these do no exist in the US. The closest would be 3000gt, but you should just go to the junkyard or joint your country Mitsubishi forums and see if anyone is parting out one of these
let me try again....
:(
that's a Normally Aspirated 6A12 engine with DOHC and ECI, they were a bit nervous at the gas station when this went on fire, it must have been scary for my wife too.
Can any of you guys help me out with the harnesses for this type of engine? I already got most of the other parts needed to get it working again.
these do no exist in the US. The closest would be 3000gt, but you should just go to the junkyard or joint your country Mitsubishi forums and see if anyone is parting out one of these
it looks like the loom is mostly melted. you should start removing it and inspecting if this harness is salvageable. I have the wiring diagrams, so if you want them just pm me and ill send it to you
ah the fuse box is melted
Well Got my Outlander intake mani in "thanks to deeznuts". Next need to work with the diamante tps 4 pin sensor.
so if the 3g strut bar doesnt fit, then what would we use??
You have the same exact intake setup i have hahah
Good question. Im gonna see if I can come up with a design that accomodates the Intake Mani so that I can have both.
Lol! Yeah its functional, & IMO better than a aluminum intake bcz it doesnt suffer heatsoak. I wanna see if I can McGuyver up an ABS intake since I dont have the dough to buy the CF Intake that BWRacing is offering us...
aw that engine is just so cute in there! lol!
and I'm having a similar problem. My 3G strut bar doesn't fit because of my Diamante TB.. damn thing. I might see if I can just have someone cut the bar near the middle, and weld on a really wide "U" shape to go around the TB.
exactly, i was considering doing something but haven't got around to it yet
Why not just add some metal in between where it bolts to the strut towers and the 45 degree angle, it would push it farther back possibly allowing you to weld some brackets to connect the bar to the firewall, rather than havaing a spot where it could flex
True, I could do that. But when you start messing with two different sides that are at an awkward angle (the bar isn't perfectly angled), then you have to start messing around a lot with verifying fitment.
Also, if you think about it as a triangle on two sides, we would be cutting the hypotenuse, then extending it backward. This wouldn't work unless we removed material from the back bar because the distance between the two hypotenuses will be smaller. The welds for the U should be pretty strong anyway
Screw you and ur little "peppy" V6!!! LOL!
A friend of mine (who knows hows to weld) actually was thinking of fabbing up a strut tower bar for me, bcz he had the same idea that cutting it in the center would make for a weaker brace. If he ends up doing so I will let you guys know...
'99 5-Speed GTZ: Forged 3.6L 6G74T 6764 E85
2017: 552whp/562wtq SBE on 19psi'02 Eclipse GT: 6G72 M/T-swapped Daily Driver'10 Endeavor: 6G75 AWD Family-mobile
Yeah got my diamante tb working on the outlander. The bing change is changing or crossing the vacuum lines "Yellow and green vacuum". Also coolant bypass.
Here some pics of what i did today. Diamante tb Install
clean a little the carbon deposit on the tb it was bad
with strut bar
Yeah bro i notice that extra sensor dont come on the 02-03. I think it comes on the 99-01 G. I could say this mod is great after 1500 RPM the car moves. And you feel that the engine dont force it self to produce power. All i need to make this mod 100% is to do 5 speed swap and get stage 2 camshaft.
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