Welcome In A New Dragon!

[2002BlackDragon]

Yeah, my buddy is a manager at another Autozone so I'm gonna have him run the code. I just wasn't in that town when I had it ran.

I'm deff looking into the 5speed swap. Thinking I'll just go that route instead of putting money into the auto box.

And I'm not really looking at putting power out right now, but is the 74 im and tb not really worth the upgrade? I always thought they were suppose to be good ones for this motor.

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[M-Rod]

There are some gains to be had with that intake and throttle body. Stock automatic V6's typically dyno'd around 150whp/160wtq. A friend's automatic V6 with the 74 manifold and throttle body made 161whp and I can't remember the torque number, but I believe it was around 170'ish.

The manual swap will net you more power, around 180whp/185wtq. It just depends how simple or complicated of a task you're up for, and how much you're looking to spend when weighing between the two upgrades.

[2002BlackDragon]

Thanks M-Rod. Well both of these are still on the table. Just depends on which one comes first.

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[8thLS6]

Congrats on picking up the new G. Hopefully you can pickup where ou left off in no time

[2002BlackDragon]

Thanks guys.

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[2002BlackDragon]

So I have seen the several threads about what's better and the color of things, but all I care about is performance. What is the best spark plugs and wires out there for the 72? Looking at buying really soon and want to get the best I can. NGK wires? Double platinum plugs?

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[Neo8G]

I used a set of NGK Iridiums on my Galant and 05 Maxima. A little pricier but worth it imo. Even the 3.8 I'm working on will get a set.

[6G72gearhead]

A double pointed platinum is a waste on our engines. Since our engines use a distributor system they fire from the electrode to the ground electrode (the tip), so a single point of platinum on the electrode allows it to not erode as fast. With a waste spark system, like on a GM3800 V6, the coil fires 2 cylinders at the same time and it fires the cylinders directly, there is no distributor in play. Since it fires 2 cylinders at the same time, one is being fired from the electrode to the tip, and the other is firing from the tip to the electrode. Since the most erosion occurs on the firing end of the plug a point of platinum on the electrode and the tip are used, giving you the double platinum.

There is a little more to it then that, but that gets you the gist of it.

I'd recommend an NGK Iridium if you aren't interested in changing plugs often. If you service the car frequently I'd use the regular old copper plugs from NGK.

[2002BlackDragon]

Awesome advice! Then I'll be getting the NGK Iridium plugs. How about wires? I have seen some that come in a larger gauge. Does that matter? Or am I good sticking with NGK wires.

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[Silvertune]

Get NGK wires, consider no other option. The quality for the money is above any other option on the market and anything better is overkill. As far as plugs get either NGK iridium IX's or denso single platinums, Copper is for cars that see plug changes with the seasons or more. Also refresh the cap and rotor.

[6G72gearhead]

^^^ As he said, remember, you won't get hotter spark out of low resistance wires. Most of the time all you'll accomplish is getting some wicked radio interference. The reason for this is the spark gap acts kind of like a resistor, so once you produce the voltage needed to jump the spark gap, a factory wire with 7k ohms per foot resistance is suddenly insignificant. NGK wires will get the spark to the plug without creating a bunch of noise through your stereo.

[2002BlackDragon]

See... I got the stereo noise now. Never knew what caused that. And this is a dumb question, but what do you mean refresh?

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[M-Rod]

I would assume replace.

[2002BlackDragon]

That's what I was wondering. Or is there something I'm missing.

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[6G72gearhead]

When I refer to a 'refresh' on a car it can vary to an extent. When I refresh my racecar I do plugs, fluids, inspect brakes, belts and anything else that may need attention. For built race engines they may need a refresh between events, which can mean taking the engine down and inspecting the internals and replacing rings and bearings. Its more of a routine maintenance that is more involved then what a normal car would see for the purpose of keeping the performance level up to what is needed for competition. Some components may still be in spec and perfectly suitable for the purpose of a normal car, but under extreme environments they are replaced in order to avoid failures.

[2002BlackDragon]

So what your saying is I should inspect the cap and rotor? Gotcha

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[2002BlackDragon]

So when GalantDreamer was making fun of my car calling it Edward from Twilight thus is what he was referring to. Looks like a girl scout troop glittered me car. Lol







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[GalantDreamer3455]

LMAO hehehehe. I still laugh about our sister calling it Edward when we picked it up

[2002BlackDragon]

And this is what happens when you nail a deer at 60 mph in the fog.


Looking at the damage...





And when I tore into it and "fixed" it. Hoping it doesn't sit like this for too long. But we will have to see.

[2002BlackDragon]

Well I was doing an oil change today and noticed that the intake box was cracked. Probably from the accident. So I went ahead and installed my filter intake. Still working on getting the intake pipe to get rid of the plastic piping.