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Reply With QuoteHow? Just a little brake parts cleaner?Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1
I was almost sure metallic would wear rotors faster considering it's metal against metal rather then metal against ceramic..but metallic offers better stopping power cuz the grip it provides with the metal - metal contact.
How? Just a little brake parts cleaner?
Sorry to say AktionCat, but thats not correct.
Ceramic pads are harder then metallic, they also offer better stopping power then metallic pads.
Two reasons for that, the first is that ceramic pads stay cooler or cool down faster. The second is ceramic pads do not glaze up like metallic pads will in excessive conditions.
You need to use a powered wire wheel or scrub pad. I have a attachment for a cordless drill that you can attach green or red roloc discs to. It works wonders when you install your wheels, or new rotors. And really should be used on just about everything you install. The surfacing needs to be cleaned and prepped properly so future repairs are easier, and the parts you just installed last longer, and most importantly, work correctly.
Most part failures are due to poor installation techniques, NOT defective parts. Trust me on this. The link below explains things a little more, and shows pictures!
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...kit/index.html
Ceramic brake pads are designed to absorb heat generated under braking. In fact they typically will remove heat from the rotor reducing brake fade. They also don't allow the heat to travel into the brake fluid, preventing heat fade from overheated, or boiled brake fluid. However, on that subject, whenever possible use DOT4. It has lower/higher freeze and boil points than DOT3. DOT5 is synthetic based and thus not compatible with DOT3 or DOT4.
Metallic brake pads still however may perform better in high heat applications (commercial fleet service). There is a reason you have Fleet Metallic brake pads and nothing ceramic on a BoxTruck or Cubevan, let alone a Semitruck or trailer.
Quick question, do you put any anti-seize or any protective coating once you get all the rust off, or is the bare metal what you want? Just did brakes, the hub had some thin rust, but otherwise smooth. I used a Scotch-Brite pad, it didn't really put a dent in the rust.
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
You can put anti-seize on the hub if you want, but it shouldn't be necessary if all the necessary steps have been taken. I have yet to see a single vehicle manufacturer that uses anti-seize EVER. If the hub surface is cleaned and prepped, the rotor hat will fit nice and snug on the hub.
On this subject also, NEVER, i repeat NEVER use anti-seize on your lugnuts or wheel studs. It WILL cause the wheels to be improperly torqued on your vehicle. Tire Rack has a nice easy to read and understand article about this...
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107
Good stuff homie, thanks. i was just curious if cleaning all the way to fresh metal makes the removal difficult when it's time to remove the discs again, but I guess not.
-Greg
"I smashed up the grey one, bought me a red;
Every time we hit the parking lot we turn heads!"
-Pimp C, "International Players Anthem"
I've always replaced my brakes are I've described, and I have yet to run into any issues. And I've done brakes on my own cars for 15 years, and thousands of customer vehicles also.
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2002 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ
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