How To: 8G Rear Disc Brake Conversion

[run1206]

I made a tutorial a few years ago on how to convert the rear drum brakes to rear disc brakes.
Here's the link on GalantForums.com (for those registered there as well)
http://www.galantforums.com/phpbb/vi...hp?f=91&t=2656

full tutorial:
Ok, so i finally changed my rear drums to disc brakes. Special thanks to 90crxfreak for helping me with the install, rez888 for having the brakes for sale, and all the members of GalantForums.com who gave me info on the brakes. Now, onto the tutorial.....


The brakes were from a '99 Galant V6, didn't take a pic of them before hand, but they were a lil rusty and the backing plates were bent out of shape, so we fixed them up and a local shop resurfaced the rotors. You'll need PB Blaster, a 10mm and 12mm wrench, vice grip wrench, torque wrench, pry bar (if necessary), breaker bar, 14mm wrench or socket (preferably socket), screwdriver, flashlight (if in night), some good food and good music! :D

First up, block the front wheels with bricks or anything that will prevent the car from rolling, jack up the car and remove the wheels, and disengage the E-Brake. (And use jack stands to keep car up.)

Next , remove the drum....refer to the service manual in the "Downloads" section to see the complete drum assembly.
(http://www.galantforums.com/modules.php?name=Downloads)

Here's some pics with the drum off the car....


Notice the small hole next to one of the large lug nut holes, there's two of these holes that are threaded for a 12 mm bolt which will remove the drum off the hub.

(Note: tighten the two bolts evenly to remove the drum.)


Okay, now the assembly should look like this...


Next, unscrew the hard line from the soft line from the drum asembly. PPreferably, use a 10mm line wrench, but if you don't have a line wrench, use vice grip wrenchs, and be aware to not tighten so tight that it distort the 10mm fitting. Use PB Blaster to loosen the 10mm fitting.) (this pic does show the disc, but is used at this time to show use of the vice grips.)


Next, remove the soft line C clip that is holding up the soft line. As soon as you do this, the soft line can be seperated.

(Note: wiggle the clip back and forth for easy removal.)


Next, remove the 12mm bracket for the soft line that is attached to the knuckle, use PB Blaster.


Next, remove the four bolts in the back of the knuckle that runs through the backing plate and the hub.



(This pic will be used later, it's just a refernce to where the bolts are . Use PB Blaster in the back, in the bolts, and where the hub is located.)

Next, remove the hub and the backing plate.
Note: Some excessive force may be necessary....(90crxfreak aka Jared takin a crack at it )


Now, the "bare" knuckle should look like this...


Now, in order to get the complete drum brake assembly off, you need to detach the E-Brake cable. To do this, you first must remove the C clip from the inside of the backing plate.

(Disregard the focused hub, my photography is terrible :oops: 8O )
Note: Wiggle the C clip to one side where you can get the screwdriver in between the C clip and the E-Brake cable. Pry off from the E-Brake cable.



Now, take a screwdriver and push the E-Brake mechanism inward towards the other side, like so....


Now you can access the actual cable connected to the mechanism you pulled up. Might be a lil difficult, but take off the cable from the mechanism.


Now that the E-Brake cable is out, just remove it from the drum assembly.
Front

and side image


ok, flip the disc backing plate to the back, you'll notice the piping for the E-Brake is too small and too long for the E-Brake to fit.



So, we have to drill the hole wider and use the dremel to cut the top down about 2mm.





and here's what it looks like after drilling and dremeling...


our calculations aren't exact, so measure how far you have to cut, so take your time with the customization.

Now, you have to grind down the C clip opening on the cable itself, be EXTRA careful when doing this, it shouldn't be much more bigger than the dremel cutting disc itself.


Now, test fit and make sure that the cable fits in perfectly with the E-Brake cable C clip.
Then take the cable out after the test. To secure the brake cable, drill a hole on the side of the backing plate shown here...


Now, put the E-Brake cable back into the piping and attach the cable into the center-moving mechanism(parking brake lever).

the backing plate bolt will help you to get the E-Brake cable into the parking brake lever



Install the Brake disc C clip after putting the whole assembly back on the knuckle (connect hub to backing plate, then both to the knuckle. make sure the hub is in the correct position, the 4 bolt holes should align perfectly.)





Now, with the hole you drilled on the side of the backing plate, tie the cable taut with the backing plate using a ziptie.



Make sure you clean the assembly real good, use brake cleaner...


Get those rotors too...and wipe off the dirt on the rotors too




when putting the backing plate back on the knuckle, use a torque wrench and tighten to 60ft/lbs. No more, no less...


Now, install the rotor
Make sure the piston on the caliper is fully in, has to be done evenly, and be careful, cuz you can tear the inner piston ring, which may require a complete caliper overhaul, once again, take your time.



Now, remove the old hard lines from the calipers, use PB Blaster


For those who don't know what PB Blaster is...


Now, install the brake pads into the calipers, then install the soft brake line. Make sure you put in the C clip before you attach the hardline, this will make it easier to tighten.

use Brake Quiet (or brake silencing grease, usually sold with new pads at local auto store)


pads into the caliper(this is me run1206 )...


caliper onto the backing plate


install C clip...


screw bolt tight with vice grips (don't over-tighten)



don't forget to spray the bleeding screw with PB Blaster (to prevent stripping)


Finally, bleed your brakes (we did two, but it'd be better to bleed all 4)

here's how the brakes look finished...


Sorry the rotor looks a lil dirty, started raining a lil and tried to clean it off.

Once again, i thank 90crxfreak for helping me install the brakes, rez888 for the sale of the brakes, and the members of GalantForums.com with information and research on the project.

[es_fact]

Great tut bro.. I actually linked it as well on my build thread.


lol at the focused HUB :)

[run1206]

no problem! always good to see more people doing the disc conversion

[es_fact]

so what about the proportioning valve? Technically, by removing your drums, your adding more pressure to your front rotors... you'd have to swap out the proportioning valve lol. I guess in order to add more breaking power to the back. Disks use much more pressure that drums do, so if your outputting the same breaking to the back disks as you did with the drums... you didn't really upgrade your breaking...


I'm not saying I've done it lol... I'm just saying that this is what were doing lol

[run1206]

yeah someone mentioned that to me before
i haven't removed the proportioning valve yet, i'd probably have to check if anyone's swapped the proportioning valve as well.

[es_fact]

I searched a bit.. and found a tut by I think MKO on his 7G lemme try to link it..

[es_fact]

Here it is..

http://socallifestyle.com/rear_disc_.../tutorial.html

I can't remember the name of this driver lol.. but i recognize the car

it's not mko lol

[run1206]

i know that car, that's peanotation's car, long time 7G TGC member.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/member.php?u=1041
pretty sure he can probably verify this mod as well.

[es_fact]

I though it peano's car lol..

[tamim13]

So, from what is being said, we need to change out the 8g with drum's proportioning valve (Pressure metering valve, galant, 2.4l, w/o abs) to the "Pressure metering valve, galant, 3.0l, w/o abs, as the online catalogue says?

[nyjets985]

So, from what is being said, we need to change out the 8g with drum's proportioning valve (Pressure metering valve, galant, 2.4l, w/o abs) to the "Pressure metering valve, galant, 3.0l, w/o abs, as the online catalogue says?

ya that was my next question im doin this in a few days? ? if any body has already done this with there 8g they should make a tuturial

[es_fact]

I posted a tut... well kinda lol

I think you should PM peano and ask him. You don't really have to, but it IS way better for your front disks.

As for me... I've had the parts from MKO for about 1 month now. But I've done nothing with them until I'm able to figure out this problem.

[run1206]

you don't have to, but it's better for the front brakes, since it will even out the pressure to the rear brakes as well. i didn't do this extra mod, i've ran my rear discs for about three years now, and i've never locked my brakes.....*knock on wood*

[tamim13]

Well, the part is only $50 if the v6 pressure metering valve can be used. I just did the swap last weekend, but ended up finding the backing plates are bent as hell, so bought new backing plates, etc. Everything is new on the rear swap except the calipers. If my car is not totaled, I'm going to get this part and see if it makes things better.

[es_fact]

You don't really need new backing plates as they basically do nothing :)

I'm going to just bang mine back into shape :) lol

[run1206]

You don't really need new backing plates as they basically do nothing :)

I'm going to just bang mine back into shape :) lol

agreed. my front backing plate is rubbing against the rotor, just bang it back a lil bit into proper form.

@tammi: would you know the part number for the v6 proportioning valve? maybe a pic of it?
i'm gonna check the Galant service manual to see if i can find it as well.
What place was it $50 at?

[mko]

IF youre gonna do the dual front calipers then you have to use the 8g Galant 3.0L 24V proportioning valve. If youre gonna stay with single pistons then Ill probably have a couple of these by tonite

[es_fact]

have a couple of what? calipers or valves? lol

How much? ( if valves)

[run1206]

IF youre gonna do the dual front calipers then you have to use the 8g Galant 3.0L 24V proportioning valve. If youre gonna stay with single pistons then Ill probably have a couple of these by tonite

i'll probably stay single piston for now, maybe will change to dual at the end of the year. let me know if you do have any prop valves available for the 8G, thanks

[es_fact]

x2 :D