Galantman03's 8G Build

[Galantman03]

Thanks Jigz, means a lot. A lot of people ask me why I did it the way I did, and to be honest, I just went with the flow. So what I learned is always ALWAYS set a budget.

I figured that so I ended up redoing it, and I clocked it about 35 degrees to let moisture run out.

I found a mom and pop gas station that tests E85 before you fuel it up in town, so Ill be hitting them up sometime next week and then hopefully, next weekend the fun BEGINS. tscompusa is doing the tuning.

[4g63lover]

Yes budget is crucial. I have a hard time because I just want to drive it but the budget is the most important part.

[Galantman03]

It is.
So I was able to finish the trunk today. Fuse box and battery are underneath, and I have an access panel to removed for fuses, charging battery ect.


Also adjusted the intercooler piping so it wasn't hitting the catch can. A quick trim of the coupler fixed that issue.


and the placement of the BOV with the hood closed


I attempted a boost leak test today, turns out I forgot I don't have me check valve for the brake booster yet, but I did find that I have a pin hole leak in one of my charge pipe welds on the turbo to intercooler side. is a pin hole leak acceptable? if not Ill just weld it up I guess.

[oakrdrs187]

Put a spot weld on that, you want no leaks.

[8thLS6]

The amount of detail under the hood is sick, I like how you did some of the strut bar in purple and the brake booster also

[Galantman03]

I really enjoyed painting the strut bar like that. I felt artistic. alot of masking though. So I'm still waiting for Tom to send me the tune. He's been kinda busy on evom.net, so Hopefully soon I shall start her. also I'm going to put this here
http://www.frsport.com/Wheels-CR-Ult...FVRk7AodwE8AUg

and some info

[greddy]

Good luck fitting those lol. Gonna need to do a shit ton of camber with tiny tires to even potentially get close.

[Galantman03]

I won't be running tires LMAO! jk for reals though. I will make these fit, but I'm not ruining anymore of my winter secret project with the g YET.

[greddy]

I imagine it will involve flares/wide body haha. Car is coming along!

[Galantman03]

ok lets talk offset and tire size. I currently have mb battles with a 18x8 +30 running a 235/40 nitto invo
I am looking at upgrade to 18x10.5 +15 and running a 275/35/18 nitto invo
now, compared to my current wheels if I run the 10.5 +15 I will move the rim lip 17mm closer to the knuckle and 47 mm extra out towards the fender. The front I have plenty of room from the strut side, and the fender side doesn't bother me because I will be fixing that issue with a fender mod, scrub during full lock is the thing that is bothering me right now

for the rear, I currently have about 1 inch clearance between the knuckle and the RIM FACE. the tire i have about maybe a finger width.


so I would have to run either a 10mm or 15mm spacer to clear the knuckle side, with the 18x10.5 +15. The problem I have is I want to run a 275/35/18 tire because I don't want the stretch look at all, I like some meat of the rims sides so to speak. this would be as far of a stretch I would like to go like this. but this is 17x10+18, 20mm spacer in the rear. w/ 255/40 hankook RS-3s


So for the wheel and tire gurus, what are the options? :)

[4g63lover]

I run a 17x9 +24 and I rub at full lock. With a 225/45/17 Bridgestone potenza re070 which is more of a 235/45. Also rubs the fender on hard corners. That's on -2.8 camber I would imagine the fender would cut the tire and rub a little earlier than full lock at 0/-1 camber.

[Galantman03]

ok that gives me an idea then, I might be cutting the apron out and redoing the clearance issues then.

[greddy]

I currently run a 255/40/17 hankook RS3 which run wider than your average tire on a 17x8.5 +30. I have no rubbing issues whatsoever even at full lock after doing some massaging with a 5 pound sledge. I feel like your biggest concern is going to be the outside of the fenders especially in the rear where you might have to go all plasma cutter on the QP and do some sort of large flare. A lot of this will depend on what sort of tire you go with and what sort of ride height and camber numbers you have. the front fenders can be spaced out with relative ease, mine are spaced out about a 1/4 inch. Hope this helps a little

[Galantman03]

^Thats what ive been reading lol, how much wider would you say? 10mm more? lol@ 5 pound sledge. Yeah the fenders are going to be a problem. But I got nothing to do anymore so Ill enjoy thinking how I'm going to do this.265 or 275 tire for sure, low ride height (2 fingers between fenders) and stock camber (ok maybe -2 max on the front and rear) I know this will be alot of work, but I think it will be totally worth it. Also going to make sure that if I do do this, that I will not rub on fast cornering. But I have to make it clean, super clean. I don't want no ugly ass g lol

[greddy]

10mm @ least compared to an all season of the same "size" if not more. I dont see why you would want to stick with stock camber, if you want the car to be a handle well I would recommend running at least 2.5 degress up front and running around 1.8 in the rear. THe more front camber you can dial in the better and thus increase your rear camber accordingly. You have a front heavy AWD car with a Mac strut front suspension so the more camber up front (to a reasonable degree the better). I assume the car wont be a daily driver and contrary to popular belief big camber numbers really dont destory tires, its toe that eats through them. I daily drive my car 80+ miles a day with 3 degrees of camber up front and there is no uneven wear. I would honstly stick with a 255 RS3 if youre going to run a high performance summer tire or perhaps a BFG rival which also runs wide in a similar fashion. The rear is going to take some serious work to fit the setup you want though. My question is why? Im not trying to knock your idea Im just asking what is the puprose I guess. I know that your car will make big power with the setup you have but I know guys with evos who run a good summer tire on a 17/18 x8-9.5 size wheel who easily put down the power. To put it in perspective my car makes essentially 300/300 whp/wtq. My RS3s have little issue coping with this power once they are up to temperatures. You have the benefit of AWD. If I were in your situation would find a wheel with an offset that allows for good clearance for brakes/fenders/arms/knuckles and then pick a tire size and dial in the rest with ride height and camber. You might also look at your spring rates and adjust those accordingly as well due to the fact that with the shift in weight distribution and the addition of weight to the car youll want a stiffer spring setup all around. I would suggest running a staggered rate with the rear slightly higher than the front because the spring rate at the spring is not the same as the spring rate at the wheel, this is a popular setup in the on lancer evolutions and it has worked well for me on my car with the benefits of a more balanced car and the stiffer rear rates will help with tire to fender clearance.

Just my .02, hopefully I didnt scare you off with the novel.

[Silvertune]

After all the work you've put into everything you're really gonna neuter it by killing your suspension geometry to put heavy, oversized wheels that don't even fit? You'll spin through three gears at your power levels even with AWD with that much camber on tires that inflexible. I understand making it want to look perfect but damn dude why waste the effort making power if cut so short?

[Galantman03]

yeah your right on the camber, I think -2 would be nice in the back with no more than -3 in the front. The problem with running a 255 IMO is its not meaty enough on a 10.5 inch rim. I need to (want to really) protect the rim lip. I have read some threads on evom about 9.5 vs 10.5, and I would like more contact patch, alot more honestly. The thing that sucks for us is, we cant just do a simple roll and pull, and bumper bolt removal to run 10.5 rims that the evo guys can. I feel frustrated about that, but its a plus too, because if it requires alot of work to do it, most people won't. Thats why I want to it, I feel it would benefit me for contact patch wise at the track even though its not that much more than 9.5 inches, be original, and i would like a deep rim face. Sorry if it doesn't make sense, but i guess it doesn't have to, idk. just a thought, to prevent rubbing on our rear knuckle, we just need to make a replacement that would let us fit wide tires, but thats a lot of work, and i don't think that many people would be down to fund that. just a thought.

[Silvertune]

Contact patch won't net you anything, in fact it may very well make straightline traction worse. The 255/40R17 high performance handling tires are like hockey pucks. A stretched 18" of the same nature will be even worse, you'll spin all the time like you're on ice and you'll never get it to plant. You'll never get a front to back weight transfer launching at your power levels on something like that. It'd be great for turning but if you're anywhere under 100 miles per hour the tires will be gone when the boost kicks in.


It'd be way easier to heat up the rear knuckles and bend them back a little bit and make new rear upper control arms if the camber throw off was too far. I personally sanded mine down a bit to make more room. People say 2gb knuckles fit tires better. I was also told 255's wouldn't fit on 2ga knuckles, they would on 2gb but barely. I don't know what's true though.

245/45


255/40


Both on a +38 wheel, 2ga knuckles prior to sanding. I'm getting new wheels with a +35 and with a little sanding there is no threat of rubbing. That's a very far cry from running a 10.5 inch wheel though. You're talking a solid inch or more of interference if you're not putting a wide body kit on it and pushing the wheels way way out.

[Galantman03]

After all the work you've put into everything you're really gonna neuter it by killing your suspension geometry to put heavy, oversized wheels that don't even fit? You'll spin through three gears at your power levels even with AWD with that much camber on tires that inflexible. I understand making it want to look perfect but damn dude why waste the effort making power if cut so short?

Sorry man didn't see this, I understand form/function, but I'm trying to have both. now maybe i won't be able to run a 10.5, but it doesn't stop me from getting info on it, or others advice.

Contact patch won't net you anything, in fact it may very well make straightline traction worse. The 255/40R17 high performance handling tires are like hockey pucks. A stretched 18" of the same nature will be even worse, you'll spin all the time like you're on ice and you'll never get it to plant. You'll never get a front to back weight transfer launching at your power levels on something like that. It'd be great for turning but if you're anywhere under 100 miles per hour the tires will be gone when the boost kicks in.

It'd be way easier to heat up the rear knuckles and bend them back a little bit and make new rear upper control arms if the camber throw off was too far. I personally sanded mine down a bit to make more room. People say 2gb knuckles fit tires better. I was also told 255's wouldn't fit on 2ga knuckles, they would on 2gb but barely. I don't know what's true though.

Both on a +38 wheel, 2ga knuckles prior to sanding. I'm getting new wheels with a +35 and with a little sanding there is no threat of rubbing. That's a very far cry from running a 10.5 inch wheel though. You're talking a solid inch or more of interference if you're not putting a wide body kit on it and pushing the wheels way way out.

What do you mean like hockey pucks? I don't want a stretch tire, that stuff grosses me out, I would like to fit a 275. from the pics ive seen(yeah i know tires brand are diff) it looks about right. If I could run 285 I would.

you make a good point on bending the knuckles though, forgot about that. I (think) have 2ga knuckles, but right now with a 235/40r18 +30, (no spacer in the back)I have 1 finger gap away from the closest part of the tire from the knuckle, but I have more than an inch with the rim lip. I did the math, I figured I need a 10mm at the min in the back to clear a 275, but won't know for sure until you try it. the problem is like you said that pushes the tire out with the spacer 57 mm. there ain't no way to flare out the 1/4 and make it look good, unless you pie cut it and fill in with metal ect. also please don't cringe at the fact that if I do run 10.5 that its going to look like shit, i'm not like that, the build of this car should prove that. I want it to be flush. not hella flush. I want people to notice, hey hes got wide rims, but stare at the rear for while, because it was executed cleanly and correctly. honestly the only way I will know how much work it will be is if i cough up the money and buy 1 rim and 1 tire and just try it.

[greddy]

The super low effective offset you're gonna run is gonna kill your wheel bearings too. In for results but performance wise there are infinitely better and more practical ways to do this. I feel like silver tune and I are on the same page here.