Oil filters

[RedGalant2k1]

WIX, AMSoil, OEM FTW.

Fram was what I always used in my S10, I never had any issues oil or air. They always worked great.

[4-G-rim]

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html

Comparison of several brand oil filters. Detailed contruction and materials used in each filter and each tested.

[6G72gearhead]

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html

Comparison of several brand oil filters. Detailed contruction and materials used in each filter and each tested.

I posted the extended version earlier.


Fram is absolutely the worst filter on the market, I work at an autoparts store and have actually had to warrenty out several fram filters that have literally had the element get sucked halfway out the filter.

It comes down to this Fram sucks big floppy donkey dick end of story.

Wix, Purolator, and Champion labs.

Wix makes, Napa filters, both silver and gold, and some OEM

Champion makes, Super Tech (yes the wal-mart filter isnt to bad), Mobil 1, Car and Driver, Deutsch, STP, and some mitsubishi and mopar OEM filters

Purolator makes, OE Ford, PowerFlo, ProLine, and other Mitsubishi and mopar filters

Fram makes, shit.

[polishmafia]

It comes down to this Fram sucks big floppy donkey dick end of story.

thank you.

[RedGalant2k1]

I used fram for years without any issues.

Though OEM filters are a must when available IMO.

[badmitsu]

Well, i still think Frams the shit...194k and still waxing ppls asses on my way home from work everyday!

I guess things are a little different in the South cuz everyone i know uses Fram.
People around here swear by the shit.

I personally have never had any probs on any of my other vehicles,wifes Ford Taurus using one right now, 116k on hers.

So FRAM FTW!! :smt038

[9G]

Fram filters have the worse filtration.

Puralator PureOne filters are what I use...one of the best filtrations and has the same "anti drain back" feature like the OEM filters have.

Can't go wrong with genuwine Mitsubishi oil filters also

Yup.

[6G72gearhead]

Well, i still think Frams the shit...194k and still waxing ppls asses on my way home from work everyday!

I guess things are a little different in the South cuz everyone i know uses Fram.
People around here swear by the shit.

I personally have never had any probs on any of my other vehicles,wifes Ford Taurus using one right now, 116k on hers.

So FRAM FTW!! :smt038

Lets compare compression test results, now my motor has a few less miles on it, but it has seen more cone courses then probably anyone elses car on this site, I have used nothing but Royal Purple oil and a Wix filter, after working at jiffy lube, and seeing how many problems came from just the filters alone, I wouldnt touch fram, its only a matter of time.

So, compression test.

Front bank Rear Bank
#1: 190 psi #2: 190 psi
#3: 195 psi #4: 190 psi
#5: 190 psi #6: 190 psi

Notice the consistancy. Now I use an oil, RP that has additives to help reduce friction at sustained high rpms, this is overkill for most of you drag racers, that stay in it for at longest 18 seconds. On an average course my engine never drops below 4k for up to 70 seconds at a time, and it stays up there for 15 minutes at a time at Heartland park. And to add the final piece to the puzzle, I use a filter that keeps contaminates out of the engine like it should.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Don't waste your money on Mobil 1. It's not real synthetic oil any more. Just go do a Google search, you'll find what I'm talking about. It's legal in the US to advertise Group III-based oil as "synthetic," even though only Group IV+ oils are synthetic. The only Mobil 1 oil that for sure is still synthetic is the 0W-40 for German cars - it's certified BMW LL (Long Life) which means it has to be synthetic. Just don't come to my local Checker and buy all the 0W-40 when you don't have an engine that calls for a real synthetic

[6G72gearhead]

Don't waste your money on Mobil 1. It's not real synthetic oil any more. Just go do a Google search, you'll find what I'm talking about. It's legal in the US to advertise Group III-based oil as "synthetic," even though only Group IV+ oils are synthetic. The only Mobil 1 oil that for sure is still synthetic is the 0W-40 for German cars - it's certified BMW LL (Long Life) which means it has to be synthetic. Just don't come to my local Checker and buy all the 0W-40 when you don't have an engine that calls for a real synthetic

None of the main synthetic oil brands are synthetic anymore. That still doesnt mean that they arent better then a conventional oil. The fact still remains that they have an additive package in them that reduces the tendency to become acidic when the oil starts to break down. Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, base Royal Purple, all conventional stock with a heavy synthetic additive package. There are very few people on this site with built enough engines or that run them hard enough to need anything more. Base Mobil Clean 5000 is not the same as their "full synthetic". And yes the extra additives are worth it.

Your kinda like me in that you really do need a true synthetic oil as our heat cycles are often more aggressive then other members of this site. For you I'd look for a synthetic from Red Line, Lucas, Amsoil, Royal Purple that has a more traditional higher Zinc Phosphate content, this is an anti-friction additive so fantastically helpful the government had to ban it. I forget the PPB but above a certain ZDDP or ZNNP level and the oil is no longer able to be API certified. So look for a non API certified oil. The reason for the reduction of Zinc Phosphate content is that it is very hard on catylitic converters, and since this country is currently more concerned with the easy way to help the environment then the more socially responsible increase in service life that it had to go.

Pennzoil is another product I need to crack on but I currently dont have the energy.