OK the chitlon manual was telling me to just hold the pedal down then open the bleeder valve. As for adjusting the pedal, I know how to do it but how should I adjust it.
You need two people to bleed a clutch. The correct way is the following:
You need;
-Clear bottle with some fluid in it
-Hose to go from slave bleeder valve to bottle
1. The end of the hose in the bottle should be submerged in fluid(so it doesnt suck up air back into the line before you close the valve)
2. One person pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times and hold the pedal to the floor on the last pump
3. While the first person is holding the pedal to the floor, the second person opens the bleeder valve until fluid squirts into the bottle. Once it stops flowing, completely shut the valve
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you see no air bubbles coming out of the line in the bottle
Be sure to keep an eye on the master resevoir, if you run it out of fluid, you are basically starting the process over as you just sucked air into the line. It may take a whole bottle of brake fluid to completely bleed the line depending how bad it is.
I always work by myself so I got a speed bleeder from Autozone. Just open the bleeder, attach a host, start pumping.
7g for life!
OK the chitlon manual was telling me to just hold the pedal down then open the bleeder valve. As for adjusting the pedal, I know how to do it but how should I adjust it.
Yeah working alone is hard, but everyone I know stay on the PS2. I'm just going get a speed bleeder.
Is it ok that I can move the clutch fork toward the slave, but not away.
Thanks for your help.
As long as the clutch pedal is at about the same height as the brake pedal, the master shouldnt need any adjustment.
7g for life!
i've been driving on a brand new master and slave for about 4 years and tacked on 60K miles, still working like brand new (knock on wood). i would never, ever, buy an aftermarket or used master or slave. spend the money now and you'll have peace of mind for years.
I bled the system with a vacuum pump, but I think air is still getting into the system some how. I cant get a solid stream of fluid when bleeding, I'm just going to order a new slave,master and stainless hydro-line. I can put the car in gear and drive, but reverse is hard to get into.
SS line is the way to go man.
reverse is always the bitch to get into. shift into second and while the clutch is still depressed then go into R, much easier.
Really, I had a lil grind when the setup was first installed, but now when its all settled everything is smooth.
Ive never had any problems with reverse.
7g for life!
Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
Drive It Like You Stole It!
7G Erubini Body Kit for sale
http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57678
My clutch pedal has a similar problem. At first glance the Master was almost out of fluid and I refilled it. It did not improve to the pedal. I followed the clutch line can’t find a leak. I check the slave boot no leak! But the bolt seemed very easy to compress with my hand. I am going to try to bleed the system and then replace both slave and master.
I can put the car in reverse now, but the pedal is still soft with hardly any resistance. Just waiting to get paid to get the new parts.
Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
Drive It Like You Stole It!
7G Erubini Body Kit for sale
http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57678
Let me try that, the car can go into gear alright but the pedal has to be to the floor.
Rubber line will not give you much resistance. You need the SS one. Does anything change if you pump the pedal a couple of times before shifting?
no nothing changes. When I went and adjust the master rod, I noticed rod connecting the clutch pedal to the master is not centered. Its just sitting in the tube that contains the connecting rod, I think that my be my problem. Didnt notice it before, but I'm sure its not to be that way.
As for my engine, gonna try some engine restore and hope it works. What to let the Galant hibernate the rest of the winter.
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