lol... you know I am not going to write it up because the pictures pretty much explain it all...
Going to have to redo this since I can't find the thread anymore... in the meantime here is the picture dump...
lol... you know I am not going to write it up because the pictures pretty much explain it all...
one good advice if you haven't figured it out is when pushing the piston back in its a lot easier when the cap to fill up the brake fluid is open.
it is also easier to push the piston back into caliper before you even take off the caliper and the pads that way you don't have to worry about holding a caliper in one hand and the clamp in the other.
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nice ..my brakes have been squealing for a while now ..yea too lazy to change them but i will soon ..any recommendations for brake pads?? i will not use duralast lol
Prophet good instructions/pictures but a few things should be mentioned on this for newbee's.
First is they dont need to remove the Caliper Bracket off of the wheel hub. The two shorter screws can be left in. The caliper & rotor will come off with out removing the caliper bracket.
Second is they should by new hardware for the caliper brackets or clean and grease up the old hardware, so the new pads will seat good. Better to buy new hardware being it is only 7 to 15 bucks depending on where you buy it.
See this pic link
http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/...8G_brake05.jpg
The other is I have never known someone to grease the back of the pads. I am guessing you are doing that to hold the pad shims in place until you put the pads back on?
That might work, But they actually have a spray/glue that they have for that.
But most new pads should have new shims already attached to them.
I could have used this yesterday lol.
I just kinda reversed everything I did when I took the pads off.
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