I bought the mitsu fluid from a dealer in Waco for 7.15 and I bought for 6.00 from Don Herring Mitsu in Dallas.Originally Posted by Gladiator
are there any places other than dealership that sells mitsu tranny fluid for cheaper?
I bought the mitsu fluid from a dealer in Waco for 7.15 and I bought for 6.00 from Don Herring Mitsu in Dallas.Originally Posted by Gladiator
you can try the equivalent of +3 atf....
something I'm still unclear about the amount of ATF needed.
how large is the capacity since the tutorial suggested to get 10 qts but it says to add 6 qts and flush again? does that mean flush out all 6 quarts of the new fluid
the point of flushing is to clear the lines. but you need to add more fluid to push the old fluid out.Originally Posted by Gladiator
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how would I know the old fluid is out? how many quarts should be flushed out after filling the new fluid in the dipstickOriginally Posted by pinoyesv6
I just bought 8 qts of ATF from Mitsubishi dealer this afternoon, and i am going to change it this weekend.
I get 8 qts cuz' the dealer guy says i only need 5-6 qts for drian and refill, but I took 9 qts in case of anything.
I could of bought the filter, but the dealer guy said it is $55 for the filter w/ a removing kit or something.
Ok, I've had my ATF changed, and turn out It need 10qts. So drive my car very carefully w/ low ATF to the deal to get two qts more. I felt hot air come out of the tranny side of the engine bay. I thought It was noraml breaks in w/ new ATF. It actuall feel really good running on low ATF,haha. My car accelerate better, w/ more solid power from the engine and quicker reaction on the wheels. MY ATF is now back to normal level. But the sporty feeling is gone :( Now, it accelerates like a boat, softly.
However, U don't want to risk it like me, so just take 10 qts.
quick question about tannys and changing the fluid
mine is like way over due, but i heard that on auto trannys if you get a flush, bands inside start breaking and your tranny can blow, is this true?
i need to know so i can change or flush mine
I changed my tranny oil last week. I used 9 1/2 qta ATF.
The mess part of the work is the the ATF cooler connector under the radiator.
oil comes out of both ends when flushing with engine idle. So I make a tool to catch oil from both ends. I took a water bottle , and cut off the top ( for better flow), so it becomes a cyclinder shape w/ one bottum. On the shell near the bottum I did two cuts on each opposite side of the shell, and stuck each end of the oi cooler connector into the cuts each on each side. So I didn't get oil poring all over my under engine bay
03 ES I-4 stock
project done:
Self Tinted
Self tranny fluid changed
Self oil change
Next protject: Timing belt change
First thanks to this forum for helping. My Haynes manual shows the plug on the side of the tranny but when I looked there was nothing in the spot that it indicated so I looked here and found the plug on the bottom.
Well I guess I just wasted 6 quarts of tranny fluid. I changed my fluid but listened to a friend who works at Meineke (they charge $130 for flush and fill, WOW!!), he said there was no need to flush (put 3 quarts in and pump out the old through the cooler lines.), he said that was overkill. But when I just drained it, it only took a little less than 6 quarts and the book says that the tranny holds almost 10 so there's 4 quarts of the old dirty stuff mixed with the new now. Good news was that after 110k miles (I bought it @ 60k and have no idea if the previous owner changed the fluid or not.) there was very little metal dust on the magnet. I'll wait a little and do the change the right way later since it is such a simple procedure. It does shift smoother though. I'm wondering if even though the fluids are mixed could I just drain the cooler again and add 4 quarts? Any opinions?
I did some research on fluid and there are two non-Mitsu SPIII certified fluids that I found, Castrol and I think Mobil. I used the Castrol since I have trusted their fluids for over 30 years in all of my vehicles and it was only $5 a quart v.s $8.5 at Mitsu.
Last edited by shadow83; 12-13-2009 at 01:34 PM
2002 ES, V6, 140K
The Import Multi-vehicle ATF. It is SP III certified.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf
Last edited by shadow83; 12-24-2009 at 04:28 PM Reason: Added link
2002 ES, V6, 140K
UGH I wish I'd read this prior to doing the fluid change this weekend. There was a good quart all over the floor the first time I turned the car on to let it pump the fluid out. For the second time I found a short piece of hose, probably 7" or so, and put it on the nipple as you suggest. I turned it down and zip-tied it to the other hose so they'd stay in one spot, and it worked perfectly. Both sides shot straight down.
Gee thanks, Haynes and Mitsubishi, for completely ignoring that point. Kind of like how you didn't mention coolant was going to go freaking everywhere when the water pump was removed. This car is messy.
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