8G 5 speed hyundai sonata swap.

**Exhaust power** · 08-06-2010, 05:45 PM

Ok so i basically got the whole swap done and its not so difficult.

heres the parts list.

99-05 hyundai sonata/01-06 kia optima 2.4 manual
"M/T starter"
flywheel bolts M/T only
Transmission & mount
slave/master cylinder
flywheel/clutch
clutch pedal
floor shifter & cables
rear mount adapter plate (which can be taken off the automatic)
reverse solenoid plug
3g brake pedal

heres the modifications
1)transmission mount.

In this picture i had to to cut the sides off where the bolt slides through. make sure to cut right next to the rubber .reason to cut because they were to long and wouldnt fit inside the mount holder on the galant.

2) remove the transmission mount adapter plate. this will correct the alignment of the transmission sitting in the engine bay.

3) The holes on the transmission wont line up with the mount. so i had to cut slots on the 2 top holes of the mount.

4) Take the rear mount adapter plate and arm off of the automatic tranny.And install it on the sonata.

5)The rear holes on the floor shifter wont line up. easy fix is to drill 2 holes . install a bolt up top and a nut at the bottom.

01-04 SANTA FE m/t 2.4 options.

since the santa fe shares alot of the same parts with research i was able to find these.

1)single plain flywheel :
The good: very cheap compared to dual plain.
lighter.
The bad: alittle harsher when engaging compared to a dual plain.
I bought mine off of ebay for 110$.http://stores.ebay.com/Car-Parts-Dis...&submit=Search

2)starter: santa fe and sonata shares the same starter.( make sure its a manual starter!)

3g eclipse/galant options
1) you can use a eclipse brake pedal.

2)I recommend changing the axle seal to a eclipse or galant

The things you should know
1)The part of the cables that gets bolted to the fire wall isn't as big as the galants so it just goes through kind of easy. easy fix is to take the plate of the galant cables and put it on the sonatas.

*2)getting the top bolt in to the clutch pedal is pretty hard. I basically got the 2 nuts(for the master cylinder and clutch pedal stud) on the pedal like half way so i can turn the pedal for that top bolt could line up with the hole. take your time you'll need that top bolt for clearance since the pedal will sit too close to the floor.

*3)make sure you adjust your clutch pedal and rod out as much as possible. the pedal should come out a little further then your brake pedal. I used the eclipse fork to push the pedal out further.

I also cut out the clutch saftey switch nut to give it more clearance which isnt required.

*4)you have to remove your pilot bearing. I used the tissue method to get it out. the first time ever i simply yanked it out but this time it was tough to get out.

*5) when you install your sonata transmission turn the throw out bearing rod counter clock wise . you'll know when the throw out bearing is properly seated cause you wont be able to turn clock wise easy. only do this when the transmission is bolted to the engine. In this picture its the rod that the slave arm is on.

6) make sure if your using a sonata mount use the rubber spacer. You need to squeeze them in there bending the mount arm might help out. This will stop the vibration noise. The rubber spacer that came off the auto will fit well.

I believe thats all basically follow the regular 5 speed swap https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557 with the things i mentioned here and your good to go.

I know its not a step by step its basically a parts list in specific detail.

here are the speed to gear raitio with the 4g64 on 225-40-18

1 2 3 4 5
0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
500- 2.7 4.8 7.2 9.8 12.0
1000 5.4 9.5 14.3 19.7 23.9
1500 8.1 14.3 21.5 29.5 35.9
2000 10.7 19.1 28.6 39.3 47.9
2500 13.4 23.8 35.8 49.2 59.8
3000 16.1 28.6 42.9 59.0 71.8
3500 18.8 33.4 50.1 68.9 83.8
4000 21.5 38.1 57.3 78.7 95.8
4500 24.2 42.9 64.4 88.5 107.7
5000 26.8 47.6 71.6 98.4 119.7
5500 29.5 52.4 78.7 108.2 131.7
6k- 32.2 57.2 85.9 118.0 143.6 mph

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/exhaust/My%20Documents/Downloads/Speed%20RPM%20Calculator.htm

This tranny ratio is good for s 6.5-7k redline n/a set up wich is good for me.

**Galantman03** · 08-06-2010, 08:25 PM

hmmmm, i wouldn't trust the cut mount man.... i wouldn't want to be driving and then have it break all the way while driving it hard or canyon carving lol, idk IMO i would get the right mount... other than that looks good, keep it up! i'm curious to see if it works

**Exhaust power** · 08-06-2010, 08:48 PM

you really think that would snap? what is the right mount since you asked?

I forgot to say the swap is done and im driving it all ready . That mount should of broke on my first 4k drop lol . I just need to fix a small leak from the axle hopefully its just the seals and then ill be basically100% done.

**Exhaust power** · 08-07-2010, 05:42 PM

Thats all im done .

If you think something is missing you can ask.

**OMEGA PHX** · 08-07-2010, 05:56 PM

Total Cost of the swap??

**Exhaust power** · 08-07-2010, 06:07 PM

would of cost me under 300 but i had to make all the mistakes of buying other parts so lets say around 500$ for me.

**Galantman03** · 08-08-2010, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by Exhaust power

you really think that would snap? what is the right mount since you asked?

I forgot to say the swap is done and im driving it all ready . That mount should of broke on my first 4k drop lol . I just need to fix a small leak from the axle hopefully its just the seals and then ill be basically100% done.

hmm maybe the mount is ok then lol... maybe jb welds around it.. idk lol nice work. so everything fits? how does it shift? like difficult?

**Exhaust power** · 08-08-2010, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by galantman03

hmm maybe the mount is ok then lol... maybe jb welds around it.. idk lol nice work. so everything fits? how does it shift? like difficult?

Im going to put washers on the 2 top bolts.

and shifting is all right.Its kind of a notchy shift feeling .one of my shifter cable has a slight bend in it(my fault) so it doesnt auto center when i drag the knob to the left making 3rd gear kind of weird.shifting will get better after i bleed the clutch some more though .

**Exhaust power** · 08-08-2010, 02:21 PM

price list. If i would of got every thing straight from the junk yard "harrys u-pull it".
http://wegotused.com/prices.htm
M/T starter" -16.40 $
Transmission & mount & clutch- 87$ (they dont charge mount and clutch with tranny)
slave/master cylinder -24.70$
flywheel- 20.40$
clutch pedal/brake-10.70
floor shifter & cables-17.40
reverse solenoid plug-(with the tranny)

159.2 plus tax so around 180$ thats what they charge me when i had every thing except flywheel.

since i didnt buy a used flywheel i bought a new one for
single plain flywheel- 115$ ish
starter-90$
flywheel bolts-24$ ish including 2 clutch bolts i lost.
gear oil about-12$

so i spent about 400$ bucks plus on this swap. then the mistakes
3g flywheel and clutch 90$ used
a/t sonata starter (doesnt work with swap)- 34$

so about 524$+ with mistakes.

**Exhaust power** · 08-12-2010, 03:49 PM

Up date

**Exhaust power** · 10-07-2010, 10:29 PM

updated swap is not advised.

**dGALANTc** · 10-08-2010, 02:04 AM

just curious why so ill advised? still leaking or???

**Stewi** · 10-08-2010, 06:37 AM

What you should do at this point is take your stock galant axle and the sonata axle to an axle rebuilding shop. Have them measure the INNER CV joint on both axles, if they are the same size (diameter and length) or very very very very very close to the same size, swap the inner CV from the sonata into the galant axle. This way the hub side CV (outer) will still be compatible. This should be fairly cheap to do as well, probably less than $100 for both. Dont give up yet, you made it 95% of the way, keep your head up and keep going. If it works the reward will be worth it, if it doesnt work, you can really step back and say you tried "everything" Let us know how it goes.

**Exhaust power** · 10-08-2010, 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by dGALANTc

just curious why so ill advised? still leaking or???

It has a small leak but a 100% complete swap shouldnt have any leak. i just dont find that reliable or good looking.

**Exhaust power** · 10-08-2010, 03:14 PM

Originally Posted by Stewi

What you should do at this point is take your stock galant axle and the sonata axle to an axle rebuilding shop. Have them measure the INNER CV joint on both axles, if they are the same size (diameter and length) or very very very very very close to the same size, swap the inner CV from the sonata into the galant axle. This way the hub side CV (outer) will still be compatible. This should be fairly cheap to do as well, probably less than $100 for both. Dont give up yet, you made it 95% of the way, keep your head up and keep going. If it works the reward will be worth it, if it doesnt work, you can really step back and say you tried "everything" Let us know how it goes.

This is where i stopped at. the galants bearing is on the left and the sonatas is on the right(in the pic VVV). The galants ID where the splines go are just a little to small compared to the sonatas. And also the roller bearings have a smaller OD. Im not sure about the ID of the roller bearing, i tried swapping them over but the galant has a different looking retaining clip(sonata has a snap ring) which i have no clue how to remove.

other options
I wanted to swap the "hub ends of the axle" around but im going to have to research how to remove that end.

so my other options were to swap the sonatas "front hub/studs/splines/" over to the galants. if thats possible seeing that the sonata is 4 lug i might have to experimant with there xg300 which is 5 lug. but that would mean using a sonata full left cv which is about a half inch bigger i dont know if that'll introduce anymore problems.

heres some pictures for reference.
The galants on the left sonata on the right.(outer/hub)
The spline in the sonata are bigger.

Inner/transmission)
galant(bottom) sonata(top)

going from left to right.
The OD of the axle housing is bigger on the sonata.
The OD of the axle which sits on the transmission bearing i believe is a tad bigger but im not a 100% because it fits in the galants auto tranny.
This is where the leak might be coming from. If you look closely to the splines in the sonata it is a bit longer i dont know if that would help seal the transmission though.

also I changed my axle seal but the out side of the seal has a slight bend from hitting it with a hammer(dumb mistake) would this have a influence on the leak?

**Stewi** · 10-08-2010, 06:51 PM

Do me a favor and measure the HUB side splines of the axle, I need to know the # of splines and an accurate diameter measurement. Im wondering if the sonata spline size/count is the same as the EVO because the EVO stuff is a little bigger than the 8g stuff too. If thats the case, assuming axle length is correct, if would be as easy as swapping in some EVO knuckles and hubs which can be had used over on Evom for about $200 sometimes less.

**bronxbombr** · 10-08-2010, 10:17 PM

Originally Posted by Exhaust power

This is where i stopped at. the galants bearing is on the left and the sonatas is on the right(in the pic VVV). The galants ID where the splines go are just a little to small compared to the sonatas. And also the roller bearings have a smaller OD. Im not sure about the ID of the roller bearing, i tried swapping them over but the galant has a different looking retaining clip(sonata has a snap ring) which i have no clue how to remove.

other options
I wanted to swap the "hub ends of the axle" around but im going to have to research how to remove that end.

so my other options were to swap the sonatas "front hub/studs/splines/" over to the galants. if thats possible seeing that the sonata is 4 lug i might have to experimant with there xg300 which is 5 lug. but that would mean using a sonata full left cv which is about a half inch bigger i dont know if that'll introduce anymore problems.

heres some pictures for reference.
The galants on the left sonata on the right.(outer/hub)
The spline in the sonata are bigger.

Inner/transmission)
galant(bottom) sonata(top)

going from left to right.
The OD of the axle housing is bigger on the sonata.
The OD of the axle which sits on the transmission bearing i believe is a tad bigger but im not a 100% because it fits in the galants auto tranny.
This is where the leak might be coming from. If you look closely to the splines in the sonata it is a bit longer i dont know if that would help seal the transmission though.

also I changed my axle seal but the out side of the seal has a slight bend from hitting it with a hammer(dumb mistake) would this have a influence on the leak?

yes it can cause problems if the seal is damaged one bit.

**Exhaust power** · 10-23-2010, 10:35 AM

I changed the axle seal again and i dont see any leakage anymore. I end up using my left side axle seal; but when i first got both sides and compared them they looked identical.
but its funny that the driver side axle never leaked but the passenger did. but any problem seems fixed so far.

now i have a whine in 1,2 gear . could it be because my gears grinded down some? I know i grinded the hell out going into 2 gear one time. Or differential(hopefully not)?