7G Rear Drum to Disk (4 lug to 5 lug)

[Blue Ice]

First off let me say that if you do any of what i'm going to tell you it's at your own risk. It worked for me, but it possibly may not work for you.

Parts needed for conversion.

1. Rear Caliper and mounting brackets from 2g Eclipse or a GS Galant; you can get the calipers from the local auto parts store, but they don't sell the mounts, you'll need to check a dealer or a junk yard. You'll aslo need to get mounting bolts from the dealer.

2. Rear Disk Backing Plate and emergency break system; The emergency break system has been referred to as "drum in disk" in other posts. If you buy all the parts brand new from the dealer, (like i did) then you'll have to put this system together. I've never done anything like this before, so it took me about an hour to assemble the first one, and then 25 min to do the second.

3. Break pads
4. Rear rotors
5. 5 lug hub assembly from 2g GST

There is another tutorial that talks about needing different Ebrake cables; the stock cables will fit so you don't need to buy e-brake cables like i did.
I also didn't need to buy any new brake lines or connectors. The system that connects to the drums wil also connect to the disks.

Tools needed.
Socket; 14mm. Wrench; 10 mm, 8mm open or closed end. Breaker or Cheater bars, Liquid wrench, A drill and bit large enough to help open the housing for the ebrake cable. And a Big Hammer. A cup or can for draining brake fluid. Blue thread locker. Pliers


1. Start by removing the wheels. (if you really needed that step, you should stop right now!!)
2. Make sure the E brake is not engaged, and then remove the drum cover.
3. Disconnect the brake line, 10 mm, and drain the brake fluid into you're can.

I would suggest using liquid wrench on all bolts after this point.

4. Using the 14mm, socket remove the bolts that hold the rear hub assembly in. you also might use the cheater or the breaker bar to get started.
5. When all bolts are removed, use your big hammer to "coax" the hub assembly and drum backing plate off.

6. Find where the E-brake cable hooks into the arm that engages the e-brake. Seperate the drum pad from the backing plate and you'll see the tip of the ebrake cable. It has a squared tip that holds it in place. Using your pliers, pull the tip toward you and away from the arm.

I actually just took the drum pad off. It makes it easier to get too.
Pull the cord far enough to lift the cable out of the bend in the arm. With the cable free you'll then have to get the cable housing out of the old backing plate. There is a small clip that holds it in place.
7. To get the old cable to fit into the new backing plate, you'll need to drill, sand, or whatever to make the cable housing in the new backing plate bigger. It doesn't have to be a lot, casue the cable almost fits, just enough to get the cable in.

8. The "drum in disk" e-brake system looks like a smaller version of the drum system you just disassembled. Connect the cable to the new arm in the same manner that it was connected in the drum. pliers (to figure out which plate goes to which side, the e-brake should enter the plate from the bottom front)
9. This is a where you would switch to the new hub assembly. You'll have to hold the hub and the backing plate up too the knuckle and get two bolts started. 14mm I was able to do this by myself, but if you need help get some one to hold it for you. I put two bolts in place just to hold it while i went back and put thread locker on the other two and tightened them down. then went back and thread locked the first two bolts.

10. After putting the rotors on,mount the caliper to the backing plate using the mounting bolts. 14mm

11. You'll have to remove the clip that holds the brake line to the knuckle. 10 mm i think I just twisted the brake line to upside down to where the brake line would connect to the caliper. It should screw right in. Just make sure you get it tight enough to where the brake cable tip sets right against the tip inside the cailiper.
12. Bleed your brakes when you have completed both sides. 8mm At the time i did my brakes, i also switched the front from 4 to 5 lug, so i needed to bleed my whole system. I'm not sure if you need to bleed the whole system if you're just doing the rear, but i'm just going to suggest it.

I'll probably be making edits to this as time goes by, in the event that i have for gotten something.[img][/img]

[Blue Ice]

Not too sure if everyone knows this.

Important when assembling or reassembling you're calipers there are two types of bolts, a guide bolt and a locking bolt.
The locking bolt has a rubber part aroung the tip, the guide bolt does not. On the caliper itself next to the hole where the bolt goes in, there is an L on one side and a G on the other. Yes. you guessed it!! The L is for Lock and the G is for Guide.

I am only posting this because after taking my front brakes apart, my right front caliper was jammed and i couldn't get the bolts out. After furthur inspection i noticed that the bolts were in the wrong location. To this point the only people that had worked on my brakes were "professionals". This was also probably the reason i kept going through rotors.

Again just a little fyi.

[SamirDarji]

Great writeup! Did you feel any real difference?

[Blue Ice]

Before i started the project, i heard a few opinions, which may be fact, that the stock rear drum actually helps to stop better than the stock rear disk. I haven't done any engine mods to add enough HP to notice the difference in actual stopping ability. I had to slam on them once or twice, and when i did the responded wonderfully. Kept me from having a wreck. Also i ended up destroying my front speed sensors for my abs, but i haven't needed that either.

I wanted to do the conversion so it will be easier to do down the line when i want to upgrade. More choices for the eclipse set up than a 7g, and braggin rights.

[gottmanMR]

This should be made as a sticky

[cardude03]

not just a sticky, but moved to the tutorial page as well.

[naughtika03]

hi.. just a Q.. since the 7G in Oz are JDM, they are practically d same as USDM G's.. difference is the JDM being a v6 and USDM i4 (with the v6 30kg heavier than 4G64!? - correct me please)..

anyway... regarding this mod.. does anybody know what are the part numbers for 2g Eclipse 5 Lug Hub assembly <-- For Reference... cause I was looking at www.dba.com.au <-- they are the common suppliers of rotors here in Oz, they have a list of Parts, Year and Model of car, In the model section it shows FTO / Eclipse.. so I'm guessing/assuming they are the same... If they are.. then it would be easier to get them here in Oz, Can someone please verify this for me?

I've copied a link for you guys to see..

http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/H.../Mitsubishi.pdf

[DOHCstunr]

just as a heads up here.

if you want to keep your stock 4 lug so you can keep your wheels and such. get the eclipse rear disc setup like mentioned in the tutorial, order you a rear rotor and pads for a 7g(4lug) and install them the same as mentioned in this tutorial.
that should help keep costs down and make it more "do-able" and affordable for you guys that alread invested in wheels and front brakes for your g.

[DOHCstunr]

drums can have more stopping force, but have no way to efficiently shed heat. so one stop might work well, but repeated stops or one long stop and your gonna see some fade.

discs cool faster. and since braking is turning mechanical energy into heat, since discs cool faster, they are going to be more efficient at the process. especially in traffic or other heavy use/repeated conditions

[DrewPinoy85]

Hey Blue Ice thanks for the tutorial! I'm actually getting ready to do this too.
Would you happen to have the part numbers for the backing plate and e-brake system, the hub/bearing assemblies, and the caliper mounting brackets? And what was the dealers price on those parts, respectively? I've checked out online retail parts stores and got some quotes from some salvage yards but I'm curious what the dealer charges. Thanks!

[Blue Ice]

Hey Blue Ice thanks for the tutorial! I'm actually getting ready to do this too.
Would you happen to have the part numbers for the backing plate and e-brake system, the hub/bearing assemblies, and the caliper mounting brackets? And what was the dealers price on those parts, respectively? I've checked out online retail parts stores and got some quotes from some salvage yards but I'm curious what the dealer charges. Thanks!

Honestly i got kind of rapped going through the dealer, if i had to do it all over i'd get the parts form the JY.

Plus when you get the parts form the dealer they sell you EVERYTHING ITEMIZED, you get the springs, drum pads, drum brace, backing plate, e-brake arm, all the little springs, the little spring seats, the upper coil springs, the lower coil spring, and then once you have all the parts... you have to assemble it.
Everything you see in this picture i had to put together.


I think the first one took and Hour, the second one took 20 min.

[peanotation]

great, i'm in the same boat as you. i just ordered all the e-brake components from the mitsu oem site, and i have to build it from scratch. did you go off your oem drum e-brake for reference? i know it's not identical setup, but the overall idea would be the same ya? the service manual is not very helpful in this department.....

[Blue Ice]

great, i'm in the same boat as you. i just ordered all the e-brake components from the mitsu oem site, and i have to build it from scratch. did you go off your oem drum e-brake for reference? i know it's not identical setup, but the overall idea would be the same ya? the service manual is not very helpful in this department.....

Well i went to the dealer, and the guy there made a print out of all the parts and kind of how it assembles. i really referenced that and pictures of a finished one. If you're going to do it yourself i'd say get a spring loading tool. it will help a great deal as the two springs on top are really strong, and they are counter loaded.

You're original e-brake cable will work, so don't go out and buy new cables like i did. Let me know if you need more pics, i've got a lot more of different stuff whilei did the rear drum change.


What OEM sight did you go too??

[peanotation]

great, i'm in the same boat as you. i just ordered all the e-brake components from the mitsu oem site, and i have to build it from scratch. did you go off your oem drum e-brake for reference? i know it's not identical setup, but the overall idea would be the same ya? the service manual is not very helpful in this department.....

Well i went to the dealer, and the guy there made a print out of all the parts and kind of how it assembles. i really referenced that and pictures of a finished one. If you're going to do it yourself i'd say get a spring loading tool. it will help a great deal as the two springs on top are really strong, and they are counter loaded.

You're original e-brake cable will work, so don't go out and buy new cables like i did. Let me know if you need more pics, i've got a lot more of different stuff whilei did the rear drum change.


What OEM sight did you go too??

shoot....do you still have the pictures you worked off of? the service manual gives the vaugest outline ever...if you could send me everything you've got i'd love you forever....

this is the site: https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html

[Jeffylou87]

Already have rear discs :D

[peanotation]

Already have rear discs :D

[peanotation]

hey blueice you got those e-brake pics? any would help..... i think i'm gonna do this next week....if i ever finish kimya's tranny swap first

[Blue Ice]

yeah bro, i was thinking about you today and trying to find those pics. How close are you to a mitsu dealership. I had the guy print out a parts "schematic". It shows evey piece dissasembled but with dashes to where it goes. I'd try there first.

My garage is so trashed i doubt i'd be able to find it. I did that swap 2 years ago.

If you can't get that this is what i did.

Lay every piece and divid left side from right side. If you look at the picture i reposted (above)you'll see the majority of the parts and how it assembles. All of the parts are held to the backing plate in by spring. and the backing plate is held on by the hub bearing. i'll post the pics i have of my swap, and thursday i'll look for the "schematic."

[Blue Ice]

i think i took this picture so it could possibly help others.
There are two " T " small rods the come from the back side of the plate. one spring goes around it and the spring "hat" ( notched washer looking ) is what you see on the sides.

This is the right hand side. the brake mount to the right. The E-cable inters from the bottom. you can see the canal just above the bottom spring. The lighter silver bracket just under thee-brake pad(left side of pic) is the ebrake arm. the canal points to the cable seat.

the golden cylinder below the bottom spring adjust the width of the e-brake when it's in the free position. The middle where the "teeth" are adjust the whloe ebrake system to a more open or closed positon. It' will need to be more closed to get the rotor over the ebrake. the spring above it keeps it from turning.

Hope this helps. i'll post some other random pics too.

[Blue Ice]