Rough cold start...

[6G72Galant]

Every morning when i start my car, i hear this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9LJP1mw0es

...it only does it for a couple of minutes until the car warms up. Then the noise slowly resides. The car only ever does this when the weather gets cold. But i thought i could solve the problem by using a lighter weight oil. Im using 5w-30. Should i use some kinda additive? Am i causing any damage? Im worried because that Suby kid thread had that video in it. And im hoping nothing is wrong with my engine. :?

[polishmafia]

i cant watch youtube videos, but ill just say this...

on really cold mornings here in minnesota, like today - negative 5 degree cold start;

- my power steering pump squeals like banshee
- my belts scream
- my engine ticks like a clock
- my chassis cracks
- my intake sounds like its having difficulty breathing

but all of these things go away once the car is warmed up.

[Sleepervr-4]

That is rod knock on the vid. Is yours that loud? You might be getting lifter tick which is a common thing on mitsu's. If it goes away when warm most likely it is lifter tick. If it doesn't than it might be rod knock. Try flushing out your engine and using some 5-30 mobile 1. You should always use thinner oil in the winter to aid in cold weather startup. btw how many miles on this engine?

[6G72Galant]

That is rod knock on the vid. Is yours that loud? You might be getting lifter tick which is a common thing on mitsu's. If it goes away when warm most likely it is lifter tick. If it doesn't than it might be rod knock. Try flushing out your engine and using some 5-30 mobile 1. You should always use thinner oil in the winter to aid in cold weather startup. btw how many miles on this engine?

Yeh its about that loud, but it goes away when the car warms up. Ive already put in some 5W-30. I was just worried about having Rod knock. Just trying to make sure i didnt. I got 115k on the engine now. :P

[WarmAndSCSI]

You probably just have bad lifter tick. Persistent rod knock means that one or more rods isn't getting the oil pressure it needs around the rod journal on the crank due to an extremely worn bearing and/or journal. IE: major mechanical problem.

[wright06jhs]

this is such weird and funny shit. MY 6g72 is doing the same exact thing right now. It has a kinda loud tick to it when you first start it up when its cold out. But goes aways after its been warm, but when its warmer outside it never does it, and my car only has 67K miles on it.

SO IF it is a bad lifter tick? What could be done to fix it? and how hard is it?
Im glad this thread was started....i need more info too

[6G72Galant]

I couldve sworn i saw a thread somewhere here on how to fix lifter tick. Ill check...


...here it is

https://thegalantcenter.net/forum/vi...ht=lifter+tick

[4-G-rim]

Your noise is going away when the car warms up..if it was rod knock it would be constant and wouldn't go away. Its most likely lifter tick and lifter tick will occur if the oil hasn't been changed for awhile and/or extremely dirty or you are using too thick of motor oil. Basicly not enough oil flow is going through the channels of the lash adjusters (lifters) and causing them to get stuck, thus the tick. When the oil warms up its viscosity gets thinner which explains why the tick noise would go away when the oil gets warm enough.

One of the ways that I have tried personally is use Marvel Mystery Oil. When I first got my 96 Galant it had really bad lifter tick. I did a fresh oil change and switched to 5-30w synthetic Mobil 1 and added a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil. The lifter tick greatly decreased but didn't totally go away. On my next oil change I added another bottle of Marvel mystery oil and ever since I have never had lifter tick on my 7g again to this day. Another method is to do a fresh oil change and add half of quart of ATF fluid to the motor oil and run the car for about 500 miles or a week, which ever is first. Do another oil change with fresh new oil and new oil filter and lifter tick should go away. ATF has detergents and other agents that help clean things up and will aid in cleaning blockages.

[wright06jhs]

awesome, ill try this! ^^^^

[6G72gearhead]

I've just started getting the same thing, I'm almost 45% posative that its lifters and 55% that its a valve actually sticking. If its a lifter then its the middle front bank cylinder I think #3, and it bangs away till it gets warm.

I really just want an excuse to pull the heads down and rebuild them.

[silversurfer]

Well I have your solution you either need a roller rocker which sits under your cam shaft which rides on the hydraulic lifter or a new hydraulic lifter I have had three subaru 4 cyl horizontally opposed turbo engines the really square ones a 4wd and a couple of 2wds I actually have four lifters sitting in my tool box but they are for an 96 subaru I love those engines anyways , Most likely you need to replace the hydraulic lifter and to do that you need to remove the timing belts the valve cover on the drivers side it sound like or looked like you were going to that side, I ts a pretty big job for someone who has never opened a subaru up before though, dont try using a heavy oil that turbo will burn that oil up in the bearing and solidify and fry the turbo . try to find someone to do the job for u cheap if you cant do it or get a manual, the belts are easy to replace and the lifter should cost around 45 dollars. If you have any more questions dont hesitate to pm me. 8) Jo