How To:6G72 5 Speed Swap

[bmaddock]

***BIG THANKS TO: DryBear, HondaKillerGTZ, Goosey2099, my dad, and multiple others.***

As some of you may know, my automatic crapped out on me a few weeks ago and after heated debates between my parents and my wallet (yeah I know sound like a kid now haha), but I decided to go 5 speed.

Now there are great tutorials out there for this, but I want to make a decent, at least picture log of what I will encounter and the fact that there truthfully isn’t that great of a log for the v6’ers, even though it is similar.

Background Research:
I4 Swap by Goosey
I4 Swap by Ivory8g
V6 Swap by roni
6G72T's 5 speed
Haynes Repair Manual
Workshop Manual for 8gs in PDF download: http://www.sendspace.com/file/mhclpg
Another Service Manuall
Tearstone Performance - 2000-2002 Eclipse Factory Service Manual
Tearstone Performance - 2003-2005 Eclipse Factory Service Manual

DryBear and WarmAndSCSI also pointed out to me:
The V6 is actually a bit different from the I4. You will need:
Passenger side intermediate axle shaft - it may be easier to get the entire assembly from a junk yard.
V6 Manual Starter Plate - the hole for the starter is different from the auto starter plate

Other than that, most of the tutorial on TGC will apply. You may find it difficult to install the tranny without the use of a lift. I had to pull the engine out and install the engine+tranny as one unit. Was not too bad, but was a lot of work.

Parts and Costs:
This may vary depending on the deal, my tranny had 90k on it. SEARCH on www.car-part.com, able to find awesome deals and close to you.

2001 Dodge Stratus R/T tranny(came with tranny mount)..$650
Passenger Side Drive Axle…………………………................ ….….$35
Linkage, cables, etc…………………………………........ ..........…….$75
Shifter Assembly…………………………………... .................……….$65
Clutch Pedal……………………………………… ......................………$30
Master/Slave Cylinders.,……………………………...... .........……..$50
Fluids: Gear and Engine............................................ ......$50
Flexible Sockethead........................................ ................$10
Resurfacing the Flywheel.......................................... ......$55
Miscellaneous Parts and Accessories.................................$100
New Exedy Clutch …………………………………........... ..........$130
Total: $1295
Now that includes everything except:
-Clutch (Most likely will need to be replaced)
-Flywheel (could resurface the one from the donor transmission, but Im going to buy new)
-2 NEW axle seals
-Speaking of axle seals, mine were fine on the donor tranny so I didn't bother changing them because TJ was saying to me that they are somewhat of pain to get in right, If you go too far in it leaks or too far out it leaks. So if they are good i say leave em be, but don't yell at me when you start the car after the swap and realize you are leaking
-Manual Starter plate (need to take from donor car as well)
-*tip* Also the passenger side drive axle needs to be ABS or nonABS, according to your model

VVVIf using the auto starter plate, as you can see it is closer in and will thus grind on the flywheel

Manual Starter plate on top of automatic starter plate:

More tips from WarmAndSCSI:
-Make sure the trans is a F5M51
-Match the flywheel/clutch combo. Example: eclipse clutch with eclipse flywheel and R/t clutch with R/T flywheel

Tips from me:
-75W-90 Gear Oil
-Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid for master cylinder
-Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the brake pedal and master cylinder holes, or be prepared for metal splinters
-When all interior is out, clean in the center console, when else are you going to be in there haha

*Not even going to bother posting dates, this swap will take me a good while because of the lack of time*

THE BEGINNING
I began by propping my car up in the drive way and degreased the majority of the underside of the car and prepped the garage.

VVVBegan to gut some of the interior in prep of installing the clutch pedal and shifter assembly
(I had issues with removing center console, refer to this for help)

VVVMake sure to neatly label and bag nuts,screws, and bolts accordingly

VVV If you look above the pedals, you will find a piece of firewall similar to this. (Top left) VVVThis is where we will be dremeling


VVVActually dont bolt the master yet, first slide the clutch pedal in, then bolt

VVVNow I opted out on buying a new brake pedal because of the cost of the booster and instead are shaving my pedal. As roni said, you just take the brake pedal cover and drill around it.

VVVLooks uneven so i did trim the left side some more.


VVVTook intake off and battery (yes!, i will finally get rid of the eyesore rust :) )

For anyone wondering what else i did:
-i drained tranny oil
-disconnected shift cables
-disconnected and labeled electrical connectors *DONT CUT ANYTHING*
-disconnected oil cooler lines
-loosen my lug nuts, jacked the car up and removed the wheels

[FYI: For the removal of the auto, I highly recommend going to Autozone and purchasing the Haynes Repair Manual, this is what I am following]

So today i picked up tranny and etc.

VVV And to save a little money, i just took the brake pedal cover and am going to trim down the auto one to fit.


VVV Shifter in, what a pain to get the shift lines in and out


VVV Here is how I did them, quoted from Neteru's swap on galantforums

I used a flexhead gearwrench, $10 from lowes

Removed the glove box and lower dash

Bolts on the right and the left of the cable

The right one will be easy to get to, the left one is a pain. Bend the cable out of the way and tie it to something. I had to put the end of the wrench on the bolt with my fingertips, since you can't see it and it swivels back easly.

Kind of a tight spot to turn the wrench, so I put some tape on the end of it, and held onto it with a vice, than turned it that way.

Tada!

-OR-
As Drybear did, use flexible extensions! (i wish i just went and got these instead)


VVVRemoved starter, but we avoided taking off part of the downpipe from the headers so we simply drained my oil.

VVVWe then began removing the axles



VVVAnd prepared for dropping the automatic



-Placed a jack under the transaxle
-Double checked all connections are off
-Removed transaxle mount bolts
-Removed crossmember
-Removed Torque Convertor Cover to obtain access to the driveplate bolts
-Checked for no connections again
VVVlowered the auto out :) (well sorta fell out but its whatev)

VVVTrq convertor was still on hanging on the motor so I simply had to pull it off

VVVAfter bolting one of the driveplate bolts to the outer holes (to keep the crank from rotating) I removed the 8 bolts holding it to the crank

VVVThen removed started plate

END OF DISASSEMBLY


Now first i went and bought some threadlock

VVVAnd used it to bolt my flywheel to the crank (Torque to 74 Nm or 55 ftlb)

VVV For reference I used a tool that helped grab the teeth of the flywheel on with my left hand and then the torque wrench in my right hand

VVVAnd using the alignment tool placed the clutch disc


REFER TO POST #79 for clutch/flywheel drama
VVVPressure Plate on, pull out alignment tool (Torque to 19 Nm or 14 ftlb)

VVV Cool pic of alignment..




Didn't get pictures to but before bolting the transaxle to the engine, make sure to replace your throw out bearing. To do this, we had to remove the fork, then take the TOB out. Its a pain in the ass getting the fork off but that was the only way the TOB would slip off the inner shaft. If some one comes up with a better method of removing the fork, please post it. We had to drill a tiny hole to slip the rod the fork sits on out of the tranny
VVV Here is the tiny hole next to the crossmember that isnt plugged.

^^^And please ignore the rust and scraps on the crossmember, thats the crossmember from the R/T i pulled my parts off and it had a better mount on it so i put that one on. I am not the bad of a driver haha


And the moment of truth....
-Slipping the tranny on required a few things if you plan on doing it in a house garage and no air lift or anything fancy. We used a engine lift for the engine, and then maneuvered two jacks on the tranny to work it in.

A few important pieces to remove would be the rear tranny mount, all battery tray supports, lower coolant hose housing (with the thermostat, good time to replace it), and the studs on the top tranny mount.
FYI: The aluminum thread for the thermostat housing is SOFT, so be careful not to strip...and also apply liquid gasket while your at it, no sense in putting it together and having a leak.....not that i did....haha
VVVRear Mount


We then aimed the tranny in the way it came out. Try aiming for where the rear tranny mount was. Then its a matter of lowering the tranny and engine to the perfect level and wedging it in. Trust me, you will know when the inner shaft is finally meeting the clutch disc perfectly, and once your in it should slide in like butter (we put some good grease on the splines before putting it in).

Small things to remember:
Place the small plate covering where the driveplate bolts used to be on the motor side of the setup
VVV This

Replace Cotter pins where the driveaxles come through (at lowes)


And this is the black harness we use to trick the ECU into thinking its in Neutral

*Will add pics and instruction on what wires later

We then can run the clutch
VVV Sorry no real pics, but its fairly simple.




Final Thoughts
I won't lie, that swap was a bit of a PITA at times, but well worth it. The car is quite honestly a new beast, and drives amazing.

Key parts of the swap that were most irritating were bolting the shift lines through the firewall, removing the TOB (because of the fork), aligning the tranny without the use of hydraulic lifts and such, and thats about it.

Make sure you have all the correct parts together before beginning the swap and expect the tiniest things to be the most painful and take the longest.

Seriously, anyone that needs help or advice, I am willing to lend a hand or at least a comment, PM me anytime.




For Later on...,
HOW TO WIRE CRUISE CONTROL CORRECTLY

To make the cruise control work you have to cut/remove/eliminate a wire from the cruise ECU harness, (pin #3, its a pink/green wire), located behind the center/lower dash, its visible in upper left of the picture; run a wire from the clutch pedal interlock switch (the one farther from the firewall on the clutch pedal) to the cruise ECU, cut cable pin #13 (black/yellow), connect that one (cruise ECU side, note wire position in the below pic) to switch pin #2 and connect pin#1 from the switch to chassis ground. It works, I tested it. I don't know if you have to remove the lower dash to access the connector (I don't think so), I had everything disassembled for the manual swap. Anyways, look picture below.

Picture of what to wire

I hope this is useful for someone else!

[Jeffylou87]

Thank you god! Take millions of pictures. I plan on doing this very soon.

[DryBear]

FYI, the 3G Eclipse service manual can be found at club3g.com, and can be helpful as well.

[bronxbombr]

Nice, cant wait to try it.

[bronxbombr]

hey is it me or is my post count fucked up. I have way over 6000 post and now i see not even a fraction of them.

[mrjaydeeone]

hey is it me or is my post count fucked up. I have way over 6000 post and now i see not even a fraction of them.

Albert refer to this post https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=34569

[00galantguy]

awesome. very well written and easy to follow!

[bmaddock]

Thanks you guys, Im really hoping this will help anyone on the verge of trying to swap. Mine is going to be slow but I plan on making it easy to follow and help collect a lot of info in this one thread.

Also, once I'm finished, I'll post this swap thread on a few other forums because honestly almost every galant related forum has helped me with information so far.

[GOOSEY2099]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

[Da_silvagride]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

4hrs! wow bro. You want to help do mine in the summer?

[DryBear]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

What that on a V6? The I4s are pretty easy to swap, as you can benchpress the manual transmission in

[djakay]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

If you guys can do that for my V6, i'm coming after you this summer.

[bmaddock]

Wow! 4 hours is ridiculous. My biggest issues are that I don't have the parts in my physical possesion yet, doing it in my garage, and the fact that basically its just me and my dad are doing it, and he, as well as I, have been working a lot lately. So I'm taking it slow until I have everything. :/

[GOOSEY2099]

v6 can be done even quicker

[GOOSEY2099]

What that on a V6? The I4s are pretty easy to swap, as you can benchpress the manual transmission in

All you need is the right tools. Like a hydrolic transmission jack :) Last year i had to take my own tranny out due to a bad bearing. The thing was shot so badly that i had to do it in the driveway.... Never doing that again..

[Jeffylou87]

Roman.. You know I'm contacting you when my tranny arrives right?

[GOOSEY2099]

no problem... Call anytime..

[bmaddock]

**Updated**

I hope this is helping some people. Like I said very slow work but whatever. This saturday me and my dad should be dropping the automatic and if all goes well and i get my clutch shipped in by then, will try to lift the 5 speed in. :)

[GOOSEY2099]

you didn't need to take all that off, just needed a 12mm swivel socket.

[bmaddock]

Yeah i realized that haha, i didnt know and plus i was bored waiting to get all the parts so i just started ripping things apart and cleaning them. I wish the project could move faster but my time frames arent matching up right.