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Reply With Quote* Rear drum to disc brake conversion. (rear rotor conversion. wtf.) It's late.
This is my first post, because I haven't felt the need to until now...
Sorry, this is a little long.
I was out driving downtown this evening, cruising at a comfortable speed of 30 in a 35mph zone. Some dude in a pos civic ripped by me, and cut me off - so close, in fact, that I was inches from hitting him and had to brake and swerve out of the way (at a nearby curb) at the same time. Unfotunately, my poor little 7G started skidding because of the combination of braking and swerving. And boy, you gotta love not having ABS. Wasn't able to correct enough, and slammed her right up into the curb.
Of course, he sped off and was never heard from again.
Well. Now I get to take my car over to the shop on monday and see what gets to be replaced. My steering wheel is cranked to the right quite a bit, and there's some sweet vibrations that happen when you get up to 35. Oh, and my fairly nice set of Enkei's now has some curb rash on the front right wheel.
Which brings me to the question. I make about a thousand bucks a month, because I'm still in highschool. What would be the most cost effective way to upgrade my brakes? I'm thinking rear rotor conversion would be too expensive. I'd like to keep this under 1000 dollars.
And yes, I know, I probably should have been paying more attention. But I have never been impressed with my vehicle's braking performance, and I am sick and tired of not being able to stop fast enough when an emergency comes up. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks for your time.
* Rear drum to disc brake conversion. (rear rotor conversion. wtf.) It's late.
Front dual piston 3000gt calipers and drilled slotted rotors
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=40353
rear disc swap from mko $110ish shipped
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=40468
rotors from R1 concepts $130ish
pads from R1 concepts $80ish.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=25746
180
+110
+130
+ 80
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$500
plus labor for what you dont do yourself so its within budget.
I had a similar set up on my e36 which is heavier then your 7G and it stopped on a dime. My galant will also be on drilled slotted this summer as well.
Last edited by 03-Galant-ES; 04-11-2010 at 01:12 AM
go get an alignment and have ur wheels balanced and make sure its not bent. for brakes... the rear disc conversion will run you about 250-300 and thats with the new backing plates, new rotors and pads and the eclipse prop valve and you could prolly do it all for under 200 all used in good shape.
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
mko does the backing plates and calipers for like 100 then you get OE blank rear rotors with zinc coating with new posi quiet pads for like 100 shipped so 200 then the prop valves and lines for like 70 bucks and be done with itOriginally Posted by 03-Galant-ES
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
the dual piston set up would probably be the best upgrade for the price. The fronts do a majority of the braking.
thanks guys.
Yeah the first thing will be to take it to the shop and figure out what needs to get fixed. I doubt that I bent a wheel... they're aluminum. From what people have told me, aluminum breaks more often than it bends. (but that could be a myth, with my luck...)
i will look into conversion then. i guess i didn't realize that getting discs helped stopping that much, because the front has way more bias than the rear does, obviously. But i will start saving.
Actually aluminum bends and loses chunks, you most likely bent it hitting a curb at any kind of speed. If you have low profile tires check your sidewall to make sure there are no cuts or slices in it.
Light em up.
buy my brakes. you will not be sorry. Best upgrade by far, not to mention I'm basically giving them away.
______________________________
1994 Galant GS-Turbo
x2... I easily put 2x more the money in my exact same setup as John is letting his go for.... Great upgrade too
I already advertised them for you so x3
if you cant mange any of that you get a set of Brembo rotors and some Akebono pads and you will notice a real real difference in stopping power over stock. This setup should run about 300-350.When you have the money go with the big brake upgrade.
"Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!"
I looked at it this morning and the front left wheel is dead straight, but the right wheel (where I hit the curb) is pointed slightly to the left. So it might be the lower control arm or something. But it is very possible the wheel could be bent.
I think I will just start saving up and go to the big brake upgrade. It will be a huge learning curve for me to take off the drums and put in discs, but it's definitely worth it.
Yep I'm on 17's, and the tire looks totally fine, the rim is just scratched up on the lip. When I hit the curb my wheels were cranked to the left so that the right side was basically parallel with the curb when it hit. I wish shops were open on sunday.
that wheel is most definantly bent. one of my old cars had the same problem and it also does need an alignment
So I got it into the shop today. The inner tie rod end is bend on the right side. But the wheel is not bent. They also found that the rack and pinion is leaking and needs replaced which explains why my steering has been feeling weird. Parts (200) + labor (200) = 400 bucks. Holy crap! Is there any way that I can get a rack and pinion and put it in myself? or is it not worth it?
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