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Thread: Sound damping questions

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  1. #1

    Sound damping questions

    I did a fair amount of searching, but didn't come up with much, so here goes.

    I want to put some ghettomat in to reduce the road noise in the car. I'm going to have my carpet out soon, so I want to do the floor.

    I noticed last time that there is some sort of... stuff on the floor. It's like a hard asbestos-looking material, and there are several layers of it on the floor. Is that sound damping material that's there already? Will it reduce the effectiveness of dynamat/ghettomat if I put it on top of the existing floor layers?

    For the doors, would it be more effective to add it to the inside metal (just under the plastic panels or the very outside (the inside surface of the body panel sheet metal)? Should I cover the holes for more effective sound damping? Will ghettomat/peel n seal or other Lowe's generic stuff have a hard time sticking if I make sure to put it on well?
    2000 Mitsubishi Galant (totalled by semi, RIP)

    2000 Mitsubishi Galant - Bought off Craigslist, received organ donation from last one:
    - Engine/5spd trans/interior/suspension/brakes/etc. all moved from old car
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  2. #2
    I really hate to bump my own thread, but has no one here tried to insulate their floor against road noise? Even a best guess is appreciated. I hate to waste a bunch of peel n seal if it's not going to make a difference and/or make a huge mess. Will it be effective if I apply it to the factory substrate between the body and carpet?

    I'm going to have my carpet out in the next couple days, and I'd like to do it then if I do it at all.
    2000 Mitsubishi Galant (totalled by semi, RIP)

    2000 Mitsubishi Galant - Bought off Craigslist, received organ donation from last one:
    - Engine/5spd trans/interior/suspension/brakes/etc. all moved from old car
    - 5spd | Outlander IM | StopTech BBK | Defi VSD-X HUD

  3. #3
    Experienced TGC Member showtime's Avatar
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    For the doors I would cover everything, even the holes. Do it right onto the metal. As for the floor my experience has always been applying it directly to the metal, so taking the stock dampening out of it. I had a friend that worked at a local audio shop and thats what they always did and thats what we did in in titan. Anywho, I have never heard of ghettomat...I have only used the best which is dynamat. Fatmat is very decent as well if you want to save a little dough. Best prices for dynamat that I have found is sonicelectronix

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by showtime View Post
    Anywho, I have never heard of ghettomat...
    Lol, I'm pretty sure that's just what we call any generic equivalent not marketed as sound damper. In my case, it's peel n seal from Lowe's roofing department.

    I'm not doing this for a sound system, and I'm not going to shell out $200 for enough material to do my doors. Besides, I thought Brownbread/B-quiet was the best? :p

    *Edit* Thanks for the pointers, BTW. I appreciate your advice, despite the fact that I just seemed to make fun of all of it. :D
    2000 Mitsubishi Galant (totalled by semi, RIP)

    2000 Mitsubishi Galant - Bought off Craigslist, received organ donation from last one:
    - Engine/5spd trans/interior/suspension/brakes/etc. all moved from old car
    - 5spd | Outlander IM | StopTech BBK | Defi VSD-X HUD

  5. #5
    Experienced TGC Member showtime's Avatar
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    I wouldnt personally use any ghetto mat, fatmat is relatively cheap on ebay. just my $.02

  6. #6
    i have some questions too.

    will ghetto mat weigh more or less than the stock sound deadening material?
    (if i take the stock stuff out and replace it with ghetto matt)

    also will it function better than stock?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by dknight3 View Post
    i have some questions too.

    will ghetto mat weigh more or less than the stock sound deadening material?
    (if i take the stock stuff out and replace it with ghetto matt)

    also will it function better than stock?
    I think it'll probably weigh more, and the stuff that's already on the floor is going to be a pain to get off. It's pretty brittle, and you'll most likely have to chip it off. If you haven't already, start with the doors and see if that gives you a good noise reduction. (That's what I'm going to do.)

    As far as using ghetto mat or dynamat (or equivalent), I figure I'll try the ghettomat, and if it doesn't work too well, I haven't lost much money. Plus, I've had some people tell me it works pretty well as long as you're careful applying it.
    2000 Mitsubishi Galant (totalled by semi, RIP)

    2000 Mitsubishi Galant - Bought off Craigslist, received organ donation from last one:
    - Engine/5spd trans/interior/suspension/brakes/etc. all moved from old car
    - 5spd | Outlander IM | StopTech BBK | Defi VSD-X HUD

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by charris View Post
    I think it'll probably weigh more, and the stuff that's already on the floor is going to be a pain to get off. It's pretty brittle, and you'll most likely have to chip it off. If you haven't already, start with the doors and see if that gives you a good noise reduction. (That's what I'm going to do.)

    As far as using ghetto mat or dynamat (or equivalent), I figure I'll try the ghettomat, and if it doesn't work too well, I haven't lost much money. Plus, I've had some people tell me it works pretty well as long as you're careful applying it.
    For the factory sound dampning material you can use dry ice to get it off. Makes it 100 times easier and leaves little to know adhesive on the car. Just put gloves on (of course) and set the block on the insulation for a minute or two and then remove the insulation. The dry ice gets the insulation so cold it makes the adhesive release.

    As far as the "ghetto mat" you keep referring to, it doesn't have to be dynomat but stick to a known brand. When I was installing for a living people always used that cheap butyl stuff from the hardware store and that shit melts and makes a horrible mess. I guess it doesn't matter if you never plan on working under your carpet again, but IMO stick to dynamat, fat mat, second skin, etc. Just my .02

  9. #9
    I want to do this too.. someone did have a post here before about some product from home depot... I dont know what it is..

    But anyways, I wonder if it would make the car heavier?

  10. #10
    Experienced TGC Member showtime's Avatar
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    It might be heavier than the stock stuff, but its probably lighter than dynamat or any of those products, someone give it a shot. I bet it would work just fine.

  11. #11
    all these products will work, it just depends on if you apple it right. Im doing the same when i put in my new carpet. i had a thread on this subject awhile back.

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  12. #12
    You are here entirely tooo much!! Jeffylou87's Avatar
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    I did my whole trunk for my sound system.. I used FatMat.. Works amazingly great but it does add weight..

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