is it the same for an I4?
Note: this tutorial is geared for the V6, but should be similar for the I4.
Changing your oil is one of the more vital maintenance tasks for your car, and can be easily done by yourself. Oil changes should be done every 3000 miles.
NOTE: used motor oil is real nasty, hazardous stuff - make sure to wear gloves and old clothing as you will get oil on yourself.
Tools you will need:
Going clockwise from the picture:
Ramp or jack/jackstands
Oil Collection Pan
Filter Wrench
Torque Wrench
5/8" Socket
Gloves
Oil Filter
Oil Plug Gasket (Size M14)
4.5 Quarts of Oil
Shop towels and/or Rags
Not Pictured:
Wheel Blocks
First thing to do is to warm up the car - the oil comes out quicker when it is warm.
Then put the car up on ramps or jack up the car. I like to use the ramps as it is quicker, but you don't get as much clearance with jackstands.
Don't forget to set your parking brake and block off the rear wheels for safety as well.
Next, pop the hood, and open up the oil filler cap.
From underneath the car, place the oil collection pan under the car's oil plug. It's also a good idea to put some absorbant material under the collection pan as the oil can get everywhere.
Remove the oil plug - remember, right tight, left loose. CAUTION, THE OIL WILL BE HOT! MAKE SURE TO BE WEARING GLOVES (I also use the rubber gloves that you use to wash dishes and that protects pretty well). If you have an open oil collection pan, be sure not to drop the oil plug into the pan (doh!). The oil should drain in about 3-5 minutes.
While the oil is draining, clean off the oil plug and discard the old gasket. put the new gasket on the plug and set aside.
Inspect your new filter, and make sure the rubber seal is clean. Fill the new filter with oil. After the filter has been filled, take your (clean) finger and rub some of the oil along the rubber gasket. Set aside.
Once the oil has finished draining, wipe the area around the plug opening clean and make sure it is free of debris. Carefully replace the oil plug with new gasket and tighten to 29 ft-lbs.
Move the oil collection pan to under the old oil filter. Use your filter wrench to LOOSEN the filter, then proceed to unscrew the old filter by hand - note that there is oil in the filter as well, so use caution as you remove the old filter. Drain the oil from the old oil filter and set aside.
Clean the area where the oil filter was and make sure it is free of debris. Gently install the new oil filter, and tighten by hand only.
Almost done! Clean the area around the oil fill hole and feed yer baby some oil. Fill with 4.5 quarts of oil.
Take off the blocks and take your car down off the ramps or jackstands, and check the oil level with the dipstick - oil should be at the top notch.
Start the car and let it run for a bit. Look under the car and inspect for leaks. I also put some paper under the oil plug and filter when the car is sitting overnight to see if there are any leaks.
All done! Clean up, and dispose of the oil and old filter properly - most auto shops will take the oil off your hands.
Disclaimer: This guide is to be "used at your own risk". I take no responsibilities for errors, incorrect information, and make no representations or guarantees expressed or implied for any damages, mishaps, and/or pain and suffering that this may or will cause you.
Last edited by DryBear; 04-03-2009 at 02:33 PM
is it the same for an I4?
I have that same collection pan.and bad luck cause the 2 times I tried to change it myself I ended up stripping the drain plug and had to buy new ones
yes...although maybe the total amount of new oil you add might not be the sameOriginally Posted by neel9
Lol, yeah, that particular style of pan sucks as it is really too small - good for draining the filter though.Originally Posted by mrjaydeeone
As for the I4, according to my Haynes manual, the I4 uses 4.5 quarts of oil as well - I'll dig up my Galant FSM CD and double check.
Thanks for this. Much easier than I thought, and quicker than a trip to the garage.
Last edited by Gtsnapper; 05-16-2008 at 10:27 PM
another tip i have, is to cover the oil filter with a plastic grocery bag as you unscrew it. any oil that drips out will drip into the bag and not down your arm or all over the place as you remove the filter. once the filter is removed you can just pour the oil into the pan.
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I left mine to drain out for half an hour. Even after 15 mins the oil was still dripping out, and I wanted to get as much of it out as possible.
You can tip in some cheap clean oil from the top and see what gunk/crap comes out the oil filter drain and sump drain before replacing the filter and plug and then filling 'er up.
It takes 4.5 litres to fill a 6A13TT engine from my experience.
http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1144
Above is our guide to not only change the oil but doing a flush as well to get the extra crap out.
Mind you, the flush is not ideal for old/high mileage engines where the build-up actually keeps the engine sealed :)
thank you for this info, I was unsure of one step but everything makes sense!!
what u guys think about the oil,which one is the best for my 8g
i'm doing this next week has anyone seen that lucas oil stabilizer?(the have it on the counter at the autozone......) i think you mix it 80% oil to 20% stabilizer... has anyone used the lucas? i was just thinking a good synth oil would work...
I just stick 5w30 synthetic oil in mine. Never found a need for stabalizers
Good Tutorial but I will have to disagree with having to do the oil at 3000 miles. I've been driving for 17 years and I have done my oil changes at min 5K if needed. I usually do them at 7K. I never had any issues. I worked at a dealer for awhile and a good mechanic will tell you that also. Just like Tranny flushes are a waste of money and so is premature oil change.
Last edited by RAZ_76; 08-03-2008 at 03:07 PM
i will agree with you there.
one thing you do have to keep in mind, and something many MANY people overlook, is the filter. i've seen people use nice synthetic oil and use a crap brand filter like fram. good oil will go longer than 3k but who knows how long a crap brand filter can last. so if you are gonna go on longer intervals between oil changes, at least get a good oil filter.
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Fram oil filters are complete garbage in my opinion. I looked online at oil filters cut open and how they were constructed and fram are the absolute worst. The endcaps are made of cardboard like the cheaper brand filters are. I found that the Purolator pure one filters are the best for me(for the amount I'm willing to pay for an oil filter). Check out this link http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml or do some research of your own,,,I'll never use a fram again.
Last edited by boochieboy; 08-03-2008 at 05:28 PM
I use Mobil One extended performance and I change them every other oil change, so about 14K.
So from this image i should jack the pass. side to get to the plug and filter.. changing my tires today so i said screw it why not, i'm over my mileage
Yeah, it'd be easier if you lifted it on the passenger side. Your best bet would be to keep it level so you can drain as much oil as possible.
If you post stupid and incorrect information, you will get red nuggets.
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