1996 Mitsubishi Galant ES, Auto
Scenario of death:
1)Car has had starting problems for about 6 months, when key was turned sometimes it just clicked and no crank and after several tries it would crank slowly kind of like *coughing* and start.
2)Gave car a tune-up, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires
3)Replaced fuel filter 6 weeks ago hoping it was clogged and causing the issue, while removing the fuel filter I believe i twisted the fuel line so that it was kinked (car started and ran fine for 3 weeks). After replacement, starting problem was slightly better, took less cranks to start and sometimes it started on first try.
4)Two weeks ago car was near empty and while pulling into gas station car was sputtering and died. Filled gas in car, car started briefly sputtered again and died. Hasn't been able to start since. I tried leaving the key in "on" position to build up fuel pressure and removed gas cap no pressure noise while removal, it seems liked the car wasn't getting fuel
Tried Solutions:
1)Took car to mechanic. First mechanic claimed car's fuel pressure was low and the fuel pump was dead. After further diagnosis he said the fuel pump was fine and it was the kink in the fuel line was causing low pressure.
2)He charged me $300 and replaced the metal fuel line that connects to the bottom of the fuel filter. He then said fuel pressure was fine now and the car still had the same problem
3)Next he said the car was not getting spark, so he replaced the distributor, cost me $200, and since the car did not start even after replacing the distributor he did not charge me for labor
4)I now have the car back and am trying to diagnose the issue myself.
Here is my diagnosis:
1) Checked for spark. Tried two different plugs. Pulled out plug and wire. Placed plug in wire and put threads of plug on ground in engine bay while cranking. No spark for either.
2) Fuel pump connector is getting voltage during cranking. I do not hear fuel pump turn on while cranking. Pulled off test connector on firewall and gave it 12v and the fuel pump turns on.
3) Checked relays under dash on radio side. There are two black relays and both click when the car actually cranks. (sometimes the car doesn't crank there are just clicks in the engine bay)
4) Checked all engine grounds, seem okay. Battery voltage was low so car was hooked up to jumper cables during all tests.
5) Starter is getting voltage and was tested by mechanic seems to be fine
6) CPS sensor is getting voltage during cranking starts with 12v and drops to about 6v
Questions:
1) Are there any other tests I can run to determine whether CPS is bad or not? (I believe this is the problem)
2) Could ECU have gone bad? I hear they do not go bad on these cars very often
3) How hard is the replacement of a CPS sensor?
4) How can I test the fuel injectors? a diode?
If anyone has any further input, I would love to hear it. This is my daily driver so, I am having so much trouble getting around to school and work.
the only real way that i know of to check a crank sensor is with an oscilliscope (sp?). I had this same problem when my crank sensor went out. I did all the shit that u did. I checked fuses, relays, other sensors the fuel pump connector under the hood turned the fuel pump on but during cranking. Its not extremely hard to replace you just have to pull the timing cover off and im almost sure that the timing belt has to come off. Good luck.
Johnas
Before you go through all that, what's the condition and age of the battery? Sounds very much like a bad battery.
Chip
2000 Basalt Black Metallic GTZ
(Paint Code: Porsche LC9Z)
Genuine experience carries a lot more credibility than the ability to answer a question.
We are suffereing some of the same issues.
I get the clicks, but no crank as well. i think it's a starter / voltage issue. like it wants to start, but takes a few times before the current jumps the gap.
as for the distributor you might check the wires to make sure that it is properly grounded. did he replace the whole distributor assembly or just the distributor.
the distributor and the CPS are all have the same ground
Thanks for the quick responses
I'll try to address all the questions...
1) The battery is an optima red top it is in decent condition, but I mentioned in the post earlier that I had the car hooked up to jumper cables during all my tests so voltage was 13+v
2) He replaced the whole distributor assembly I believe, it looks new, probably rebuilt
3) I will definitely re-check the distributor ground and cps ground now that you have mentioned
Blue Ice:
Your link is interesting, did this solve your issue? Were you getting spark? Also, the picture no longer loads, the two switches you are talking about.. are they near the ECU or are you talking about the two MPI relays that kick the fuel pump on.
Last edited by rizvfe01; 05-21-2008 at 05:05 PM
It solved my fuel pump issue, but car still won't start, they are the mpi switches.
Blue Ice:
I did your MPI relay bypass and it def turns on the fuel pump now but car still doesn't start. I am not getting spark. I tried looking for the distributor grounds, is that small gauge wire on top of the distributor that gets grounded by the valve cover the ground? Also, the CPS wiring harness is near the top timing belt cover correct? it seems like that is getting a ground from being screwed into motor block.
Standing in front of the motor from left to right the cylinders are 4,3,2,1 right? and the dist is labeled 1,3,4,2 so that is pretty self explanatory.
If it was a bad CPS sensor than the car would get no spark or fuel correct?
Well i'm not getting a spark either, just found that out. i'm doing a completely different setup, so i'm not sure what the wires look like. i was just reading from a wiring diagram.Originally Posted by rizvfe01
i plan on diagnosing why i'm not getting a spark to the plugs, could be a number of things for me.
Yes it goes 4,3,2,1. And yes if it was the CPS which im almost certain that it is then you would have no fuel or spark.
^^ is correct. Just change out the sensor and see if it fixes the problem.
222whp/250wtq
I really think it is the sensor, too. The sensor is cheap which is great but, the labor looks like I may have to take it to a different mechanic and get the timing belt done as well. Is there a write-up on this anywhere?
Just another thought though, is it possible the mechanic installed the distributor wrong as in 180 degrees off or improperly installed the rotor causing me not to get spark? I just don't want to keep blindly replacing parts so, I am trying to narrow down the problem as much as possible.
Pics posted in your thread on GF.
222whp/250wtq
No and no. Even if the rotor or distributor was off 180 deg it wouldnt cause your car not to give fuel. Timing belt is easy dude. Just get a timing belt, oil pump seal, oil pump o-ring, balance shaft seal, crank seal, all pulleys, water pump and a new tensioner as well as the sensor. Manually turn the motor over clockwise to where all timing marks line up and put a new one on (after you take the other one off). Then manually turn the motor over again i think it takes 3 complete turns to get everything to line up correctly and see if youve done it correctly. Good luck man. IF you do get this done or do this make sure u replace everything at once. It may cost u a good bit now.. But im learning from not doing it all at once myself.
you could also be having an issue with the ECU getting power or ground.
Posting Rules
Log in
Register
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks