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2002 Mitsubishi Galant GTZDid you also replace the cap and rotor?
awright, I am down to my last thread of patience with this and if anyone has an answer for this, I would be forever gratefull. I own a 1995 Mits Galant ES. She's a 2.4 L SOHC and there is just over 100,000 miles on it. anyways, the distributer went on it and I have already replaced it, but now I can't get her timed right. The best I can get her timed to is degraded 60 degrees off (in other words running veeery crappy)WTF I have tried everything. I have even taken the distro out, found TDC and started from scratch. Nothing. Is there something that I am missing here? I don't know were to go from here and I am down to the last of my options. If I don't have an answer soon, I am going to have to bite the ullet and take her in to the dealer. Help, please.
Did you also replace the cap and rotor?
Ya, I replaced, cap, rotor, plugs and wires on top of the distro (they were due anyways). None of the plugs I pulled out were fowled to not still be used, and the cap and rotor shown slight wear but again, not too much to not be used (but it was there time to be replaced anyways). nothing. Fuel checks out too seeing how I replaced the fuel pump about a month ago. Like I said, car runs, but I cannot get her timed right so she runs like crap.
maybe this will help. here are the symtoms in a nutshell (aside from not being able to get the timing mark on the damper pully to line up with the timing marks on the engine). Sputtering or eratic idle, lags on acceleration (almost like it will stall if I press the gas too hard), slight detonation if I drop the rpm too fast, very strong and rich exhaust. The distro for our cars only give you a certian amount of play. I have it advanced as far as it will go and the mark is still about 50-60 degrees off. I go the other direction, and she is so far degraded, that it will not even start. Could it be something else? I know it is slim, but slim is all I got right now. :cry:
wel the proper was to set base ignition timing is with a mitsubishi scan tool. there is a program in it that locks up the ecu's control of timing, and idle speed,
then you set the distributor mechanically.
after that you are good to go.
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1994 Galant GS-Turbo
I dont know if this is relevant but..... I did buy a brand new distributor and it gave out on me 2 days later.. Maybe you got a faulty one.. Or you put the rotor back on the wrong way (knowing that there is only one way for it to go on maybe you might have not put it back in the EXACT place that it was on the old distrubutor). Also i dont know if this would work but have you tried resetting your ECU??????????????
Or, mebby your car jumped time? Mine did, had the same symptoms as you're describing. I had the master tech I work with check it and he said that it just needed to be re-timed. Somehow there was enough adjustment adjustment in the distributor to bring the idle to almost normal. A week later the t-belt totally shreaded and took out the head. Just something to check...
Staying busy is important. After all, idle hands spend time at the genitles.
Yikes!, I hope not. I just had mine replaced about 6 months ago, but I will have the shop check it out if resetting the ECU doesn't do the trick. I didn't replace the belt myself but I always make it habbit to check the work.Originally Posted by 98ACR
[quote="Shadow19"]Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:54 am Post subject:
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I dont know if this is relevant but..... I did buy a brand new distributor and it gave out on me 2 days later.. Maybe you got a faulty one.. Or you put the rotor back on the wrong way (knowing that there is only one way for it to go on maybe you might have not put it back in the EXACT place that it was on the old distrubutor). Also i dont know if this would work but have you tried resetting your ECU?????????????? /quote]
No, nothing is installed wrong, but it is a valid point. One that I checked over and over. nothing. however, I did not reset the ECU, yet. I try that today after work and I will let you know how it works out.
Thanks, I was thinking of that too, but that would involve me paying shop charges, but I made an appt today at the dealer so if nothing else works I have plan B and the work will be under warrantee. Thanks again guys for all your input, now at least have an idea where to start looking. I will let you all know how everything works out by this Tuesday, and I hope everyone had a kickass 4th of July. 8)
the distributor only fits in one of 2 ways.. either its on, or its 180 degrees off. There is a timing mark on it to indicate when its at TDC. so what you need to do is get the engine to TDC, set the distributor to TDC, and install it.
theres nothing else to do. If you're 60 degrees off, your timing belt is incorrect.
well i found out what the problem was. The dealership was no help at all so after that, i decided to check the fuel lines again. Come to find out, one of the fuel lines were kinked! The mechanic who installed the fuel pump bent one of the fuel lines while removing the fuel pump from the tank. WTF. Fuel lines have already been replaced and she runs perfectly now. Just goes to show, you want a job done right, do it yourself. As for the reason the timing marks were off, the dicksnot who installed the timing belt installed the damper pully on wrong!! So there is no way of telling, with out a scantool, where my timing is at! I had the shop check everything he did and all else checks out. word to the wise, carefull who is working on your car. My only saving grace is that no money was lost out of this, only time. Thanks for the input guys.
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