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Thread: Tranny kicks when changing gears "Automatic"

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  1. #1
    Shay1970
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    Tranny kicks when changing gears "Automatic"

    I have a 97 galant with 125,600+ an the tranny is kicking gears bad WHATS UP with that? This car is a fxcking nightmare. And the lifters sound like shyt! My old 87 caprice lasted longer w/ no probs. r.i.p. caprice..got wrecked =(

  2. #2
    You are here entirely tooo much!! 4-G-rim's Avatar
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    1st...when was the last time you did a transmission flush or even a ATF drain and fill? The "kicking" could be the result of it or the torque converter may be going bad. I would check the cooling lines to the tranny from the tranny radiator is not clogged....7g are notorious for this problem. Now...the lifter tick is a very common problem with Mitsu heads, even with the 4g63's, I currently have lifter tick on my 96. This could be the result of not changing the oil at the proper time. The only way to get rid of the "tick" is to replace the hydrualic lifters or just rebuild the head while you have it off.

    1991 Galant VR4 1948/2000_________1996 Galant "S" 5 speed 2.4L turbo

  3. #3
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    Take it to lee Myles or AMCOO or a local tranny guy and have it tested. Most likely your end clutch is ready to go. By the way have you noticed if the radio like shuts off and comes back on or the clock dims every so often.

    If they do you probably and most likely will have to have the tranny rebuilt. I had mine done the other day and was told that 2 sensors were bad causing the radio and clock problem. Also the end clutch was bad. Total cost 2200 not including I need to get a rental car. The job was fast about 7 days.

    Not it sooms. Tranny now has lots of power.

    Good luck

  4. #4
    Mindless
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rfpa1)</div><div class='quotemain'>Take it to lee Myles or AMCOO or a local tranny guy and have it tested. Â*Most likely your end clutch is ready to go. Â*By the way have you noticed if the radio like shuts off and comes back on or the clock dims every so often.

    If they do you probably and most likely will have to have the tranny rebuilt. Â* Â*I had mine done the other day and was told that 2 sensors were bad causing the radio and clock problem. Â*Also the end clutch was bad. Â* Total cost 2200 Â*not including I need to get a rental car. Â*The job was fast about 7 days.

    Not it sooms. Â*Tranny now has lots of power.

    Good luck</div>

    $2200!!?!?!??!! Is that a rebuild? Doood....do not I repeat do not bother rebuilding and don't let the mechanic "find" a tranny for you. Call around and find a tranny yourself. My tranny replacement last year cost me $1200 (labor and tranny). I admit my "new" tranny is starting to mess up but $2,200 is too much. If a mechanic ever gave me a quote like that I'd probably burn down his shop and then eat his children alive.....that's just ridiculous.

  5. #5
    if what u mean by changing gears, is when ur coming to a stop and u can feel it downshift and its a really hard thump/kick. well then those r ur belts. idk how, but when i fixed my belts, that problem stopped.


  6. #6
    Member
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    To be exact 2156.

    Its a remanufacture. The only item the use was the case of the tranny. Everything else was replaced. Also included a 55 mile tow.

    The dealer wanted around the same.

    That was the cheapest I found. Althought I could have gone to ajunk yard and pull one, I could not aford to have more problems at this time.

    I do plan to get a used tranny and engine and rebuilt both and have them sitting here for emergencies.

  7. #7
    STL95LS
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    Automatics

    I paid $1500 to have mine rebuilt doing all labor myself. I ran Valvoline max life ATF changing fluid and filter every 12k and the rebuild only lasted 18 months. If I had to do it again I would do a 5 speed swap.

  8. #8
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    One note:


    I understand about rebuilding and remanufacturing the tranny. Now in the group a lot of people are suggesting to switch to a manual tranny. I do not have any real problems with the switch.

    Now, to convert the Auto to Manual

    1) you need a number of parts that

    a) will need to be pulled from a junk
    order them form dealers
    c) make them

    2) you need to change the car, thus invalidating any and or all warranties left on the car, not counting that now your VIN # does not match your car and thus you can be in for a bad experience with DMV if you have problems later on.

    3) Insurance, you car was insured as an auto not as manual so you might have problems when working with insurance related problems.

    4) need to cut additional holes in the firewall to fit the booster and related parts.

    5) need to cut firewall to add the clutch leg

    6) need to add hardware to support the new manual tranny.

    7) and other parts, etc

    8) what about how long this will take

    9) what about the ECU and cables needed.

  9. #9
    You are here entirely tooo much!! peanotation's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rfpa1)</div><div class='quotemain'>One note:


    I understand about rebuilding and remanufacturing the tranny. Now in the group a lot of people are suggesting to switch to a manual tranny. Â*I do not have any real problems with the switch. Â*

    Now, to convert the Auto to Manual Â*

    1) you need a number of parts that Â*

    a) will need to be pulled from a junk Â*
    order them form dealers
    c) make them

    2) you need to change the car, thus invalidating any and or all warranties left on the car, not counting that now your VIN # does not match your car and thus you can be in for a bad experience with DMV if you have problems later on.

    3) Insurance, you car was insured as an auto not as manual so you might have problems when working with insurance related problems.

    4) need to cut additional holes in the firewall to fit the booster and related parts.

    5) need to cut firewall to add the clutch leg

    6) need to add hardware to support the new manual tranny.

    7) and other parts, etc

    8) what about how long this will take

    9) what about the ECU and cables needed.</div>

    or you could rebuild tranny and have it die on you again in a year and a half
    http://socallifestyle.com/

    1994 Galant GS 5spd

  10. #10
    Mindless
    Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rfpa1)</div><div class='quotemain'>One note:


    I understand about rebuilding and remanufacturing the tranny. Now in the group a lot of people are suggesting to switch to a manual tranny. Â*I do not have any real problems with the switch. Â*

    Now, to convert the Auto to Manual Â*

    1) you need a number of parts that Â*

    a) will need to be pulled from a junk Â*
    order them form dealers
    c) make them

    2) you need to change the car, thus invalidating any and or all warranties left on the car, not counting that now your VIN # does not match your car and thus you can be in for a bad experience with DMV if you have problems later on.

    3) Insurance, you car was insured as an auto not as manual so you might have problems when working with insurance related problems.

    4) need to cut additional holes in the firewall to fit the booster and related parts.

    5) need to cut firewall to add the clutch leg

    6) need to add hardware to support the new manual tranny.

    7) and other parts, etc

    8) what about how long this will take

    9) what about the ECU and cables needed.</div>

    1a. Ebay and dsmtrader.com are your friends
    1b. You'd be nuts to order any of these parts from the dealer. I tried to order some of my parts from the dealer and they acted like there was never a 5 speed galant made.
    1c. You wouldn't have to make anything.

    2. Warranties!?!?!! LMAO...dude I don't know what kind of warranty your car has, but mine is a '96. The only recent warranty that was on my car was the one for my new tranny and that expired 90 days after they installed it. As far as the VIN# thing...if your auto shits and you get another auto then your VIN#'s won't much anyway. I don't really see why this is a big deal.

    3. Not sure about the insurance, but I really can't see it making that much of a difference. Your car insurance is based on two "main" things: Your record and your car. True your car is now a 5 speed but come on it's still a galant.

    4. Yes you'd have to drill a couple of holes to attach the master and slave cylinders. There are some holes that your auto uses that you can use thereby eliminating drilling excess holes.

    5. To my knowledge you do not have to cut a hole in the firewall to install the new clutch / brake pedal assy. The holes to attach them pedal assy are alledgedly prestamped on the firewall. All you need to do is drill them out and install the assy.

    6. The only additional "hardware" needed to support the manual tranny is the front tranny mount. The top mount from your auto will work.

    7. Nuts, bolts, etc. If you get your main parts you should be able to pick up anything else you may need from autozone.

    8. Time will depend on the person. It'll probably take me the rest of the year to get it done.

    9. The only electronics you need is the back up light connector. It connects to one of the sensors on the tranny and the one for your auto won't work. There are two sensors on the tranny. One is the speed sensor and the other is, among other things, responsible for activating your back up lights when you throw it in reverse. You will have to splice the new connector into your existing wiring so your back up lights will work. Also, you will have to cut and connect two black wires together so your car will start after your done, but I'm not sure what / where these are yet.

    So far this is my parts list:

    tranny (of course)
    clutch kit (good idea to get an upgrade)
    flywheel (good idea to get an upgrade)
    Shifter (I'm going to use an OBX short shifter)
    Slave and master cylinders
    Shifter cables, plate, and linkage
    Shifter bushings (On the tranny. You can use OEM but I upgraded)
    Shifter base bushings (You can use OEM but I upgraded)
    Stainless Steel clutch line (An upgrade over the stock rubber hose)
    Clutch fork and fulcrom ball (good idea to replace before you put your tranny on)
    Front tranny mount and plate
    Back up light sensor
    Metal fluid line from tranny to slave cylinder

    Now I will say this....I have not done the swap yet and am sure I will run into problems. But when doing anything like this you're always going to run into problems. With that being said.....I would rather run into problems while swapping the tranny out rather than have a problem with my auto (again) a year from now and have to replace it.

    My grand total for parts so far is a little over $500. The clutch I want is going to runa bout $240 and the flywheel I want will run me about ($218). So I'll be right at $1k when it's all said and done, not counting little stuff that I'll end up having to buy during the swap.

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