I don't see a problem with using a 4 gauge wire..
so I wanna put the battery in my trunk and I have been looking at relocation kit and I noticed that all 2GA and some are 0GA so my question is what's wrong with using a 4GA ??
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
I don't see a problem with using a 4 gauge wire..
I think it depends on the draw on your electrical system. Just from my limited knowledge about car audio, I would say that you can't go wrong with 0/1 ga. It can only improve your electrical system's ability to handle the draw on your electrical system. I think you may be better served to do a google search for a 'big 3' upgrade. There is a lot of information that describes the benefits of going with a larger gauge wire for your Alternator Positive to Battery Positive, Battery Negative to Chassis and Chassis to Engine Block. If you're not running a sound system or anything else that would put greater demand than stock on your car, then you may be okay.
relocating the battery is different from doing the "big 3".
when you relocate the battery, you still need to run the power back up front for the starter, the alternator, and other components. Not sure what the max rated power a 4AWG wire can handle, but I would think that 2 AWG would be more suitable to carry all that current.
i have 4 gauge in the 7g... works fine
ZIGONATOR
You're right. It's definitely different. But the idea is still the same right? You can go wrong if you think that you're okay with a wire gauge you're not sure about (i.e. 4 gauge or something). But you really can't go wrong, in fact, you will be doing your system a service by ODing with wire gauge that is thicker than you think you need. Albeit, it will cost more for sure. Right?
My setup is run the way it is due to NHRA regulations.
For track use, I have to have an external kill switch that kills power to the whole car. For this reason, this is how my setup is.
Alternator 4awg--------> Battery (in trunk) 2awg----> 150amp inline fuse--2awg to a kill switch (I take out the tail light and mount the switch in the hole for track days only) 2awg--------> to a 6 port 24k gold power distribution block. All the factory wires that went to the positive terminal on the battery are in some way attached to the distribution block with the exception of the alternator power wires. The alternator wires have to run to the battery in the back so that the kill switch will kill ALL the power. I removed the 150amp fuse that used to be up front on the positive battery cable.
if your running a stereo system in your car, I would suggest running 2awg from the battery to the front rather than 4awg. The reason being the power from the alternator has to travel all the way to the back of the car to the battery, so the larger the gauge, the better. Especially since your going to power your amps from the battery in the trunk because its easier.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
Your alternator is only making 115 Volts at 60 cycles.. If a 10GA wire could handle it, why couldn't a 4GA.
Tell me otherwise if i'm wrong here, but it makes sense to me.
they put the thicker cable due to the length that the power has to travel now as apposed to it just having to travel maybe 1 1/2 feet to get to the starter it now has to travel like 7 feet and thicker wire will make that travel back up front much easier for the battery amps. your only getting 12.6 volts at start up regardless so how many amps you can get to that starter is crucial. bigger wire = less restriction
great input so far guys please keep it coming im trying to make up my mind on this and it looks like im buying about 10ft of 2GA wire but i still wanna hear as many opinions as i can
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
True! Only on the DC side though.. Direct current is limited when it comes to distance and can dissipate into heat easier and faster than AC can.
only 10 feet? think that will b enough?
ZIGONATOR
10 feet probably isnt enough, im going to say more like 15. i bought a 50 foot spool of 0 AWG when i was installing my subs, and i used it for a single run, plus roman used it for a single run, and there is ~15 feet left. so figure we used ~35 feet, of course i left a little extra slack, as well as a short run to ground it to a bolt in the back seat
...pain is temporary, pride is forever...
+1
I bought a Taylor Racing battery relocation kit, it came with 15 feet and it barely made it. I had to run it thru the car to make it work. Like I have it coming thru the firewall, under the center console, under the carpet, under the back seat and into the trunk. I say 20 feet is a good length.
99' Galant ESOriginally Posted by qnz
4G64/63T
AEM EMS
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