8G I4 to V6 throttle body swap

[4g63lover]

Disclaimer: TGC and myself are not resposible for any damages that might occur as you follow this tutorial. Install at your own risk!

Ok, so I bought a V6 throttle body from Beam514 for my 4G64 and installed it through out last night and today.

I took the hood of my car because it is easier to work on something by the firewall without the hood than with it. You can take yours off or keep it works either way. I also removed my strut bar for easy installation.

Tools needed
Ratchet
Sockets:
14mm
12mm
10mm
8mm
7mm
7mm miniwrench
needle nose pliers
vice grip
an assortment of flathead and phillips screw driver.
and a dremel and cutting disc


First thing you have to remove is the Battery terminals the battery tie downs and battery. I have quick release terminals but I think the stock terminals are 8mm I believe and the battery tie downs are 10mm.

Unplug the MAF

Remove the breather tube from the VC to the intake

Now use your 10mm socket and loosen the clamp on the 90 degree coupler on the throttle body. Remove the 10mm ground bolt from the cam sensor that mounts the intake to the engine. Remove the intake.

Intake removed. You can now see the throttle body

Unhook the vacuum line from the cruise control. It might need a little force but make sure not to tug on it too hard.

unplug the IAC.


This is where it gets a little difficult. If you got big hand this is where you start cutting your shit up. lol

There are two major coolant lines you have to remove. one behind the throttle body that connects to the EGR and one that is under the throttle body that connects to the lower radiator hose inlet.

use either a flat head or phillips to loosen the clamps on the coolant line on the back of the throttle body. whichever works for you. and use a needle nose or a vice grip (Crescent) for the ones under the throttle body.


Now, unplug the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

It gets a little difficult here. I opted to remove the whole thing off of the TB because I couldnt get any leverage or my hands anywhere behind the connector to get the retaining clip off to get it off of the TPS. This is where the 7mm socket and miniwrench comes in.

Use the socket on the drivers side screw and use the miniwrench for the passenger side screw. Wiggle the TPS out. BE CAREFUL.
Use a flathead to pop the retaining clip off of the connector to the TPS. Be careful to not fling it into space because the connector wont go back onto the TPS without that clip!
Heres the TPS off of the TB.


Now moving onto the Throttle body. The Throttle Body has 4 bolts holding it onto the Intake manifold. You can see all four in this picture.

Loosen all four bolts and remove the TB. Don't lose the metal gasket and dont forget to remove the lines on top of the TB. You can now remove the throttle cable. It'll take a little fiddling but I advice to remove the TB off of the intake manifold before removing the cable because it will give you enough slack to remove the cable without kinking it.

Side by side the intake side of the I4 TB and the V6 TB has no diffrence but the intake manifold side is significantly bigger. I'm not exactly sure on how big the I4 TB is but the V6 is a 60mm and its a noticeable difference when you're holding the two TB's side by side.

V6 TB on top. I4 TB on bottom


Before you bolt the TB onto the manifold, make sure to hook the throttle cable back on. Easier while you have slack than when its bolted to the manifold. Again, be careful and take your time fiddling with it to avoid kinking the cable. Once you got the cable on bolt the throttle body onto the manifold using the 12mm socket and ratchet.


Hook the TPS Sensor back up. I was lucky enough to have had the V6 TPS sent to me by Beam so I didnt have to re-use the I4 TPS that I removed from the I4 TB. Remember that retaining clip? Lock the connector in with it. DONT LOSE IT!

hook the IAC back up again. Once again I was lucky enough that Beam sent me the IAC and TPS so I didnt have to reuse the I4 one.
*NOTE: You need the V6 IAC for this to work properly!

Hook all the lines back up. This will take a little bit of fiddling because the tubes they go on face a different way than the I4 TB so you will have to modify your lines. You're going to have to extend the lines that are located in the back of the TB and shorten the ones under. I cut one of the tubes from the I4 TB to connect to lines for the back. Thats where you need the dremel and cutting disc. Tighten the clamps.

Put the intake back on and tighten the clamp with the 10mm.

Now, put the battery, battery tie down, and battery terminals back in. Plug your MAF back in and start her up!!!


Put your STB and hood back on and take her out for a spin.

Update: I drove the car today to go to work about an hour away and let me tell you the TB swap was one of the best mods i've done. Noticeable difference in response and the engine works at a lower RPM at a certain speed than the I4 TB.

[sponcar]

^ looks good man.....
well sowy if I sound like a noob in this question but yeah maybe I am cuz I dont know much about performance....
thats why I havent do anything on my engine.....
but Im trying to figure out what is this for...!!
its mean more fresh air on the engine???
or more gas on it????

thanks!!!!

[4g63lover]

it makes the engine breathe better. if you take the I4 TB off of the car you'll notice that the intake manifold side is significantly smaller than the outlet. so it makes the car more responsive and breathe easier.

[blue8g]

jigz how long did this take you?

[4g63lover]

hour and a half sunday night and about an hour this morning. going at a slow pace. lol. I was bored. lol.

[sponcar]

mmmm where did u get it..!!!....
and how much did u paid for it???
mmmmm seem pretty nice to me....
so tell us... how do u feel ure car now..???
and did u get better spin with the new mod...???

[beam514]

sponcar he bought it from me lol. It was my old TB that I didn't need after my 3.5L swap

and probably the most time consuming part of this tutorial is ripping the vacuum lines off the TB as they are probably REALLY stuck to the ports

[4g63lover]

mmmm where did u get it..!!!....
and how much did u paid for it???
mmmmm seem pretty nice to me....
so tell us... how do u feel ure car now..???
and did u get better spin with the new mod...???

I love it. My butt dyno says its a little quicker but its probably just more responsive than ever. I cant wait how it will be when its manual swapped. It feels great it was responsive before but its even more responsive now.

sponcar he bought it from me lol. It was my old TB that I didn't need after my 3.5L swap

and probably the most time consuming part of this tutorial is ripping the vacuum lines off the TB as they are probably REALLY stuck to the ports

My vacuum lines actually came off rather easy. Putting the coolant lines back on took more time cuz the ports face different ways for the I4 compared to the V6.

I advice to buy a foot of flexible silicone line before you take your car apart

[SPD_FRK]

One thing to add is to bypass the coolant lines running to the throttle body. You can just loop those lines together and avoid running heated coolant through the throttle body, which as we know heated air is no good.

[4g63lover]

what do you do with the ports on the engine and the IM?

[SPD_FRK]

what do you do with the ports on the engine and the IM?

You can get some rubber caps (basically a vaccum cap I believe what they are called) and just cap off the inlet/outlet of the throttle body cooler fittings. Then, instead of routing to the tb you just run the line continuous to the other side with one hose section

[4g63lover]

huh. I wont run any issues doing that? I might go and try that to lower the intake temps.

[thestig]

i did it and havent had any trouble and noticed a steady performance peak instead of slowly decreasing due to the heat. so i say two thumbs up for the bypass. i might try the V6 tb swap though.

[SPD_FRK]

huh. I wont run any issues doing that? I might go and try that to lower the intake temps.

No you won't have any adverse effects from doing this other than unheated intake air temps. This is something a lot of other platforms do as well for the same reasons, those running forced induction will benefit greatly from this as well.

[4g63lover]

schweet.

[littlerick]

i think i learn atleast 1 thing new everyday on here lol i might start looking into it also

[sponcar]

wow i wanna do this on my car.... just need to find a TB from the v6 lol

[WhiteGalant]

Jigz you started a new trend for all the i4 guys on the site. lol

[SPD_FRK]

Hey, one thing I somehow forgot to mention for this is the Diamante Throttle Body. This was something commonly sought after by the V6 folks, but is a mere 3mm larger than the OEM TB. I posted a lot of the information on my intake link thats in my sig (may have to update that some more though).

If you are not afraid to tinker with the wiring of the difference in sensors the Diamante would honeslty suit the I$ folks much better for an upgrade rather than thos of us with the V6 platform.

[4g63lover]

Jigz you started a new trend for all the i4 guys on the site. lol

I try. lol. Seriously though, I owe it to Adrian. He gave me the idea. This is one of the best mods i've done to my car recently. Not to mention it's not an expensive mod at all.

SPD_FRK, wont you need to port the IM on the I4 to accomodate the Diamante TB I would assume?