look what UPS delivered to me today **UPDATE** 12/13

[spdracr]

Called megan yesterday and the guy said i can't order a single damper so i had him double check and still on, he said i can either order 2 front ones or place an order for one and that will get sent to the manufacturer and will take about 2 to 3 months, i called back an hour later and asked to speak with a supervisor and he assured me that i can order only one and the other representative was wrong, so i just placed my order an hour ago and it will be shipped tomorrow and it will 3 to 5 days coming from CA so hopefully i will get it by the end of next week and my car will be lowered that sunday if everything goes as planned.

good luck man. show so pictures once its dropped...

will do man

[salvichronic]

the tires were 225/35/18, keep the rears how they are youll prolly like the drop. if not go lower lol. enjoy man

[spdracr]

the tires were 225/35/18, keep the rears how they are youll prolly like the drop. if not go lower lol. enjoy man

i got the 3g eclipse rims and they are slightly thicker, i will keep them as they r and i will see

[Danger DANJ]

In case you want to set them up the way Megan suggests, below are some instructions taken from Club3G which were sent in an email from Megan.

Properly setting Pre-Load to get the most out of your Megan Suspension.

Make sure your springs are at Neutral Pre-Load. This means when no weight is
on the springs (either on the car in the air or before installation) the

springs should be 180mm from top to bottom.

1) Install the dampers on your car and then place the vehicle on the ground.
2) Once the weight is on the suspension measure the distance between the top
and bottom of the spring.
3) Whatever the measurement is, that is the proper amount of Pre-Load that
should be applied to the spring.

So if the spring is compressed by 30mm, then the proper Pre-Load on the
spring is 150mm. This allows you to get the most suspension travel; instead
of your

car wasting 30mm of suspension travel just sitting there with weight.

After pre-Load is set, you can leave the Spring perches alone. All the ride-
height adjustments must be made from the Lower brackets.

The easiest way to do this is..

To lower.. (Example, 15mm)

1) Unlock the bottom lock ring.
2) Turn the lock ring counter-clockwise until there is 15mm of space between
the lock ring and the top of the bracket.
3) WITHOUT TOUCHING THE LOCK RING, rotate the suspension clockwise, screwing
the suspension down into the lower bracket until the Lower lock ring comes
into

contact with the bracket.
4) Secure the Lock ring at the bottom so that the suspension is set.

Sometimes it's too stiff to rotate the suspension by hand, that's when you'll
want to use the Spanner-Wrenches against the Spring-Perches to rotate the
whole

suspension. As long as the Spring Perches are secure they should not rotate
and you will have a firm grip on the suspension system.

To Raise.. (Example, 15mm)

1) Unlock the bottom lock ring.
2) Rotate the suspension Counter-Clockwise till there is 15mm of space
between the lock ring and bracket.
3) Once the desired height is attained, spin the lock ring clockwise till it
reaches the bracket.
4) Secure the lock ring at the bottom so that the suspension is set.

WD-40 works wonders while making adjustments.

[spdracr]

In case you want to set them up the way Megan suggests, below are some instructions taken from Club3G which were sent in an email from Megan.

Properly setting Pre-Load to get the most out of your Megan Suspension.

Make sure your springs are at Neutral Pre-Load. This means when no weight is
on the springs (either on the car in the air or before installation) the

springs should be 180mm from top to bottom.

1) Install the dampers on your car and then place the vehicle on the ground.
2) Once the weight is on the suspension measure the distance between the top
and bottom of the spring.
3) Whatever the measurement is, that is the proper amount of Pre-Load that
should be applied to the spring.

So if the spring is compressed by 30mm, then the proper Pre-Load on the
spring is 150mm. This allows you to get the most suspension travel; instead
of your

car wasting 30mm of suspension travel just sitting there with weight.

After pre-Load is set, you can leave the Spring perches alone. All the ride-
height adjustments must be made from the Lower brackets.

The easiest way to do this is..

To lower.. (Example, 15mm)

1) Unlock the bottom lock ring.
2) Turn the lock ring counter-clockwise until there is 15mm of space between
the lock ring and the top of the bracket.
3) WITHOUT TOUCHING THE LOCK RING, rotate the suspension clockwise, screwing
the suspension down into the lower bracket until the Lower lock ring comes
into

contact with the bracket.
4) Secure the Lock ring at the bottom so that the suspension is set.

Sometimes it's too stiff to rotate the suspension by hand, that's when you'll
want to use the Spanner-Wrenches against the Spring-Perches to rotate the
whole

suspension. As long as the Spring Perches are secure they should not rotate
and you will have a firm grip on the suspension system.

To Raise.. (Example, 15mm)

1) Unlock the bottom lock ring.
2) Rotate the suspension Counter-Clockwise till there is 15mm of space
between the lock ring and bracket.
3) Once the desired height is attained, spin the lock ring clockwise till it
reaches the bracket.
4) Secure the lock ring at the bottom so that the suspension is set.

WD-40 works wonders while making adjustments.

thanks i needed that now one but what is the point of of the pre-load ?? if u compress the spring that would make the ride stiffer but i dont need that so i shouldnt set the pre-load at all and i should just let it be the way it is this way i can enjoy my ride

[Reelax]

preload and ride stiffness are 2 different things although preload can affect ride stiffness. your new dampers have adjustable compression rebound meaning the speed at which they resist compression and rebound is adjustable so the slower the damper is allowed to move, the stiffer the ride... but if the damping is too soft, the ride will be bouncy since the damper will not be able to control the spring... the spring is what is actually "suspending" the car and the damper is there to control the spring. now if you preload or pre compress the spring you are essentially making it have a higher rate and this will make you have to adjust youe dampers stiffer to compensate. the reason you see a lot of lowered cars bouncing is that cut springs and lowering springs have a higher rate then stock and the stock shocks "blow" trying to control the stronger spring rate.

[spdracr]

preload and ride stiffness are 2 different things although preload can affect ride stiffness. your new dampers have adjustable compression rebound meaning the speed at which they resist compression and rebound is adjustable so the slower the damper is allowed to move, the stiffer the ride... but if the damping is too soft, the ride will be bouncy since the damper will not be able to control the spring... the spring is what is actually "suspending" the car and the damper is there to control the spring. now if you preload or pre compress the spring you are essentially making it have a higher rate and this will make you have to adjust youe dampers stiffer to compensate. the reason you see a lot of lowered cars bouncing is that cut springs and lowering springs have a higher rate then stock and the stock shocks "blow" trying to control the stronger spring rate.

ok i read this few times and so far here is what i got and please correct me if im wrong: if i compress the spring then i need to soften the damper and if i leave the springs ar normal lengths then i need to stiffen the damper a lil bit so it wont be bouncy, right ???

so my question remains should i set the pre-load or not ?? for some reason im not able to comprehend what is the pre-load for exactly

thanks

[Reelax]

preload and ride stiffness are 2 different things although preload can affect ride stiffness. your new dampers have adjustable compression rebound meaning the speed at which they resist compression and rebound is adjustable so the slower the damper is allowed to move, the stiffer the ride... but if the damping is too soft, the ride will be bouncy since the damper will not be able to control the spring... the spring is what is actually "suspending" the car and the damper is there to control the spring. now if you preload or pre compress the spring you are essentially making it have a higher rate and this will make you have to adjust youe dampers stiffer to compensate. the reason you see a lot of lowered cars bouncing is that cut springs and lowering springs have a higher rate then stock and the stock shocks "blow" trying to control the stronger spring rate.

ok i read this few times and so far here is what i got and please correct me if im wrong: if i compress the spring then i need to soften the damper and if i leave the springs ar normal lengths then i need to stiffen the damper a lil bit so it wont be bouncy, right ???

so my question remains should i set the pre-load or not ?? for some reason im not able to comprehend what is the pre-load for exactly

thanks

u have it backwards. preload is like artifically making the springs deal w/ a a "heavier" load. the springs push back harder the more they are compressed. preloading them compresses them more than they would be just from the weight of the car (neutral preload). the harder the spring presses, the stiffer the damper has to be to be able to control the springs' motion (left alone the spring would just bounce and bounce). so to adjust ride height w/o affecting preload, you adjust at the lower threading and lock ring (the perch that doesnt touch the sping at the bottom bracket). so neutral-low preload = softer ride available (although you can still crank the dampers to be stiff for performance); hi preload = stiff ride since the dampers need to be stiff to control the higher spring rate. if you have heavy preload and soft dampers, your car will bounce.

[spdracr]

preload and ride stiffness are 2 different things although preload can affect ride stiffness. your new dampers have adjustable compression rebound meaning the speed at which they resist compression and rebound is adjustable so the slower the damper is allowed to move, the stiffer the ride... but if the damping is too soft, the ride will be bouncy since the damper will not be able to control the spring... the spring is what is actually "suspending" the car and the damper is there to control the spring. now if you preload or pre compress the spring you are essentially making it have a higher rate and this will make you have to adjust youe dampers stiffer to compensate. the reason you see a lot of lowered cars bouncing is that cut springs and lowering springs have a higher rate then stock and the stock shocks "blow" trying to control the stronger spring rate.

ok i read this few times and so far here is what i got and please correct me if im wrong: if i compress the spring then i need to soften the damper and if i leave the springs ar normal lengths then i need to stiffen the damper a lil bit so it wont be bouncy, right ???

so my question remains should i set the pre-load or not ?? for some reason im not able to comprehend what is the pre-load for exactly

thanks

u have it backwards. preload is like artifically making the springs deal w/ a a "heavier" load. the springs push back harder the more they are compressed. preloading them compresses them more than they would be just from the weight of the car (neutral preload). the harder the spring presses, the stiffer the damper has to be to be able to control the springs' motion (left alone the spring would just bounce and bounce). so to adjust ride height w/o affecting preload, you adjust at the lower threading and lock ring (the perch that doesnt touch the sping at the bottom bracket). so neutral-low preload = softer ride available (although you can still crank the dampers to be stiff for performance); hi preload = stiff ride since the dampers need to be stiff to control the higher spring rate. if you have heavy preload and soft dampers, your car will bounce.

so i set the pre-load to the suggested manufacturer instructions then set the height of the ride then keep the damper semi-hard so i wont be bouncing all over the place, right ??

[spdracr]

first off the missing piece to my puzzle :D




then my new project coming for the late winter early spring

[WarmAndSCSI]

Nice, I'm hopefully getting my set of Megan coilovers next week :D

If they're good enough for me, I bet you'll be really happy with yours.

[spdracr]

Nice, I'm hopefully getting my set of Megan coilovers next week :D

If they're good enough for me, I bet you'll be really happy with yours.

after going with the koni/eibach combo for my last car i decided to go with something better and this is what i was set on

[GOOSEY2099]

Nice, I'm hopefully getting my set of Megan coilovers next week :D

If they're good enough for me, I bet you'll be really happy with yours.

Bro you should go with tein w/edfc. Being able to change the dampness on the fly is priceless.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Nice, I'm hopefully getting my set of Megan coilovers next week :D

If they're good enough for me, I bet you'll be really happy with yours.

Bro you should go with tein w/edfc. Being able to change the dampness on the fly is priceless.

I've heard the Tein SS's are garbage compared to the Megan coilovers, only having height adjustment through the spring preload (correct me if I'm wrong). And I'm going to leave mine set at stiff all the time because it really doesn't bother me.

Plus I've already bought my coilovers

[GOOSEY2099]

tein ss/p with pillowball mounts and edfc can change the preload/height/dampness(electronicly) <- and this is something you can really feel. I have no idea who told you that they are garbage, but they are an idiot.

[WarmAndSCSI]

The EDFC only changes the dampening rate, not preload or ride height. The Tein SS really aren't that great, I agree with what I've been told. Tein has much better offerings for other platforms.

[GOOSEY2099]

right about the edfc. But that makes a whole world of difference then stopping to open your hood and take out your back seat. The ride is actually not that bad and i'm mostly in brooklyn(2nd worse roads on earth, 1st being russia)

[WarmAndSCSI]

In Soviet Russia, road drives on you.