy the parts but his labor fee was a little over a hundred bucks :shock:

He also had a 94 galant in his back yard smashed in from the side that still runs great. He asked me if I know anyone who wants to buy it anyone interested. I myself am looking at some individual parts.