Burning Oil Quick

[Jaygza01]

So my 95 galant 5spd burns oil quick, i havent driven it in a while and just noticed this problem again, i have to add a couple quarts every week or so, maybe a little longer. But I just changed my oil with 10w30 synthetic blend and before i knew it id burned out all my oil, I shift high at like 5,200 rpm, i dont know if because im driving the hell out of my car that its burning oil quick or what it could be...? I am changing both 02 sensors, the cap, rotor, fuel filter, anything to increase performance, maybe a sensor is gone?:smt019

[seth98esT]

You sure it is burning and not leaking? Do you see blue smoke come out of the exhaust or smell burnt oil? Could be piston rings, could be valve seals, could be many other things.

[IVORY_G]

You can try moving up to a thicker grade of oil like 10W-40, but sounds like a leak and or bad internals. How many miles? And did u just switch to Synthetic, or u were always using it?

[Jaygza01]

alright i could try moving to a thicker oil, ive been using 10w30 and just started the synthetic blend, the thing is my car has always burned oil like this, yet about a 1,000 mi ago i had a tensior go and the guy who did work on my engine didnt replace it so when it went it blew my engine and i had to have my engine rebuilt with new valves and everything. So far its been 1,000 mi since then. It does sometimes smell like burnt oil and the exhaust is pretty stinky. Before the engine blew i had blue smoke but not anymore. Could the way I drive have any effect on this (shifting high)? i just changed my pcv valve for the hell of it, not sure what else to fix, dont really have the cash for some mechanic to take advantage of me at this point :smt062

[RAZ_76]

It's time for a rebuild.

[Jaygza01]

by the way no leakage, i always check and nothing underneath.....as for miles i am at 170,000 but like i said engine was rebuilt....valve cover is always hot as hell after driving, but that should be normal right?

[mitgalantes]

when is the last time u checked your coolant level..if your really low on the stuff or out then that could lead to the oil burnin faster should be no higher then the max line

[IVORY_G]

Well when you say a rebuild do u mean the entire engine/block or do u mean a Head job, i.e. Valves, rockers, head gasket, etc. You could have some bad pistons in there still.

Aggresive driving is in no way good for the car, this is still a family sedan built motor. Not a race built motor. You cant drive everywhere like a speed demon and expect the car/engine to last. An occasional acceleration is fine, but all in all, if you want to make this a race car, you have to start from scratch and build the motor for that. {i.e. pistons, cams, heads, etc.} Redlining the car all the time everywhere you drive is an easy way to blow a motor, especially at 170,000 miles, not to mention in a low mileage car.

You should try switching to 10W-40 and adding an Oil Additive/Stabilizer such as Lucas, Rislone, Slick 50, etc. that will aid in the longevity and preservation of your motor, and hopefully stop your oil burning. And stop redlining it if you are, you'll save more gas that way. Go over the basics to like a compression check, and or basic tune-up if needed. Good Luck.

[eros8201]

Like was said above, compression test an then if you want to re really sure leak down. I picked up a compression tester from autozone for like $25 and I am sure you could find them cheaper I was just in a pinch and needed it ASAP. Seems like if it was rings or valves you would have a noticeable amount of blue smoke coming from your exhaust. I know in my RSX if you drove it hard for extended periods of time it wouldnt be odd to run to 2 or even 3 quarts in between oil changes. I would say compression check and report back on the numbers.

P.S. If I you dont have them money for a mechanic I wouldnt keep spending money on parts that are not broken.

[evil-G-nius]

You could also use that engine restore stuff. My car burns oil and I dont drive like a maniac like you do LOL! But it is a typical problem with these cars....the burning oil and all. I put in that restore (4cyl formula) and I did notice less consumption of oil. Along with some Lucas products you may be ok...but as stated above, STOP SHIFTING AT 5200 RPMS! Not good!

[Faction]

why shift so high, then eventually come to another stop?

[Jaygza01]

alright so I read all posts, and i will check out the coolant level, because like i said before I do smell coolant and ive been working so much i dont have time to flush and change hoses like planned. I am going to try the lucas stuff because ive used lucas before and it works miracles. Since I put in the stage 2 clutch, when i let go of the clutch the car just lunges and it has so much pick up that if i let off the gas the car pulls back so i feel like i should shift at high rpms. I know its not a race car and its a family sedan, trust me i know this but when i drive it, it feels like a fun race car, which is probably why ive had to put so much money into it. With the mechanics situation, i thought if i fixed random stuff that needed to be fixed it might help out, i have just had so much bad luck with mechanics in my area, they like to blow your head up or add "unexpected charges" . Now if i buy a compression tester at advanced auto how do you go about testing it? thanks again for all the input !

[Jaygza01]

also to answer the question of the rebuild. What happened was I had a local performance shop(Burkart) work on my car and after driving it they didnt fix the tensior that was bad and when i drove it, it was stuck and my engine blew, so my uncle who is a mechaic rebuilt my motor and the other shop who f**ed it up paid for the valves, I couldve sworn he took out my engine to rebuild it, so i know it was valves, rockers and stuff. All in all it cost me around $900-$1,000 (my uncle is a crook so that price might be high)
I will try to shift at lower rpms, but if I shift too low then 2nd gear is hard to hit without grinding.....

[evil-G-nius]

1000 is high. I got an entire rebuilt balance shaft deleted long block for that + shipping. Anyway, you are clearly trying to learn the car still...when I first installed my 5 speed I noticed it was rough shifting all around. Just take it easy and it will loosen and be smoother. The other thing about you shifting into second at lower rpms and it grinding...try holding the clutch in longer and let out once the car is fully in second. OR the other thing might be you are not pushing the clutch all the way in...move your seat forward just a little to make sure you are hitting the floor during shifts. Hopefully that helps

[galantryinbattle]

So my 95 galant 5spd burns oil quick, i havent driven it in a while and just noticed this problem again, i have to add a couple quarts every week or so, maybe a little longer. But I just changed my oil with 10w30 synthetic blend and before i knew it id burned out all my oil, I shift high at like 5,200 rpm, i dont know if because im driving the hell out of my car that its burning oil quick or what it could be...? I am changing both 02 sensors, the cap, rotor, fuel filter, anything to increase performance, maybe a sensor is gone?:smt019

nevermind I think they just about covered everything.

[RAZ_76]

All in all it cost me around $900-$1,000 (my uncle is a crook so that price might be high)

wow! youre uncle charged you labor?? He is a crook..

[96galantjohnmcc]

synthetic blend would make the oil burning or leakingworse then using reg oil

[tom04841]

I would be willing to bet my left nut that your uncle either (1) didn't install the valve seals properly and they aren't fully seated, or (2) didn't hone the cylinder walls properly not allowing your rings to seal. Do a leakdown test, as this will pin point your problem.

[skrap]

well if you decide to use an engine additive use that new zmax stuff it is absolutly amazing. Its like 2o dollars a bottle but i swear by it. The first time i put it in my car i swear you can really feel the difference in the performance of your motor. I would try that and if it still burning oil up then its time to tear your motor apart... And dont have someone jerk you around. Hell read up and if your going to go that far as to getting it rebult you might as well slap a dohc head on there. lol