help - replacing my break pads

VIO · 07-31-2003, 02:12 PM

i'm replacing my break pads this weekend and i've never done that before. i understand it's a pretty simple straight forward job and i'm pretty mechanically inclined. i'm wonder if there are any little tips or tricks anyone knows for replacing the pads on our cars. oh and i'm just replacing the pads on the front. i have a 2000 es i4 with front rotors and rear drums.

**vic_v_jr** · 07-31-2003, 02:51 PM

You'll need a C clamp to compress to calipers to install the new brakes, that's about all the special items you'll need aside for the ratchet to take it apart.

VIO · 07-31-2003, 02:54 PM

what size c clamp?

**vic_v_jr** · 07-31-2003, 02:55 PM

It would have to be big enough to clamp the the whole caliper..I'd say about 6 inches?

VIO · 07-31-2003, 02:56 PM

right on. thanks.

**Fishboy55** · 07-31-2003, 03:55 PM

You can use one of the old brake pads to compress the pistons and attach the c clamp to that to avoid damaging the piston. Remove the cover from the brake fluid resevoir to make compressing the pistons easier.

You'll need a 19mm socket to get the caliper bolts off, and they're gonna be tight as hell. Get some brake cleaner and spray everything down well to help clean up the brake dust and make the bolts a little easier to remove. When you remove the bolts make sure that you note which one is on top and bottom. do not switch them around. This is critical. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line as you risk breaking the brake line Tie it up there with wire ties if necessary, but usually you can just set it on top of the wheel.

Go to the auto parts store and buy some anti squeek paste. Smear it all over the side of the pads that don't contact the rotors before you put them in the calipers. This will keep the noise down. Follow the directions on the tube for letting it cure.

You will not have to bleed the system unless you introduce air by letting one of the pistons fall out of the caliper. Otherwise you'll be fine.

That's all I can think of at the moment. It's really a lot easier than I thought it was going to be for the fronts.

**Xavier22** · 07-31-2003, 04:04 PM

you couldn't have explained it better chip - -damn, so why is it "critical" to note where you took the bolts off of, C :?: when i did it, i just grabbed the bolt that was closest to me and put it back on!

**Fishboy55** · 07-31-2003, 04:29 PM

Originally Posted by KingX360

you couldn't have explained it better chip - -damn, so why is it "critical" to note where you took the bolts off of, C :?: when i did it, i just grabbed the bolt that was closest to me and put it back on!

Thanks King, I try and be helpful when it's something I've done. The reason you don't want to switch those two caliper bolts is because one has a channel in it that fits into an O ring in the caliper. I don't know the mechanics of what it does, but if they're backwards, your brakes are not going to pull correctly and they'll vibrate like hell when you brake. Mante clued me in on this, or I would have never known.

VIO · 07-31-2003, 04:29 PM

thanks fishboy! that's exactly what i needed.

VIO · 07-31-2003, 04:30 PM

oh one other question. do i need to torque the bolts to a certain pound?

**Fishboy55** · 07-31-2003, 04:33 PM

Good reminder, and yea you do. I don't know what it is off the top of my head and I'm at work so I don't have the service manual. I'll update the post later tonight if no one beats me to it.