lets talk natrually aspirated

[Exhaust power]

Realistically i know i wont be pushing any hard 230+whp on this theory build, but some where around 180+ seams very possible.

Im trying to give a theory set up for a street able build


so lets start with the options of the 2.4 4g64

4g69 crank shaft+connecting rods- these parts are lighter then the 4G64's and fits right in.

I/H/E- these are the basic bolt-ons. you may hear some people say it wouldnt make horse power but the truth be told it will.

Outlander TB- Im not sure if this is a hp gain but it its a tougher throttle body. From pictures seen it looks to be shorter then the galants. note: shorter runners= more hp and longer runners= more torque

G4JS pistons- these pistons are from the Hyundai sonata and they have a higher compression then our stock pistons. Ive read on club3g some where the engine compression would change from 9.0:1 to 11.0:1 but im not to sure on that.

stage 1-2 RPW camshaft- RPW is the only company that makes them for galants.They come in bunch of profiles offering more horse power vs more torque etc for the different stages they have. This is where the camshaft will help the high comp pistons, I/H/E make there hp gain.

Adjustable cam gear- this will help you get your cam set where it makes its most power with out going through the trouble of taking things off to move the cam.I believe AEM makes one for the 4G64

engine management- getting the A/F ratio close as possible to stoichiometric will give great gains compared to a untuned engine. there many other tunable things as well which idk about at the moment.

In theory 190-220 WHP 170-190 WT


2nd option G4JS engine

Its basically a 4G64 with DOHC and a 10.0:1 compression ratio.
this is the set up i would like to run since it requires less work.

4g69 crank shaft+connecting rods

I/H/E- CAI, ebay header ,high flow cat and muffler

Camshafts- Evo cams would work as i remember. To make more power i would set a new red line at 7k from the previous 6.5k and find cams that fit that profile.

Adjustable Cam gears- ?

engine management

theory whp- 170-200


3rd option 4G64 dohc swap

4g69 crank shaft+connecting rods

Dohc swap- G4JS

Comp pistons- G4JS

I/H/E

Camshafts- same as option 2

Cam gears- evo adjustable cam gears.

engine management


4th option 4G69 block 4G64 SOHC head.
The 4G69 from the ralliart lancer and 9g galant is basically a 4G64 with mivec and a 4G63 deck height. The difference are the piston size is 67mm and i cant remember the stroke but its smaller then the 4G64 100mm. and some weight reduction done to some parts.

so in theory if the bottom end could bolt to our 4G64 heads you have
a bottom end that would like reving to 7k better then the 4G64.

[G-spot]

...or just get a v6 and start from there?

[mrg7243]

but if he wants to stand out he could go this route, N/A v6 been done, FI v6, been done not as common, basic bolt ons i4 everybody has done, turbo i4 been done. IF he truly wanted to be unique he would go this route, how many built n/a cars do we have?? as far as i can see none, unless you count my head port and bolt on stuff, but that is different compared what he wants to do.

N/A i4 seems to be taboo around here

[midnight]

go for it!!

[Exhaust power]

...or just get a v6 and start from there?

If i ever find a shell or something i would consider. but i dont have money to buy a v6 g straight up. So the i4 would be more ideal to me and has potential that hasnt really been explored that i would like to discover. I would turbo like every one else but im not a turbo lover .

If i can find out if i can get adjustable cam gears on the G4JS engine that would be the best cheapest route for me since the engine already has a bumped compression suitable for a mild cam and some bolt ons.

[Reelax]

but if he wants to stand out he could go this route, N/A v6 been done, FI v6, been done not as common, basic bolt ons i4 everybody has done, turbo i4 been done. IF he truly wanted to be unique he would go this route, how many built n/a cars do we have?? as far as i can see none, unless you count my head port and bolt on stuff, but that is different compared what he wants to do.

N/A i4 seems to be taboo around here

look up "UNDERATED". he did an all motor i4 build.

Block:
88mm bore
11.5:1 Wiseco forged pistons spec'd for a 4g64 with 4g63 head
Eagle forged rods
Clevite 77 rod & main bearings
Arp rod bolts
Arp main studs
Arp Head studs
Balance shaft delete using oem mitsu hardware
knife edged, lightened, balanced crank

Head:
03 Hyundai sonata DOHC swap
competition mulit-angle valve job
Supertech intake valves +1mm nitrate coated
Supertech exhaust valves +1mm nitrate coated
Supertech dual valve springs
Supertech Titanium retainers
JAM Bronze valve guides
Blox 272/272 camshafts
Prostreet adjustable cam gears
match intake & exhaust ports to gasket and then some
exhaust ports polished

Fuel:
02 Subaru Wrx 440cc injectors
01 Galant OEM fuel rail
01 Galant OEM fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 190lph fuel pump

Exhaust:
CMF 4-1 stainless steel long tube header
Magnaflow 2.5" high flow catalytic converter
Magnaflow 18" resonator
Vibrant performance 2.5" flat black street muffler
2.5" mandrel bent piping

Intake:
03 Hyundai sonata intake manifold
04 evo8 throttle body
Custom 3" short ram intake
01 galant OEM maf
3" generic intake filter
Usdm headlight intake scoop

...

[blue8g]

^I was just about to mention him

[Exhaust power]

Ive seen his build on both here and club3g. I dont think he ever got it running(since he deployed) but i can bet thatll make some decent power probably as much as a mild built 6g72. Where im trying something different is swapping a whole engine which pretty much needs bolt-ons ,cams and a tune. something thats not to expensive compared to turbo or v6 swaps.

[SPD_FRK]

...or just get a v6 and start from there?

Ye have no faith in the 4cyl ey? lol


Going N/A can be great for drivability and performance. Most people run the simple bolt-ons like header, exhaust, and intake...but that's really as far as many will ever go before they "blend in" so to speak and go forced induction. The thing most people forget is making an N/A engine whether a 4cyl or V8, a lot can be learned from the "old guys" building the old school muscle....hint hint...stroker builds?

If you have E85 commonly available at your gas stops, building something with a CR in the range of 11.5:1 and higher (wouldn't go above 12:1), combined with a longer stroke you could easily have something to rival some low-mild boosted 4cyl engines (key word SOME).

You have all of the right thoughts in place for components, so really it's just a matter of putting something together and running with it. Will it make 250+hp? probably not, but will it beg you to stab the throttle every time to feel it pull? Hell yes it will...

[qnz]

I think for your horsepower goal, building the SOHC would be more economical. I remember 1 7g member maybe 5 years ago had built his car N/A and ran 13s?

While I'm bench racing, this would be what my fantasy N/A build would be

Race ported head, valves + springs ($1500)
rpw stage 2 camshaft ($600)
AEM adjustable cam ($150)
11:1 comp pistons ($600)
individual throttle bodies (no idea since this would be totally custom)
Stock flashed ECU (free, since you wont need an Evo ECU to understand boost)
high flow fuel rail ($100)
440cc injectors ($100)
255lph walbro ($100)
Custom 4-2-1 header $500
2.5" custom exhaust $500
Nitrous

[Isaurio]

Umm very good info here for the i4 club. I mean we could see Evo guys using the 4g64 block because is stronger and bigger. U could make good amount of power if u tune and tune the system and with the right parts yes is possible to get it to 200 hp. Is all about money and time

[Isaurio]

That looks good qnz. Don't forget 5 speed in there. Also if u go with a dohc it will double the air intake entering the piston also getting the gases out.

[blue8g]

I think for your horsepower goal, building the SOHC would be more economical. I remember 1 7g member maybe 5 years ago had built his car N/A and ran 13s?

While I'm bench racing, this would be what my fantasy N/A build would be

Race ported head, valves + springs ($1500)
rpw stage 2 camshaft ($600)
AEM adjustable cam ($150)
11:1 comp pistons ($600)
individual throttle bodies (no idea since this would be totally custom)
Stock flashed ECU (free, since you wont need an Evo ECU to understand boost)
high flow fuel rail ($100)
440cc injectors ($100)
255lph walbro ($100)
Custom 4-2-1 header $500
2.5" custom exhaust $500

this would be custom on an 8g...but I know Miata guys use ITB's that came stock on the 20v 4a-ge toyotas, some d-series honda guys use motorcycle ITB's (or the 4a-ge ones), etc. That may cut some cost

[Exhaust power]

Ye have no faith in the 4cyl ey? lol


Going N/A can be great for drivability and performance. Most people run the simple bolt-ons like header, exhaust, and intake...but that's really as far as many will ever go before they "blend in" so to speak and go forced induction. The thing most people forget is making an N/A engine whether a 4cyl or V8, a lot can be learned from the "old guys" building the old school muscle....hint hint...stroker builds?

If you have E85 commonly available at your gas stops, building something with a CR in the range of 11.5:1 and higher (wouldn't go above 12:1), combined with a longer stroke you could easily have something to rival some low-mild boosted 4cyl engines (key word SOME).

You have all of the right thoughts in place for components, so really it's just a matter of putting something together and running with it. Will it make 250+hp? probably not, but will it beg you to stab the throttle every time to feel it pull? Hell yes it will...

Thanks for the inspirational thoughts. and theres no ethanol stations to be found in this part of pa. I was also looking at the 4G69 build on rpw.com for some ideas even though that engine is bit better performance wise it did give me some ball parks figures of what to expect.

[Exhaust power]

That looks good qnz. Don't forget 5 speed in there. Also if u go with a dohc it will double the air intake entering the piston also getting the gases out.

Im not saying your wrong but a big port isnt always better on n/a. Its up to some one to find out though which head flows better. Bigger ports is definitely favored for forced induction engines though.

Its not all the same for a n/a engine though. You want a head that flows good at low through high cfm. Having big ports can hinder performance on n/a cause the air doesnt want to stick together when the port is to. Realistically you want a port thats straight as possible because "air is lazy and dont want to turn".

Ive done some porting my self with a v6 cavalier head. I can tell you i reached a point where the ports got to big and the cfm started to drop off.

qnz

thats looks like a great track set up. only thing left i would do is weight reduct the g to the max and some crazy suspension set up. and of couse a 5 spd.

[duh2150]

I'm hopefully buying another body to put my boosted engine in then I'll have a frame to put a NA build in... 5 speed Kia head higher compression, my next build

[mrg7243]

Ah i never saw underrated's build, ill look it up.
i think an N/A galant would be pretty cool, yeah not putting the same numbers as a good turbo setup, but i think it would be more manageable to drive, and tune( i have never done tuning) though less bang for your buck, but its whatever floats your boat.
I think the galant would have a big N.A following if it had a higher compression, and better tuned ECU from the factory. But the fact that it has a 9.0:1 compression ratio stock with a forged bottom end almost begs you to boost it.

[blue8g]

Ah i never saw underrated's build, ill look it up.
i think an N/A galant would be pretty cool, yeah not putting the same numbers as a good turbo setup, but i think it would be more manageable to drive, and tune( i have never done tuning) though less bang for your buck, but its whatever floats your boat.
I think the galant would have a big N.A following if it had a higher compression, and better tuned ECU from the factory. But the fact that it has a 9.0:1 compression ratio stock with a forged bottom end almost begs you to boost it.

gl finding it......he had a thread on GF...I don't think there's much from him here (at least about his NA stuff)

[Stewi]

I think the DOHC head and a custom set of cams would prove very beneficial in a N/A setup. Throw in the hyundai motor, ported head, custom cams, custom ITB setup, custom header and standalone engine management. With a setup like that you could make in the high 200's if not low 300's. There are plenty of N/A K-series motors making great power. My friend runs a K24 block (2.4 from a TSX) with a K20A head, edelbrock mani, header and standalone and he makes 290whp. His setup is fairly mild for what it is. The large expense of this build would be the top end, your going to invest the most money in the valvetrain and head. If you had the budget you could even experiment with doing a MIVEC 9 head and custom cams, having the variable intake cam timing could prove to make substantially more power.

[IVORY_G]

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