did you hook up an AC gauge to it? it should tell the story
Im having problem with the ac. It cuts off after 5-15 minutes of driving. The solid green light starts to blink and ac stop working. I had it check to see if he needed to be charge they said is full. Left it at another ac shop they had it for a week and couldn't fig out, they said to take it to the dealer. I called the dealer they said $106 an hour but cant tell me an about just to check it not fix it. I read on here some one said to another member to change heater resistor. I change it and that didnt work, same old ac green light is on and after 10 minutes it cut off and started blinking...Seems like when the car is cold the ac work great for a few minutes but then when the car warms up ac stop or if is really hot out side and I turn the car on the ac last maybe 5 minutes..Can some one please help..
did you hook up an AC gauge to it? it should tell the story
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2000 Mitsu Galant, 4g64/Kia Head, 5 Speed, Evo 8 turbo
2000 Ford Crown Vic, DailyDriver
When was the last time you R-134a recharged the A/C system? This happened to me 6 years ago when the freon were low and it was raining hard that day. All it took was get it recharged and the green light stopped blinking.
Whats a ac gage? is it like a code reader or something for ac tell whats wrong?
Orifice tube needs replaced, and possibly the condenser too? Prolly clogged. Try the orifice tube first tho.
A/C systems can be touchy sometimes. If you are going to go as far as checking the orifice tube, dont just take it out and clean it. If you take it out you might as well replace it. Also you have to recover the system properly and legally. I dont know the laws where you are but some states do not allow you to recharge a/c unless you are certified. You can get a cheap set of a/c manifold gauges at Harbor freight for around $40. Hook them up and check your pressure and that should give you a good idea where to start or if you even need to go opening up the system.
Update, I tried everything and gave up, took it to the dealer, got charge $111 in 30minutes they said I needed ac compressor clutch...If I go back they take the $111 and apply as per labor.. Anyway grand total if I do is $787.73+ tax....I called a few friends that are mechanics and some that do fix car cause they love it, all said they never dont just the clutch or have the tools..any tips best way to go about it etc...
I had this problem on my 3g V6. Whenever I would have the A/C on and go over like 4000 rpm, the little light would blink and blow warm and I would have to pull over and shut the car off and back on. It would always blow ice cold as long as I didn't punch...
I would just replace the compressor and clutch as one, but if you dont have the equipment to properly recover the system then you should take it to a shop
^^ This...Before August rolls around and it gets balls hot!
if u in NY, buy my new compressor and i will put it in for you
Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
Drive It Like You Stole It!
7G Erubini Body Kit for sale
http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57678
i wish i rember the bearing number... i dont know if it is the same issue, but my car was making a really bad whining sound, and the bearing went out inside the Pulley. but it was a 40 $ bearing, and i just replaced it. and put it back together, your best best is to check some scrap yards, find a 8g, and go pull the pulley off yourself, that way u get the whole pulley, and bearing and all. then go to a bearing shop if your town has one, and have them measure the specs of the bearing, and order you a new one, just to replace it when its out, that way you have a new bearing and a working pulley . i think that would be the cheapest easiest route. then just remove your belt and swap the pulley
I found a used a/c compressor on eBay for $60.00 shipped, not problems yet...:) try eBay.
ive been doin some reading and what not. and well, the AC is working great i just had it charged... it seems like its a voltage issue or something. i mean a resistor or something possibly ? cause it blows cold on 1 2 and 3 , it just wont go on to 4. wich would be full 12 v current to the fan... i think there is like a relay or something that reduces the voltage to the fan... per say.. 1 would run 6v , 2 would let 8v, 3 would be 10 v and 4 should 12 v, i dont have access to a multimeter so i cant check the current and see whats going on...
the fan is not bad because its working... the compressor isint bad because its cold...and it does the same thing if the AC is on or off, on hot or cold. its either the heater / ac controls. or some resistor is bad somewhere or something, cause the lower settings work just peachy. and its not like 4 dont work at all, its just like putting it back to 1, it barely blows any air at all. ( like its going back to 8v or what ever ) it was intermittent for a while, it would start blowing really light at random, and it would either turn itself back on, or i could switch it from 3 and back to 4 and it would start blowing good again . i would think if the controls went bad than none of them would work. unless the switch + wiring for the speed controls is in its switch itself... does anyone know if replacing the ac control unit would fix it ? i found one 250 miles away for 55 $, but thats a long drive for something im not sure is the issue :(
oops. lol, sorry i was on the wrong thread ! guess that happens when you get multipules going on ;p yeah, if ebay has compressors shipped for 60 $ definatly jump on that... try to make sure it has a pulley on it also. i know the junk yards around here wanted 60 $ for the used pulley for the AC. if u can get a whole compressor for that jump all over it, its like a 700 $ compressor for the dealership and the pulley is outrageous to
hi! i have 98 mitsubishi galant and my engine light come on for that transmission ranger sensor. I have qustions do you think that sensor make my stering wheel Vibration, cauze when i put my car on drive my car is shaking? thank you
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