*run to rich
Alright guys my 9g is gone because I have a Genesis now :) anyways before I got rid of my galant I was having problems with it shutting off when idling. I dyno'd it and found out the weapon r intake was making me running to rich and I also was losing horse power. So needless to say, stay from weapon r!
*run to rich
I second this motion! i wish i had known it was garbage back in Dec when i baught it.
i own a weapon r and i agree it sucks ass so i went with aem!
People hold up. Remember any mod you do to engine such as air intake, headers, and other mechanical mod will change the fuel to air ratio. The computer wont adjust the extra air that is coming in or out. You most and most tune after you do a modification. Is not the RAM or intake, ECU needs tune.
I agree with that the ecu is not taking the air / fuel ratio changes thats y power go down i own weapon r and i have that problem
I have to disagree on that statement, being with a cold air intake, you are not forcing air into the engine, you just have a less restrictive pipe going to the TB, so with that being said, if you didn't disconnect the battery and let it sit for about 30 mins when you installed it, to reset the ecu, then that could be your problem.
more air in should cause you to run leaner. no cars just running intake exhaust headers and that stuff are tuned as its a waste of money as the stock map can adjust enough to take into account those kinds of mods. also, maybe on your cars the ECU does need to be reset as if the ecu is thinking its the same air coming in but now its more it could flood the engine as its adding the same fuel ratio, but if it was shutting off like that i really think it was another issue. if you were getting horrible gas mileage as well the fuel pressure regulator could have been starting to stick open or and injector sticking open as if either of those were doing that it would be flooding itself at idle as with an intake you get more power and better gas mileage in almost every case
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
I have reset the ECU by unplugging the car overnight. 90 miles later the light comes back on. I am not going to get a tuning for just an intake. i have installed intake on 4 different cars and never had an ECU light till this one.
the light is not the only problem. When i first start off on my trip if i press the accelerator it will lag for about 3 seconds. I had no problem with this until i installed this ram intake.
My MPG went from 26 down to 20 after installing. Also the foam filter is crap. Plus i had fitment issues getting this in. Why not shell out an extra 60$ for a CAI fujitsu that has no problems like this?
scan the damn light and see what it is. a light will not go on from an intake unless you forgot to plug something in or something of that nature. if every car needed a tune for an intake or it threw a CEL people wouldnt buy them.
my whole intake cost me 60 bucks to make with a 40 dollar k&n filter as well. stop buying brand names which are the same as ebay with better looking filters and a cool sticker
2014 Lancer Evo GSR
1996 Galant S 5 Speed Turbo
Need a Turbo rebuilt or upgraded--> http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showt...ebuild-Service
I have checked, bank 1 sensor 1&2 are running rich. its cause the POS filter that came with the weapon r. like i said the product came and the intake tube has a fitment issue and i cannot fit a regular K&N filter on it. hence the title of the subject. if i wanted to make my own i could. no reason to get angry at me for my purchases, there my decisions not yours.
and i was never asking for help on anything related to my problems. i was sharing my experience about this product so nobody else repeats this mistake. thats the point of a review.
Well I have the same problem got a weapon r intake and the car was ides up and down they told the map sensor can't read the extra air so the only was either unplug the sensor or tuned
Holy shit so many grammar issues in one thread it's disgusting. I feel like I am on a forum with a bunch of 13 year olds.
This is just a wasted post, use the edit button it rocks, and one that is still wrong. Run too rich* Too as in to an excessive extent. Now that this rant is done on to the issue.
I completely agree with Galanttuner10. If your intake is throwing a Check Engine Light you've done something wrong in the installation. Changing the piping and filter will not cause a CEL as long as all the normal sensors are still in place. If you've kept the MAF on the RAM or Cold Air Intake then your car will read the air and adjust fuel ratio, but the car is tuned for a stock ratio so since you are using a less restrictive pipe which allow more air to pass through the MAF and down the pipe into the engine then the car will get less gas mileage and should run within stock specs of air-fuel ratio.
If you've installed it properly then the MAF should be at the end of the SRI right before the filter. If you need a new sized filter you can usually find a MAF adapter to fit the size you have or can easily get your hands on. Please fix your grammar too. After periods capitalize; capitalize the word I, its not that hard to hit shift before a letter; it's they're my decisions not there my decisions. You need to understand that Chris was not getting angry at you, but giving advice. If you don't want advice on your problems then do not post issues you've had that can easily be fixed. A pipe is a pipe is a pipe; some are made better than others, but if you want to pay more for an eBay quality pipe you're right that is your decision. Don't say that they are worthless though because if the filter really is the problem there are ways to fix it.
Last edited by 03-Galant-ES; 05-17-2011 at 02:13 AM
I am sorry if I do not type to the full extent. Again, I was not posting for help with my problems. I was simply posting my experiences with this product as it was under review. The tube is having fitment issues so that the filter that came with it, is the only one that can fit. It rubs against my ECU cover and I have tried to replace it with a K&N filter, but it does not fit due to the clearance against the ECU cover. So I would have to cut off part of the tube so the filter can fit in the allotted space, or go with a smaller filter. But instead of doing that i decided to go with a Fujitsu CAI and be done with the problem.
I am sorry if I said he was mad, the way I portrayed his post was a little aggressive and I took it the wrong way, so I got a bit defensive.
But now I am asking for help with the MAF. I know it is put back in place correctly, but if it is still saying its rich, what else could it be? That is the only sensor I touched during the installation. Could the foam filter be the cause of this?
Last edited by OverCorrupt; 05-17-2011 at 03:25 AM
Normally the amount of air that gets through the filter will not affect the car so much as to cause a CEL for sensor banks 1&2 running rich, but it is completely possible. If this happened when the filter was new I would doubt it though. You didn't put on a breather filter or anything right? I know CELs are prone to happen when people don't hook up the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake or when a breather filter is put on. There is also the chance that you damaged the MAF which would suck. If all of that is good you could have a leak somewhere in the setup since you had a hard time fitting it you may have damage something.
The cheaper companies usually have 1 part for multiple applications so usually some form of modification is required for it all to fit nice and tight. I had the same thing with my BMW E36 intake since the shape was not perfect. Make sure you check out all your seals and everything and make sure nothing is damage. The easiest way to check components like MAF or any important piece of the car is to reinstall stock intake and reset ECU. If light doesn't come back on you're in the clear and it was something with either the install or the actual components of the SRI. If the light comes back you may have damaged MAF, vacuum lines, intake mani, or throttle body.
ok cool I'll take a look into these, appreciate it. I also just remembered that every couple of weeks or so the light goes off, then after 90 miles of driving it comes back on. don't know if this is hinting towards something specific. but again I'll take a look at the rest you mentioned. Can't try out the stock intake as I got rid of it.
and no I didn't use breathers.
sooooooooooooo.... dont buy weapon-r ok......make my own 10-4..........and let my ecu reset when i do this got it......gracias
BIG WILLY 9G FOO..........
i was having similar problems with my 04 GALANT when i took it in to the dealer to get a recall for my cat they said that had something to do with it....its called a soft code that's why it turns on and off by itself the computer recognizes a diffidence in the performance or detects something outside of its preset peramiters throwing a code then it goes back to normal so it turns off.... anyways the dealer replaced my cat and exhaust manifold now it runs like a champ...check that out if you haven't checked yet it could also just be the solenoids if its only 1 or 2 banks they could be junked up and not closing completely if its running rich....
BIG WILLY 9G FOO..........
Bookmarks