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Reply With Quoteill keep ya posted, i get my part at 10:00 Am tomarrow. So i should be back home with it, and know buy 11. So if ya dont hear from me buy 11:30 Thats a good sign. A very good sign, Might see me cruizin New york lol
I know this now man, i figured he sad he had built these cars. And he cant even figure this shit out. I mean, You shoulda seen what i saw when i pulled my timing cover off. Anyways. Its in the past, i learn the hard way, Now all i can do is get my ride running. If this dont work, i got a friend that might be able to help me. i dont really wanna try anything else, i put everything together vs the book, and if it dont run right, its something he fucked up, because i did the shit right, he broke clips and everything, the ammount of shit ive had to replace is Bullshit, Noone will ever touch under the hood of my car again, At least, Once she is up and running again, She has a good heart, and dont go down easy. first time shes ever been down. almost 4 years now. lol . Well, all i can do is wait for these parts, If that dont work, then im going to have to wait for my friends scanner, to see what exactly is going on, cause i dont wanna do anything else wrong again lol.
ill keep ya posted, i get my part at 10:00 Am tomarrow. So i should be back home with it, and know buy 11. So if ya dont hear from me buy 11:30 Thats a good sign. A very good sign, Might see me cruizin New york lol
Ok here is the deal. Mitsubishi looked up my Vin, And ordered me my
" Camshaft sending Cylinder " or Camshaft Reluctor, as some know it, And this part that came in was the wrong one. As well as the one i got from underrated... we looked up several cars, and they all pointed to the one part number.... Which was the Reluctor Pictured on the right.
The reluctor im in Desprate need of is on the left. This part has EVERYTHING to do with timing. And they are claiming there is only one, The one that i got from underrated is the same one used in all mitsu models we looked up ( galant, eclipse, montereo sport ) The only camshaft reluctor we could find with a difrent part number, was one from a 1998 Eclipse SOHC 2.4 L. So im hoping, that this will work, Consider my car was manufactured in OCT 1998, ( dont help as how they have no pictures ) I dont see how they would take the motor from a reverse setup and use it. I dont know much at all about that, and as far as such a rare part like a reluctor would have in comon. But seeing is how they only EVER made 2 difrent types of these sensors, This other part number is difrent, and must be the reluctor i need.
I also asked about having my ECU flashed, or re-Programmed. To read the Newer style reluctor. Also was not possible. All i can do if this new part coming in from the 98 eclipse dont work. is post it in the willing to buy section, and hope someone has a reluctor that i need. ( with 2 fat sides ) not 1 fat and one really skinny side. Also, There are 2 Notches in the reluctor i ordered. the one i pulled from my head has 1 notch, Right inbetween the space on one side, that goes TDC with the cam. Any help is greatly appreachiated, Thanks agin everyone for all your help. ( Notice the Bo-Bo on my Stock cylinder . That there saved my ass from loosing my whole motor ! :)
Okay, I've wasted enough time trying to help you. I'm going to be blunt. Do what everybody has been telling you and take your car to the fucking dealership where they know what they're doing. People cannot diagnose this severe/elusive of a problem over the Internet.
ok then. Peace out
- 1 Grants Pass TGC Rep.
Yeah, scratch that. Don't take it to the dealership, they are apparently idiots. You read your other thread. Do what you have to do, just don't get worked up over it.
Sigh
Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
Drive It Like You Stole It!
7G Erubini Body Kit for sale
http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57678
yea, im going to go over, Double check all my vaccum lines and such, it really feels like a vaccum leak, But ill just take an easy, and wait till i can save up some cash, and get it diagnosed, Find out what the problem is. My dad was talking about coming over and rebuilding the head with me. cause that man knows his shit, and hehas way more tools than i do lol. but first step is finding the problem. My car wouldnt sit there and stay running if it was that messed up. Its something simple. I just know it, Well either way, if i dont find it, im taking it to a mechanic, i dont know who, but ill just hafta suck it up, and trust someone. At least to identify the problem . Im off to check lines and what not. Now that im perfectly clear on the fact that the Reluctor is NOT the issue.
The dealership is idots... Wouldnt happen to have a layout of all the vaccum lines ? Wait, i think the last PDF you posted had hose diagrams in it.
hrm, i paid to have my timing done, and its the same way i did it. The pin is not even close to bieng able to go back threw the tensioner... Anyone have any ideas on how to make a tool ? to tension your belt. The special tensioner is way out.
Okay, you're really starting to piss me off. Didn't I explicitly say that a vacuum leak won't cause you to not be able to rev your engine? In fact, a vacuum leak that big would be making your engine idle at around 3000-4000 RPM, but very lean.
Why don't you have a code reader on hand? That would tell you exactly what your STFT's are and you could easily see if you had a huge vacuum leak if they are maxed at 150%.
<-- doesn't know what the fuck he's talking about
Okay, about the tensioner thing. I, again, explicitly said that it should be able to be easily pulled out after setting the tension and NOT be able to be reinserted 5 minutes after removing it. The service manual section I linked says the same damn thing.
There's no way to tell if it's tensioned properly without measuring the pushrod extension or just doing it again.
edit: and did you even replace the tensioner and pullies? If you did, it would have come with a pin already inserted and you wouldn't be questioning yet another aspect of your clueless rebuild.
im not saying that, i just want a hose diagram, cause its acting like a vaccum like is backwards. i mean, just kinda plugged them in, the guy who didi it didnt know where that went. he told me last night " i just kinda put them where ever they fit " There is little T junctions and everything, im just looking at all options.... I dont wanna piss you off. But the car idles great, i can leave it running all day, but the second i hit the gas it sputters and dies till i let off, like its something backwards. before i
a. Take it to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. sience i cant afford it anyways for a few weeks, i figured. Why not look over the lines that " just kinda went where ever "
or b . Build the head with my dad, which i think redoing it all would be alot better idea, which is the road im heading towards. But id like to double check these hoses and everything. They look all tangled up, and some dont look like they go to certian places.
I got all the pulleys, but i didnt get a tensioner. ;( I wish i woulda known what i was doing and did this myself, i trusted someone i shouldt of . sorry :(
Those vacuum hoses are all emissions related cept for the one going to your FPR. Having them plugged up wrong won't make your engine run like crap at idle or keep it from revving.
Unless he somehow fucked up the FPR and is overrunning his injectors.....Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI
Just guessing although it seems like there was already enough of that done during this debacle.
222whp/250wtq
Well this kinda makes sience ;P i dont think its anything serious, and Scsi is right. Its in the valve timing. And yes. I am right. But where the problem is. There is slack on the belt. So while bieng turned. the crank pulls the slack on the belt. Then inturn pulling the cam.
So here is whats happening.
I start the car. Runs great. It is. Everythings perfectly on time.
But when the fan kicks on, or any load comes to the car, the engine starts working harder ( thus Pulling the slack ) throwing the valve timing off. Till the computer goes woah, then idles down, the tension on the belt returns to normal, and thus runs great. Same when ever i touch the gas. It pulls the belt, Pulling it more and more off time.
But when i stop the car, Everything is lined up 100 % That would be why my timing marks are good, But my timing is off...
i bet if i could get this tensioner set to 44 lbs, somehow or another, everything would run perfect. It just needs to be TIGHT, So when i give it gas, It stays on time. i really wish i had one of thoes tensioner tools.
Thanks man, I shoulda listend earlier. :cry:
That will only happen if the belt is extremely loose and no tension is set on the tensioner pulley before the pin is pulled. Just stick it in a vice and put the pin in and find some way to hold that pulley to the correct tensioner with snap ring pliers or something.
its not really really loose, but when i turn the crank, i could definatly see the valve timing is going to be behind about a tooth and a half. Maybe the belt was put on one direction the first time ? and a difrent this second time when i got the new cylinder. And then it kinda stretched a little ?
Im just thinking of options, either way, i called the mechanic. I would rather he come over. Shit ill pay him to have an extra set of hands to help. rather have ahnds that clamps and stuff, ive had enuf bad luck, i think ive done a great job so far, but im done, i mean, i didnt know nothing, and i wasnt prepared. This just got me all over worked and in a bad mood for 3 weeks .
edit: Basicly i can move the crank about a tooth before the top cam sprocket responds in any way.
Oh, your timing is off then. There should be NO slack in the belt and it seems there is quite a bit. There are tons of different ways to set the tension on that pulley without the special tool, I'm sure you'll figure something out.
yea im sorry for ranting on and on man, i was just fustrated about this whole situation. Anyways... lol
the belts not that loose, but i need a new one basicly, from the looks of it, ill get the mechanic over here, if we pull it tight, and set the tensioner, and there is still room or play. Im replacing the belt, cause it seems like the best is just stretchy, or like, maybe the timing belt has 1 extra little bumpy thing or something strange. seems its just not tensioned right, or it would pick up the slack, my bad. it feels tight, but i can turn the crank 1 tooth ( the top dont move ) then there is some serious slack
, i think i just need to tighten up that slack with the wrench, compress the tensioner. have them pull on the tensioner, while i hold the wrench, and his son tourques on the pulley.spin it a couple times and pull the pin out, should be good as long as its within 3-4 MM No more. Its about about 5.2 MM right now.
ill compress it, slap it together, double check it, and fuck putting it together, i wanna hear it fire and get a couple good revs ( after i make sure its set ) before i put it back together.
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