7g(97/98): JiPs 2g ECU Swap tutorial.

[seth98esT]

Just a Copy paste since I have nowhere to host it:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>2g Turbo ECU SWAP for a Galant

WARNING: THIS CAN POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR CAR OR PARTS OF YOUR CAR. Â*ECU'S ARE VERY EXPENSIVE, SO ARE A LOT OF THE OTHER ITEMS WE WILL BE DEALING WITH. Â*THE INFORMATION PROVIDED HERE MAY NOT BE COMPLETE, YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. Â*THIS IS NOT FOR THE AMATEUR MECHANIC, SIMPLE STEPS ARE SKIPPED AND IT IS ASSUMED YOU OWN THE PARTS MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR. Â*IN SIMPLER TERMS, IF YOUR CAR EXPLODES ON YOU DON'T BLAME ME. Â*THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. Â*

Now this is very simple to do, a little time consuming to make the connections and keep the wiring neat. Â*Its easier to modify your stock wiring harness then it is to install a whole new one from a 2g. Â*There are very few problems that I cam across with this swap and I have fixed every one I have found so far all the fixes are posted here for your benefit.

You will need:

2g Turbo ECU 95 Eprom being the best, any 2g turbo ECU will do manual tranny models, auto models, AWD models.
450cc injectors from a 1g or 2g

Resistor pack for injectors

2g knock sensor
1g/2g Throttle body and ISC

Coil pack and Power transistor.

ECU Pins from to install new wires, and plenty of wire for new connections. Â*And the assortment of normal tools to remove bolts, few shop rags, soldering iron, etc..

There is a Â*problem that comes from the Galant cam sensor, which is where your distributor cap is. Â*You will be removing the cap and rotor, however the rest of the assembly will stay in place, the cam sensor is the part left along with the old firing coil.

The Galant sensor outputs only once per revolution, while the 1g/2g/Spyder style sensors output twice per revolution. Â*Without the second output the ECU will get confused and WILL run your car, but after you turn the car off you will not be able to start it again and your Check Engine light comes on. Â*If you clear the error code (Cam sensor malfunction) you will be able to start it right up, if not it will crank but never start.

I have figured out a way to create a new sensor plate that will output twice per revolution using part from the 1g 93-94 style sensor which you can get on eBay for around $20. Â*I have been driving with this new plate/ECU for about 4 months with absolutely no problems. Â* The fix is here! Â*I suggest doing this after everything else has been done and after you have gotten the car to start a few times (with a data logger to clear the error code between starts. Â*No data logger then might as well do the cam fix.)</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>2g Turbo ECU SWAP for a Galant...1

Properly relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump connector under the back seat and crank the engine and let it run until it dies which should only take a few seconds if it even starts at all. Â*Turn the car off, and plug the fuel pump connector back in. Â*This is the last time you will crank the car until we are done.

You have 2 choices with the wiring, you could buy matching connectors from a junkyard and splice those in, or you can solder wires directly to the pins of the power transistor, extend the wires of the coilpack and knock sensor, resistor pack etc... Â*That's what I did cause I'm cheap. Â*When I say good amount of slack don't be stingy! Â*Leave at least 6" more wire then you need. Â*Read through everything first before you do it.

1) Â*Start with the knock sensor install. Â*Behind cylinder 2 on the engine block there are 2 spaces where you could screw in the knock sensor, choose the one closer to the top. Â*Its a really bad area and really hard to do with the intake manifold there. Â*I suggest removing the intake manifold bracket and then you can stick your whole arm behind the intake manifold and screw in the sensor. Â*Its a weird size so you'll have to find a wrench that fits, I used a good old plumbers slide wrench. Â*DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT. Â*Get it snug I'm talking like 3ft lbs of torque, just a tad more then finger tight. Â*It may be a bitch to get it in if the threads in the block are all rusty so do your best.

Now grab the connector and cut it off and lengthen the black wire enough so that you can bolt it down to the firewall or any good ground point. Â*USING SHIELDED WIRE lengthen the red (or white) wire, ground the shielding on it and bring the wire into the car through the same large rubber grommet the main harness comes through. Â*Use a screw driver or something to poke a hole in the rubber and feed the wire through. Â*Make sure your connections are good, solder is the best idea, and use lots of tape to weather proof them. Â*The wire should be long enough to reach the ECU with a good amount of extra slack. Â*Label that wire we'll go back to it later.

2) Â* Take any ignition switched power line, they are almost always a BLACK/WHITE STRIPE wire, I used one straight from the ignition switch, tap it and run the wire to the ECU with a good amount of slack. Â*This will be the "turn on" power supply for the ECU. Â*Make sure it is ignition switched power NOT ACCESSORY. Â*The wire must stay 12v while cranking, ACC wire gets ground during crank which would turn your ECU off thus you would never be able to start your car. Â*Label it and leave it.

3) Â*Remove the old ECU and remove the plugs from the ECU, remove the plug from the smaller box under the ECU (fuel controller), remove the little clip on on the firewall that holds the main harness strapped in this will give you more slack in the harness to make life easier. Â*To remove or install a pin into the ECU connectors you need a safety pin or small flat headed jewelers screw driver. Â*Pop up the white strip, then you stick the safety pin into the front of the harness and have to pry up a lil plastic tab, while doing this pull the wire out and it slides right out. Â*To install a pin, just slide the pin in. Â*When your done push the white strips back down that locks everything in place.

Using this diagram do the following:


* Move the following pins for the fuel injectors:

Â* Â*Yel/blue wire Â* Pin 1 to 14
Â* Â*Blue/green Â*Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Â* Â*Lt Green/White Â*Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Â* Â*Yel/Black Â*Pin 14 is now Pin 15

* Move White wire Pin 31 to pin 58. Â*This is the Tach signal wire.

* Take the Knock sensor wire that you ran and crimp on a small ECU pin and install that wire in location 78

* Take the ignition signal wire crimp a large ECU pin to it and install it to pin 82.

* Take a wire crimp a small connector to it and install in location 23. Â*Run this wire out of the main harness grommet into the engine bay. Â*This will go to the coil packs so run it to the area where you plan to mount the packs.

Take the 4g64 ECU and remove the cover, then remove the 4 screws holding down the circuit board. Do the same to the 2g ECU. Â*Place the 2g ECU circuit board onto the old metal bottom from the 4g64 and screw it down. Â*But use the cover from the 2g ECU over it. Â*The reason is that the 4g64 mounting bracket is different, so we need the bottom piece of the 4g64 ECU case to keep the same mounting location, but we want the cover that came with the ECU so that anyone who works on the car has the proper part numbers.

Reinstall the fuel controller connector and the ECU connecters to the NEW 2g ECU. Â*You can put it back in place but probably better to leave it out until your sure things are working smooth.

Go under the hood and REMOVE the connectors to the distributor and the 2 wire connector for the coil (next to the distributor connector). Â*Now turn the key to ON DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE, JUST TURN TO ON POSITION Â*Pay attention to the dash lights. Â*The battery light, Check engine light, SRS lights come on and should all turn off after a few seconds. Â*If the check engine light NEVER illuminates when the key turns to ON then the ECU is not getting power at pin 82 (ignition wire) check the voltage on that line, if it reads 12v then your ECU is probably busted. Â*If everything checks out, turn it off and take the key out so no one accidentally starts it.

Now the rest of the work is in the engine bay the ECU side is done.</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>2g Turbo ECU SWAP for a Galant...2

Fuel injectors. This part gets a little messy and dangerous.

Start by removing the connectors on the injectors. Â*Cut the Black/Red stripe wires on all 4 of them leaving enough on both sides to reconnect to other wires. Â*Take your resistor pack mount it somewhere on the firewall. Â*Take the single RED or WHITE wire lengthen it and connect all 4 of the Black/Red wires from the ECU side to this wire. Â*Take the remaining Black/Red wires coming out of the injector harness's and connect each to a separate wire from the resistor pack.

Now remove the bolts holding the fuel rail down and pull it out of the engine, there is enough slack in fuel lines to be able to pull the rail up and twist it up to remove the injectors without removing the fuel lines. Â*Lay down shop towels under the rail because when you remove the injectors fuel will spill out. Â*Pull out all 4 injectors and install the new 450cc injectors with NEW o-rings. Â*Once in place put the fuel rail back in the engine and bolt it down, and finally reconnect the injector harness's.

Â*

ISC AND THROTTLE BODY

Take the 1g/2g ISC the pins are as follows staring at the ISC itself.

Above pin 2 is the little clip where the connector locks in.

1 Â*2 Â*3 Â* Â*

4 Â*5 Â*6

With that said, remove the connector from the 4g64 IAC, and remove the throttle body from the car. Â*Install the 1g or 2g Throttle body and connect the wires from the 4g64 IAC connector to the 1g/2g ISC like this:

On the 1g ISC connect both pins 2 and 5 to the single red or white wire from the resistor pack. Â*This is power to the ISC.

Pin 1 of the ISC goes to the Blue/Yellow stripe wire on the 4g64 IAC connector

Pin 3 of the ISC goes to Green/Black

Pin 4 of the ISC goes to White

Pin 6 of the ISC goes to Green

Â*

Â*

Now you have the ISC hooked up, the Fuel injectors are installed the only thing left is to wire in the ignition coils and power transistor and start her up.</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>2g Turbo ECU SWAP for a Galant...3

I strapped my coilpacks down to the top of the intake manifold. Â*Probably not the best place but I plan to go DOHC soon and will have the correct mounting area. Â*You will have to figure something out the coils cant be against the firewall or the wires to the spark plugs wont reach, and there isnt any place to bolt them in on the Galant intake manifold like there is on the Spyder 4g64. Â*Whatever you figure out, wire it up as follows:

The Power transistor is labeled under the pins. Â*

Connect ground pin 3 to ground

The connector from the Galant distributor has 5 wires. Â*

Cut the WHITE wire extend and connect it to pin 7 of the power transistor.

Take the wire we installed to the ECU at location 23 and connect that to pin 2 of the power transistor.

On the 2 pin connector from the distributor coil, extend and connect the WHITE wire to pin 4 of the power transistor (Tach signal)

Take the Black/white strip wire from the 2 pin connector extend and connect it to pin 6 (Vcc) This is power supply to the Power Transistor.

Connect pin 1 of the power transistor to one of the coil pack red or white wires.

Connect pin 8 of the power transistor to the other wire red or white depending which you chose the first time

And finally connect the Black/White strip wire from the coilpack to the same Black/White strip wire that goes to pin 6 of the power transistor.

The small box with a screw hole that is mounted on the coil bracket should be grounded.

Â*

Connect the Galant distributor harness back in, there should still be 4 wires left in it, the other 2 pin connecter should have been clipped off completely when the wires where used and that of course doesn't go back. Â*The remaining 4 wires in the distributor connector are used for the cam sensor which is why that harness must go back.

This is the tricky part, the ignition coil wires from the coilpack to the spark plugs basically have to figure out their order by trial and error. Â*There are 2 coils each coil has 2 posts to accept 2 wires. Â*Connect the wire for spark plugs 1 and 4 to one coil, and 2 and 3 to the other coil. Â*Now go try to start the car. Â*If it starts up great, if it sounds like its not even attempting to start, then go back and swap the coils around. Â*The wires you have on 1 coil move them to the other. still keeping 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together just on opposite coils from before. Â*No turn the key to ON position make sure there is no Check engine light, if there is its from before because of the cam sensor, clear this error with a data logger or remove the negative battery cable for 10 seconds and replace, and start the car it should start right up this time.

If all is well go ahead and fix the cam sensor (for SOHC guys)
</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>2g Turbo ECU SWAP for a Galant...FINISH

If your not starting up see if there are any error codes. Â*If there is one for the cam sensor you MUST clear it before the car will start. Â*If you don't have a data logger you can remove the negative battery cable for 10 seconds to clear the code.

If there are no CE's take a volt meter and check the voltage at the fuel pump while the car is being cranked. Â*If there is no voltage present you will have to do the fuel pump rewire to completely bypass that little fuel controller located under the ECU. Â*This is something the Spyder 4g64 drivers have to do and SOME Galant drivers have to and some don't no one knows why yet. Â*Pull the connector off the fuel controller and cut the two Black/Blue stripped wires off, one is fatter then the other. Â*Take those two wires and tie them together and then proceed with the fuel pump rewire EXACTLY as it says. REWIRE Â*After this step you should now have fuel pump pumping, and should be able to verify this by using a volt meter while cranking. Â*At this point if it doesn't start go ahead and swap the spark plug wires to the opposite coils and try again being sure to clear any CE's that may come up.

Also you MUST be using 450cc injectors even if your non turbo. Â*The 2g Turbo ECU is tuned for 450cc and it just wont start up with anything less. Â*You will defiantly need an AFC to lean things out or when you floor the peddle your run massively rich and your car will just bog down and hesitate badly before picking up.

Beauty of this is that you get an ECU tuned for a turbo charger and DOHC head, with knock control and ready for large injectors so that you save a huge amount of money on having to buy after market knock control and things like that for a turbo setup. Â*For anyone wanting to go DOHC you have absolutely no choice but to swap ECU's because a Galant uses a distributor. Â*Spyder drivers don't have to swap ECUs for DOHC head swap because they use coil packs not distributor on their 4g64.
</div>

[bronxbombr]

Nice going Seth!

[Sleepervr-4]

Thank god I found this!!!! Trust me never install 555cc on our stock ecu. It is a nightmare to get them tuned in.

[milo111000]

SOB!! anybody tried this tutorial yet?? looks very complicated. not like programing ecu isn't complicated enough.. that's prolly the main reason why alot of guys just go all motor. hahhaha

[Sleepervr-4]

SOB!! anybody tried this tutorial yet?? looks very complicated. not like programing ecu isn't complicated enough.. that's prolly the main reason why alot of guys just go all motor. hahhaha

Not me I just used the resistor part.

[milo111000]

yup like what the guy said about messing with ur ecu.. major probs if not done right.. i don't know..but good info for the advanced tuners though.. not good for me or people with zero o less knowledge on ecu programing.. not good cause if we end up trying and failing then comes the blaming...

[seth98esT]

I followed this tutorial for my swap...

And nobody is "programming an ecu". And if you started this project without the proper research and you failed, theres nobody to blame but yourself

[THE-G]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>ISC AND THROTTLE BODY

Take the 1g/2g ISC the pins are as follows staring at the ISC itself.

Above pin 2 is the little clip where the connector locks in.

1 2 3

4 5 6

With that said, remove the connector from the 4g64 IAC, and remove the throttle body from the car. Install the 1g or 2g Throttle body and connect the wires from the 4g64 IAC connector to the 1g/2g ISC like this:

On the 1g ISC connect both pins 2 and 5 to the single red or white wire from the resistor pack. This is power to the ISC.

Pin 1 of the ISC goes to the Blue/Yellow stripe wire on the 4g64 IAC connector

Pin 3 of the ISC goes to Green/Black

Pin 4 of the ISC goes to White

Pin 6 of the ISC goes to Green </div>


im not doing the ecu swap or nething im just trying to wire in the 1g isc to my car do i need the resistor pack for it to work with my 7g ecu

[4g64terror]

so who is the guy that originally did this? i wanna contact him

[XXL4G64]

hey seth is this the only way to do it because im lazy LMAO

[RedLine DOHC]

I know the tread has been dead for a year but.....I drive a 94 gs...I have coils and a 90mm TB do I still need to swap those out to do this swap? and with running a new ecu power wire...is that necessary or could the current one be repined? with the ecu would running low independence injectors still require the resistor pack? if so could high independence injectors be used in there place? and finally if i do this and my turbo at the same time (I have a 14b sitting in a box in my closet) i can just use all stock components for intake (IE. recirculate BOV) and be totally set?

[mko]

No dont have to change a thing. Your car is already set the way it is. you have the knock sensor and coil packs. For 94-95 guys its easier to swap out to Evo 2-3 ECU since the ECU pinout is the same for the most part. There are still some turbo stuff that need to be done - FPR solenoid, Wastegate solenoid....

As of the injectors you need DSM low impedance 450cc and a resistor pack. Any DSM or EVO injectors require the resistor pack. Or you can use the Subaru 440cc which are high impedance, but require different plug. But you need some fuel management device like MAFT gen2 or SAFC to tune down the bigger injectors since the ECU is made for 275cc.

You can use everything off DSM, 2g manifold and o2 sensor housing, 2g downpipe, but 1g blow off valve. the 2g BOVs are plastic and they are prone to leaks.

[RedLine DOHC]

ok... so my non turbo has the knock support already there? and the FPR and wastegate are a total given...I will go internal waste gate untell I have the money for the nice shit...(i read the tial makes the best) I can get the set up working with stock parts then inprove from there on

The evo 2-3 ecu....same thing as 2g swap w/ different pin set...will the evo ecu cover the 450 evo ijectors through the stock wires or would i need to put a resitor pack in the middle? could i use this on my stock injector before i turbo? the ecu that is.
with an evo ecu...anythoughts on DSM link...read some good but just as many bad


Parts I still Need:
manifold
injectors
resetor pack
turbo dump
down pipe
MAFT and maf
Intercooler and piping
2G TB elbow
BOV
Wide band
EGT
and from the sound of things an evo 2-3 ecu
(wow looks like alot but I think I might buy the stuff in the link early next month so I have tell spring to get the other few things....I'm excited) lol





http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ory_Code=TRBUK

this is the turbo set up I want...it expencive as hell but its also brand new, it also covers my FMIC and some of the oil feed lines.

as for the 2g oil pan GSX GST? are they the same...
I know the GST down pipe fits, same for pan?

[mko]

EVO 1-3

[RedLine DOHC]

o forgot.... Waste gate solenoid activation by the ecu?? any point with PSI based boost where the waste gate is opened at the stock actuator setting

[mko]

If you use any Mitsu injectors youll need resistor pack. Evo 1-3 run with 510cc and 16g turbos, but you can detune to 450cc.

External wastegate is ok to do, but no real benefits. Its mostly used by 8g guys, cuz they clearance issues. We use DSM stuff and there are no issues - everything is a bolt on. You get 7cm housing or you port the 6cm housing to reduce boost creep, no need of external setup. Everything depends on how fast the exhaust gases leave the tubro. If its slow then you get boost creep, but on the other hand the speed and volume of 4g64 gases is much faster and bigger than 4g63, so our engine spools the turbo much faster.

IDk which Evo ECU you meant, but any other Evo Ecu like 8 or 9 requires extensive rewiring to make it work for our 94-95 cars. So is the 90-94 turbo Eclipse ECUs. Evo 1-3 ECU is pretty much P'n'P.

IDk what you meant by turbo dump....maybe o2 housing. Yo ucan get either 2g housing and port it, or some aftermarket one like megan brand.

2g TB Elbow is useless unless you have that style TB - 1g and 2g turbo TB. GS comes with a standard 60mm N/A TB.

2g GST and GSX have the same oil pans

And the link you posted.......dont buy a whole kit....they are shit anyway. If you buy things separately from other DSM forums or Ebay, and buy only original DSM parts youll save a couple of hundreds. The ebay turbos are crap although it may say mitsubishi on them. The best way to distinguish the real turbos is by serial number and the MHI lettering on them.

useful sites:

DSM trader
DSM tuners /Classifieds
Mistu Trader
Galant Vr4.org
Ebay Motors
Team 2g
Craigslist
any local DSM sites

[mko]

o forgot.... Waste gate solenoid activation by the ecu?? any point with PSI based boost where the waste gate is opened at the stock actuator setting

No just the ECU activates a solenoid that introduces boost to the wastegate. Same as the FPR, but the solenoid introduces vacuum to the FPR.

Usually the factory setting of the wastegate spring is 8 psi

[RedLine DOHC]

so with a manual boost controller I could just by pass this altogether then? going closed loop so to speak with the turbo regulating it self
I posted a tutorial on flow maps a while back and with a 14b turbo the best flow(CFM in relation VME at 500rpm increments)-per-boost was 10 psi for the 2.4 so i will have to do it for the 16g and see what i get when i factor in 450cc injectors

[mko]

Right now you need:

- 14b/16g turbo
- 2g exhaust manifold
- manifold gasket
- turbo to manifold gasket
- heat shield
- 2g O2 housing
- o2 housing gasket
- new turbo bolts
- 2G 3'' downpipe
- downpipe gasket
- j-pipe
- j-pipe gasket
- 1G BOV
- 1g BOV weld on flange
- bov gasket
- 2G oil pan
- oil pan RTV
- 2 x Oil return to oil pan gasket
- 2g or Evo 8/9 fuel pump
- boost controller
- 2.5'' ic piping
- 2.5'' couplers
- t bolt clamps
- FMIC
- 1G oil return line
- oil feed line (for a 2G)
- 450cc injectors
- 1G resistor pack
- Maft of SAFC
- fuel rail fitting
- Aeromotive fuel regulator
- misc. lines and hoses
- wideband
- boost gauge

This was the list i used. You can boost w/o the Evo ECU you just need to detune the bigger injectors

[RedLine DOHC]

so with the ecu swap its really 6 of one 1/2 dozen the other in this case...

this ok for 16G
http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-I...duct_info.html


like i said i have a 14b w/ j-pipe here but it needs a new turbine and a rebuild... so thinking just buy a new one and save money in the long run.

seems like a big list untell you break it down... like I said I want to do the swap this spring when I can be out side and not freeze.

this is why I became a mechanic for the military..... the damn turbo just bolts on and the damn thing runs.