Galantman03's 8G Build

[Ivory8g]

Dayuuum got them all lol.

[Galantman03]

glad i could help its something i want to do also so i had some of the research done

Haha good! maybe we can show up evom then, since nobody knows anything about anything electrical over there

I'm watching this closely. I'd love to make a full harness to eliminate this mess in the engine bay. I don't mind pinning new plugs and running wires between connectors.

U better make this tutorial with part numbers to plugs!

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I want to!

Dayuuum got them all lol.

GIVE ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Isaurio]

So. What is the problem again. This harness thing is complex as it is. -_-


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[Galantman03]

huh? There is no problem, I'm just going to retuck the harness again, but instead of soldering and using random crap to make it work, I'm just going to repin everything, that way there are no issues down the road of solder breaking ect. It will be like factory, wires without solder and random butt connectors ect. And in order to do that, you just repin everything, but find info on the pins is next to impossible. Sure I can go buy them for 75 cents each, or I could get the part number and order them from an electronics company for like 5 cents each, and have a permanent way of getting the pins in the future, if needed.

[Isaurio]

huh? There is no problem, I'm just going to retuck the harness again, but instead of soldering and using random crap to make it work, I'm just going to repin everything, that way there are no issues down the road of solder breaking ect. It will be like factory, wires without solder and random butt connectors ect. And in order to do that, you just repin everything, but find info on the pins is next to impossible. Sure I can go buy them for 75 cents each, or I could get the part number and order them from an electronics company for like 5 cents each, and have a permanent way of getting the pins in the future, if needed.

I see. Makes sense. Too much time for that. If is not broken dont fix it. Lol. But keep us posted what you find.

I did had to make a plug for the stock oil pressure. That metal clip sucks ass for no balance shaft, hot cam, solid mounts. My shit was brand new after a few runs and idle it just snap. Got plug solder the wire and is money.


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[Galantman03]

I see. Makes sense. Too much time for that. If is not broken dont fix it. Lol. But keep us posted what you find.

I did had to make a plug for the stock oil pressure. That metal clip sucks ass for no balance shaft, hot cam, solid mounts. My shit was brand new after a few runs and idle it just snap. Got plug solder the wire and is money.


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My oil pressure was fine, but my stock oem water temp for the gauge that was bouncing all over the place lol. True if it isn't broke don't fix it, BUT if it has the possibility of coming loose or it breaking during a WOT Pull, I don't need that lol. This will be a true Mil-Spec harness, including but not limited to tefzel wiring, proper lacing, and less wires in the bay. and just less crap in the bay over all period lol. It keeps me busy on the car, but doesn't cost that much compared to the thing I really want to do haha.

[Isaurio]

True man. Is a good ideal to replace some plugs on the G that are made for NA that has some nice smooth motor mount. Us. We are fucked. Vibration is a killer. Keep us posted with pics of plug/sensor, links and install.

I maybe replace also the water temp. It has that piece of shit metal clip.

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[Isaurio]

Got a oem plug from another sensor and made it none metal clip.


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[Galantman03]

So, I have fixed my lean out/ knock issue. My connector was messed up on the knock sensor, and even though it clicked, it didnt have continuity. So that right there was causing my lean condition. Today I learned that if the knock sensor is not connected, you will have constant 9 count of knock, and that count does infact adjust your fuel map to a predetermined value that cannot be changed as of yet via tuning. Couple that with a bad regulator and bam my issue.

Went for a cruise tonight, kept up with a srt10, all at 12 psi lol. Stopped and talked to him and he was astonished that i was keeping up with him at 12 psi lol. That little run finished fouling my plugs, so I picked up some copper ones and while I was at the autoparts store, some guy walked up and asked if it was a vr4. So we preceded to talk for like an hr over the galant and his starion lol. Pretty chill night.

Current issue. Cannot build boost past 12 13 psi. Boost leak good to 30, and I even installed a MBC and cranked it up. No change. Ideas?

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[Silvertune]

Oh? Oh? Knock sensor wire causing limp mode. Who said it? Lol. Off my soap box.

Where are you hooking up the boost least tester? It's possible you're blowing air through the head via some lobe overlap. Turn the engine over a part turn with a ratchet and try it again. If that doesn't help just disconnect it at the throttle body and plug it off. As long as the throttle body was either rebuilt with high PSI seals or a quality aftermarket unit there isn't a whole lot there to leak. That throttle body is the big one though, of the modest handful of BLTed cars I deal with the throttle body is only ever the one big leak point.

Also remember the MBC has a relief port on the back so when you go out of boost the pressure in the line can dissipate. You'll want to disconnect that and plug the line for a BLT.

[Galantman03]

Yes i know! You were right! Lol but it was a rather weird issue. The connector not connecting!

Anyways, I think you miss understood me. My boost leak test is good up to 30 psi, but when I drive the car, I can't get past 12 psi, even before I installed the mbc, and after I installed it and turned the mbc up all the way( multiple pulls to watch boost raise) no change, and the mbc is maxxed out.I'm beginning to wonder if my pig rich map is messing with my spool. I know when I was lean, it would spool quick, which makes sense. Just thinking out loud.

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[Galantman03]

So I have hit a very big bump in the road. I'm determining my options right now but I need some input, from people that have actually tuned and know WTF they are talking about. So that limits my choosing to 2 people I trust (you know who you are).
I have a map that I can flash currently right now, run rich as crap, idle funky but hit 15 psi tops, but only that. Now today I have a new map that I have flashed, at at idle around 15s or so depends, and my load is around mid 40's to low 50's. Idles nice very smooth, but once again once I hit 0 vac its leans WAY OUT, infact I did 1 pull just to see how far I can go, and I hit 10ish psi like at 17's afrs on my log, but no knock. Now I know you gonna cringe at what I did, but 5 secs of that I'm cool with. My tuner says my stuff is broke, and I know for a fact that mechanically, its sound. Tuner said to turn the boost up, but guess what, my wastegate is set at 22 psi, so even if I turn my MBC up with this map I can't even, its not even into the equation yet. I personally think this is a scaling issue with the map sensor but I know nothing really about tuning. Why at 0 vac do I lean out? Why isn't the ecu tracing the fuel scheduling that the map is programed with? Everything on Evoscan reads correct. Like no weird readings to say tha maybe my rpm signal isn't getting to the ecu, because it shows up on EvoScan. same with my map sensor, it reads good. I'm really thinking about dumping my current tuner, and taking it to a dyno, but that in itself is a 5-9 hr drive depending where I go, and I don't want to trailer it out all the way and then have that issue ya know? I have gone over all the wiring. All the signals are there (as far as I know), but because with a switching of a map, and I can run boost, compared to now where I can't even get into boost safely I'm leaning towards tuning issue. Please post only relavent information, nothing random.

[Isaurio]

Keeping the thread clean hope the 2 tuners u trust get some input. Hope you find the problem.


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[greddy]

Sounds like you need to take your car to someone who knows they're shit and have them tune it once and for all. I can think if a handful of people in the country I'd send my car to.

[Silvertune]

Have you reflashed the first map and tried it again? Does it run the same way on the old map after trying the new map?

I've seen people who think they know how to tune reference the wrong ROMs to build a new tune. ei) Your tuner may have modified some random version of the ROM you're running he had on his computer instead of the one you were already running. If something was changed in the periphery or any of a huge number of fueling tables between your old rom and the one he made then that could be your problem. For MAF based cars this table is often the Max hz by RPM Table. You always set the table for the setup then leave it but I've had guys try to refer to the original version of the rom rather than what they have on the car, forgetting to update that table, and having exactly the issue you have. I've never tuned with SD but I know there are plenty of similar scenarios.

When tuning you ALWAYS reference the ROM that is on the car and change that so that things like this don't happen. I would change tuners regardless but perhaps see if you can talk someone into trying one updated tune (if you can't do it yourself) to see if the changes in the ROM correspond to correct changes in behavior.


If I were you I'd start by comparing logs of WOT runs with either ROM and also comparing table for table the old ROM and the new ROM. Basically you want to see that the injectors aren't loading up in the second ROM like they do in the first which would allow you to conclude that the tune is at fault. If the injectors load up the same way then you have some other issue, but I'm betting that isn't the case. Once you can conclude it's the tune look through the ROMs table for table and figure out what is different. A quick search of any table name will come up with what the tables do and allow you to judge whether or not the adjustments your tuner made are logical. It's possible his adjustments just suck, some cars are more sensitive to changes than others and calling it broken after one ROM update tells me he's an amateur. It takes a few trials and errors to find the trends in how a car reacts to changes. Needless to say there aren't a million setups out there like yours so tuning it will be done best by the people who deal with setups like yours and those are, unfortunately, expensive high end shops.

[Galantman03]

Have you reflashed the first map and tried it again? Does it run the same way on the old map after trying the new map?

I have had numerous maps, and the current map idles the best period. But a couple maps back I can flashed, and hit boost to 15psi thats it, all day no knock.

I've seen people who think they know how to tune reference the wrong ROMs to build a new tune. ei) Your tuner may have modified some random version of the ROM you're running he had on his computer instead of the one you were already running. If something was changed in the periphery or any of a huge number of fueling tables between your old rom and the one he made then that could be your problem. For MAF based cars this table is often the Max hz by RPM Table. You always set the table for the setup then leave it but I've had guys try to refer to the original version of the rom rather than what they have on the car, forgetting to update that table, and having exactly the issue you have. I've never tuned with SD but I know there are plenty of similar scenarios.

I always send him a log, and sometimes the maps I am using. Usually I don't send him the map though. But he aslways sends me a new one if adjustments are made

When tuning you ALWAYS reference the ROM that is on the car and change that so that things like this don't happen. I would change tuners regardless but perhaps see if you can talk someone into trying one updated tune (if you can't do it yourself) to see if the changes in the ROM correspond to correct changes in behavior.

If I were you I'd start by comparing logs of WOT runs with either ROM and also comparing table for table the old ROM and the new ROM. Basically you want to see that the injectors aren't loading up in the second ROM like they do in the first which would allow you to conclude that the tune is at fault. If the injectors load up the same way then you have some other issue, but I'm betting that isn't the case. Once you can conclude it's the tune look through the ROMs table for table and figure out what is different. A quick search of any table name will come up with what the tables do and allow you to judge whether or not the adjustments your tuner made are logical. It's possible his adjustments just suck, some cars are more sensitive to changes than others and calling it broken after one ROM update tells me he's an amateur. It takes a few trials and errors to find the trends in how a car reacts to changes. Needless to say there aren't a million setups out there like yours so tuning it will be done best by the people who deal with setups like yours and those are, unfortunately, expensive high end shops.

The only problem is I had a friend look at my tuners maps and my logs, he couldn't find anything majorly wrong. This tuner is very respected in the evo community so I know he knows his stuff, but he seems quick to say its my stuff not his. He knows this isn't an evo, and sometimes I do have to remind him that. I think he is just getting frustrated lol which I don't blame him but still.

[Galantman03]

SO UPDATE!..... Looks like this winter is going to be fun for me! Did a compression test 2 weeks ago, and did one today. Welp, 3 are the same compression as last time but #1 is 15 psi less. Also did a leak down and IDK if the cheap leak tester worked, but it showed 35%-34% across all four. So Idk it the % is right, But I do know that all 4 cylinders are in the same range I guess.
Also added oil for the compression test, and well everything shot up 20 psi, and #1 shot up 25 psi, so it seems that the walls have been washed out from running so rich at idle. I had a hunch this was going to happen but alas, shit happens I guess. So I will be tearing down the block, honing it out and possibly lapping the valves. It depends what I see when I open it up. But I will say that whatever needs to be done will be done. Thinking about oringing the head since it is easier to send in.

But one thing that concerns me is IDK what my actual compression should equate to, as my combustion chamber was matched to my overbore. Trying to get a hold of my blueprint and clearances from MAP, but they keep sending me my receipt which tells me nothing haha.

Also since I'll be opening up everything, I'll just get new bearings for everything again.


Hmmm I might need to get a job for all this lol

So added on to the secret things I'm working on, interior, and the rewire, I got this SMH. Fun

[mko]

How many miles on the rebuild?

Cold or hot compression test and leak down test?

[Galantman03]

1600ish miles and everything was done hot around 190 water temp 200 oil temp.

[mko]

I have to say your engine is still breaking in