She is Alive !

[Eclipse97526]

i did , they want payment first, so thats outta the option till monday, at the earliest, for the 17.00 $ part. lol over night is an extra 10 $ for next day delivery. 20 % of cost. Flat rate.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Your dealership sucks. I get free overnight always and I can pay when it gets there.

[underated]

i've got 2 sets of cam angle sensors, reluctors, cam sensor housings i need yto keep one of the cam angle sensors but i cant use the the other stuff anymore if you need it its yours send me like 20 bucks and what ever shipping is and they are yours

[WarmAndSCSI]

i've got 2 sets of cam angle sensors, reluctors, cam sensor housings i need yto keep one of the cam angle sensors but i cant use the the other stuff anymore if you need it its yours send me like 20 bucks and what ever shipping is and they are yours

^^ do it for the reluctor! Shipping from Cali to Oregon should be quick.

[Eclipse97526]

PM sent :)

Was kinda funny. I called asking the dealership questions, there like, come bring it to us, we can get it up and running for you. lol polly cost me like a thousand bucks, and they would do the timing, which i have all the shit, and put on the new cam angle sensor, and the car should run fine, Im sure they would really give it to me with no lube if i took it to my dealership, its way far away too lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

PM sent :)

Was kinda funny. I called asking the dealership questions, there like, come bring it to us, we can get it up and running for you. lol polly cost me like a thousand bucks, and they would do the timing, which i have all the shit, and put on the new cam angle sensor, and the car should run fine, Im sure they would really give it to me with no lube if i took it to my dealership, its way far away too lol

Never tell the parts department what you're actually doing with the car I only talk to them about what I'm running in the quarter.

[underated]

is that all he needs i kind of read through the post but i saw that you and seth were all ready helping him so i didnt read everything i figured you guys had handled it already lol

oh yah and as far as the balance shafts the oil pump sprocket is on a 2:1 ratio so you can't just line up the arrow if you still have your balance shafts intact you have to make sure

this is taken straight from the service manual

Remove the plug on the cylinder block and insert a Phillips
head screwdriver [shank diameter 8 mm (0.3 inch)] through
the hole.
If it can be inserted as deep as 60 mm (2.4 inches) or more,
the timing marks are correctly aligned.
if the inserted depth is only 20 to 25 mm (0.8 to 0.9 inch),
turn the oil pump sprocket one turn and realign the timing
marks. then check to ensure that the screwdriver can be
inserted 60 mm (2.4 inches) or more. keep the screwdriver
inserted until the timing belt is completely installed.

[underated]

pm sent

[Eclipse97526]

Well it is kinda a number of problems lol, that i think are all related to this sensor, if the balancing shafts dont matter. And well, i did that initaly, And now i dont know, i like seths way better, the balance shafts must have a wierd shape to them, cause i can insert that screwdrive at other times than when it is 360 Degrees on time, if its 360 degrees around it wont go in. but then i spin it around, it will go in, i was assuming this was correct, which it is, But i happened to notice, That also when the arrow is facing many other directions, the screwdriver still goes in all the way. Its not blocked unless its almost on the timing mark, or if its 360 degrees off, other than that baisicly the screwdrive can be inserted into this plug hole im also tryin from the bottom now, so its kinda angled up, because of the headers and everything/ But either way, that shaft dont matter, broken, 100 % off either way, it should still start, and its back firing, so its timing, and timing was on, so only other thing that has to do with it, is this sensor that was Definatly hit with the force of the motor running at 1000 rpm's

It hit the sensor as soon as the computer tried to adjust the throttle and give it more to keep it from dying. then thats when it hit the camshaft sensor, and the sensor housing, going CLANK, and stopping the motor, I tried to start it a few more times, after some tests, it started, and slowly died, like something was going on, Then it made a second louder CRACK ( the second one ) after bieng ran 5 times, 35 seconds the first time, followed with a clack, and 3 times after that, it ran for maybe 10 seconds, then the last time was running about 5 seconds then a LOUD CLACK , this musta been the one that took the chunk out of the Sensor, because it never fired properly after this second hit.... And thats the only damage i can see other than leaking antifreeze, all my valves are intact and everything looks good when i pull the valve cover off. ( also my ecu is wacked ) battery was out for 3 weeks.

[seth98esT]

Kinda crazy man. If you have taken hte entire timing cover off and have checked to make sure both the crank and cam angle sensor are in time with each other, then its possible its the sensor.

And why is coolant leaking? Where is it coming from?

[Eclipse97526]

well the crank is on time, and the left balancing shaft " the small timing belt " is on, and aledgly that would only cause engine vibrations. the cam is on time, well, off 1/2 a tooth, about 2 mm off, almost half a tooth, so that may have been it... But my angle sensor is scrached and thats prolly why it wont even try starting, its gone..

Well i let it sit all night, with the timing cover off, luckly i took the belts off, there is a small pool in my timing cover, and a drop coming from the bottom bolt of the water pump here, ill brb lol.

[Eclipse97526]

here are some pictures of whats going on, yes, this is a new pump, and yes, my friend rob installed it. he used hi temp rtv gasket maker

when my timing cover was on, it was leaking antifreeze down the side of the cover, and down onto my oil filter, now that its jacked up and the tire is off and the timing cover, its pooling down at the bottom of the timing cover, its dripping up from the water up area, There is a dropplet coming off of the new water pump, on the bottom side, also the little bracket right there next to it has a dropplet on it, about a 3 inch diamiater wet spot on the ground. in this same area, i went out to take pictures, but my flash light is dead. :(

[Eclipse97526]

this is why rob is not working on my car ever again lol....



i went out the night after the Clack, And saw this, so i tightened it up, and began my dignossis.... a good example of everything he did was crap, even this tensioner.... Arg... and he was getting pissed at the alternator bracket with the locking bolt, i went over there and tightened it and had it together in 2 minutes. gave me a little trouble but yea... i should do it myself, i seem to have a nack for it.

[Eclipse97526]

lol i just know i need my G back haha, its been down 3 weeks, and i havent had a girly in 3 weeks haha, idmagine that.

[seth98esT]

Hah yah, Ive had a leaky waterpump once. Just had to take the pump off, clean it up a bit, reapply some rtv, let it sit for 10 min, then put it back. Did you use any antiseize on any of the bolts? Especially for the autotensioner and pulleys, great idea.

If the crank timing mark is lined up and the cam gear mark is 1/2 tooth off, it will start just fine. I know on my car, I always set the exhaust gear 1 tooth advance.

Usually if you line up the marks perfectly, then put the belt on, then apply tension, the camgear mark will be off 1/2 - 1 tooth. To fix this, if you align the crank on its timing mark, then advance the cam gear clockwise 1/2 - 1 tooth with a open end wrench, then finish putting the belt on, when you apply tension the cam gear mark will be in time with the crank.

Ive only done one SOHC tbelt job and a few DOHC tbelt jobs, but Ive always done this, and it always worked great.

[Eclipse97526]

I see , well then my problem is definatly that little sensor, and shit, because the cam and the crank are perfectly ontime, andits still backfiring and chugging, makin the cam back up, and go back words counter clockwise about 60-90 degrees, ( like a faulty timing setup ) but im not hitting any valves or anything, and the marks check out, so thats why i was so boggled do i need to drain all the coolant to remove the water pump ?

[Eclipse97526]

its brand damn new, but my friend rob did it... so i would bet ya 100 bucks thats where the leak is from, But also, it coulda been, the O ring on the driver side water inlet hose, was all fuckin hard to put on while setting the head on the block, and lining the gasket up, i got a pretty good seal on it, but couldnt get the water inles support bolt in to hold the water hose in place, ill go check and see if maybe it is leaking from here, and maybe running down the pipe and dripping off the passengerside.

[underated]

i sent out the stuff will be there monday i'm going to pm you with the tracking number just in case hope this fixes your problem

[Eclipse97526]

Yes, This is the only other items that have anything to do wih fuel / ignition and the timing, and thats whats off, and its not my marks hehe, you can see buy this picture, that it definatly hit the sensor and the housing pretty good....

[Eclipse97526]

maybe thats why my car dont run, lol .