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Thread: Turbo Problem

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  1. #21
    yes i can vouch on 100% throttle and in drive the car accelerates and boost reaches 9 or so and with wastegate line attached it only reaches 5 on wot... -- paul its possible if u have no downpipe u will have very slow spool due to no backpressure but i dont think thats the case because there is a connection === first i think u should remove the turbo and inspect the wastegate before you do ne thing --- hook the actuator up to a hand pump with a gauge and visually watch the gate open around 10 or so pounds. you need to do it with a hand pump so u can see it open and close as u pump. Once u establish that then move to leaks --- if u need a pump i can find one for u
    4g64DeT 1st evo ecu powered automatic (5 speed now baby)
    BIG 16G Boosted|custom dp|megan racing catback|Deleted Cat|stock dsm manifold|450cc Blues|190lph walbro|evo fuel rail + fpr|greddy type rs bov|evo uicp|Gen FMIC|Custom LICP|Evo cf hood|cf trunk|cyber body kit|motegi dp6 gunmetal 18"|AGXs|Tein S techs|14 psi |5 yrs boosted

  2. #22
    I can almost guarantee you it's the flapper not being seated correctly. Try driving it around with the actuator arm disconnected not the vacuum source and see if you notice any difference. You say that it only hits 5 lbs with the vacuum line connected but 10 with it off, to me that sounds like the flapper is only half seated (actually pretty common on mitsu turbos). What actuator are you currently using?


    222whp/250wtq

  3. #23
    problem solved....somehow the BOV vacuum line was not working properly...re-did the line and im watching 10psi straight with the actuator connected...its pulling harder than ever...so i know its working...im hitting 10psi at 3000 rpms...its all pull after that.....and 10psi is all i should see since the actuator comes with i belive a ~12psi spring. 2psi loss in the intercooler is not much...so im happy for now...it finally feels like a turbo car...i can actually hear the turbo whoosh really strong...sounds like a mini diesel truck...
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  4. #24
    i switched vacuum lines between the boost and the BOV and i noticed that when i connected the boost line i was getting only 20 vacuum at all times while i took out the car on WOT runs...connected the boost gauge and the BOV line together...and bingo...car feels great and everything seems to run right...like i said 10psi at ~3K RPMs and all pull after that...feels alot stronger than any other run ive done.... before i used to build ~2-3 psi at 4K RPMs and 5psi at the end...
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  5. #25
    I want a boosted car! hahah thats sweet you got it working, have fun. :)

    5-speed 6G72 w/ bolt-ons [sold]
    '93 Nissan 240sx vert

  6. #26
    Experienced TGC Member Galante's Avatar
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    I envy your turbo setup dude! Good you've figured the problem now! I'm still learning about turbo's.
    "Mitsubishi Galant(e) for Life"

    Tuned 2013 Evolution X GSR PB

    -> Follow me on IG @blackblurr_x | 5-Speed | Check out my Build Here

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by whokilledhoughes View Post
    i switched vacuum lines between the boost and the BOV and i noticed that when i connected the boost line i was getting only 20 vacuum at all times while i took out the car on WOT runs...connected the boost gauge and the BOV line together...and bingo...car feels great and everything seems to run right...like i said 10psi at ~3K RPMs and all pull after that...feels alot stronger than any other run ive done.... before i used to build ~2-3 psi at 4K RPMs and 5psi at the end...
    any dyno pulls or 1/4 mile times?
    OZ Rally Crew #001, Quaife Club member :D

  8. #28
    glad you figured it out! haha. no one said vac line

  9. #29
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Stewi's Avatar
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    08-04-2003
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    LOL

    Its amazing how the smallest things elude people. I drove around for about an hour and couldnt figure out WTF was wrong with my car and then I realized I never hooked the vac line back up to the BOV.
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz
    well there are talkers and there are do'ers. talkers never do. and do'ers never talk
    99' Galant ES
    4G64/63T
    AEM EMS

  10. #30
    laxin im a little tired but if disconnect the actuator arm how r u gonna build boost??? the flapper is going to swing open and hardly ne boost will build... Am i missing something??
    4g64DeT 1st evo ecu powered automatic (5 speed now baby)
    BIG 16G Boosted|custom dp|megan racing catback|Deleted Cat|stock dsm manifold|450cc Blues|190lph walbro|evo fuel rail + fpr|greddy type rs bov|evo uicp|Gen FMIC|Custom LICP|Evo cf hood|cf trunk|cyber body kit|motegi dp6 gunmetal 18"|AGXs|Tein S techs|14 psi |5 yrs boosted

  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by greddy View Post
    any dyno pulls or 1/4 mile times?
    not yet...soon tho...wanna get a proper DP first
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  12. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by qnz View Post
    glad you figured it out! haha. no one said vac line
    i know...i always knew the problem was laying on the BOV...but i never thought of looking at the vacuum line..
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  13. #33
    good to hear that man, to tell you the truth i don't think you should be loosing those 2lb. Something is still not right.... where do you have the boost guage hooked up? also did you just the J pipe to the vac? what kind of bov do you have?
    2.4L - AWD - 5SPEED - PTE 6057 at __PSI w/Wavetrac LSD

  14. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099 View Post
    good to hear that man, to tell you the truth i don't think you should be loosing those 2lb. Something is still not right.... where do you have the boost guage hooked up? also did you just the J pipe to the vac? what kind of bov do you have?

    i have the boost gauge hooked up where the stock regulator was getting its vacuum source....i dont understand what your trying to ask about the J-pipe your missing something and im using a Turbonetics Raptor BOV.
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  15. #35
    Sorry I was drunk when i wrote that lol. I'm asking if you just jumped the WG to the J pipe or did you tee it of the BOV?
    2.4L - AWD - 5SPEED - PTE 6057 at __PSI w/Wavetrac LSD

  16. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099 View Post
    Sorry I was drunk when i wrote that lol. I'm asking if you just jumped the WG to the J pipe or did you tee it of the BOV?
    no the WG is connected with the J-pipe by a vac hose...i made a T for the boost gauge and BOV.
    Fully Built 4G63
    HKS 272
    ported Dual Ball Bearing FP RED 84mm 25psi w/ external dump

  17. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnathansgalant View Post
    laxin im a little tired but if disconnect the actuator arm how r u gonna build boost??? the flapper is going to swing open and hardly ne boost will build... Am i missing something??
    No you're correct, i misunderstood what he was saying in his earlier posts.


    222whp/250wtq

  18. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099 View Post
    Sorry I was drunk when i wrote that lol. I'm asking if you just jumped the WG to the J pipe or did you tee it of the BOV?
    haha. thats no excuse. youre drunk while youre typing this also

  19. #39
    Good to hear you got it fixed.....

  20. #40
    Member JDM4G64T's Avatar
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    07-09-2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099 View Post
    Sorry I was drunk when i wrote that lol. I'm asking if you just jumped the WG to the J pipe or did you tee it of the BOV?
    ^^ haha.....drunk!


    Car is sold, no more G.... Moved on to something a big more sporty.... lol

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