Lol, nice attempt to put a spin on things. Can't take the salesman outta ya I guess;)
"Decide from there"..........stoooopppp. You've been exposed already by your own statements to now try and pretend that you offer an array of options. Silly.
Thanks for confirming my previous statements on how you 'do' things. It really is a shame.
If that's what you need to tell yourself so you can sleep at night after extracting all you can from people's wallets.......
Is that where my jaw drops? I'm also ASE certified. Anyone can attain an ASE certification, unfortunately (rolls eyes...)
It's not rocket science yet you keep trying to sell that point of view.
Really!? Was it here.....
Or here!?!?.......
Last I checked the English language, "For life" means just that........FOR LIFE!!! Not 100K, 150K, 200K miles. I was the one that told you the opposite and you took things all personal. Here, let me quote myself.....
Dang your ego is worse than I thought. You made yourself look the fool. Again. All my posts stand unedited for the world to read.
Again, you've been exposed so don't try and spin things to try fix your image now.
Heed your own "advice"....
Of course, the obligatory impending threat has emerged. As administrator you can choose to ban people who don't share your views. This benefits you greatly as you can have the last word and not have your flawed views pointed out.
You need to apologize for spreading inaccurate information to those out there reading your statements and taking them as 100% facts. Your human and make mistakes but your ego has gotten the best of you.
I'll just say that once and for all, you are entirely too egotistical, and I won't bother to correct you anymore. Give the incorrect advice all you want, think I'm wrong or crazy all you want. Just remember, I offer a complete and total honest service for my clients, and I have yet to completely overhaul any transmission that we have flushed, unlike you. And unlike you, we don't like to be selfish and improperly qualify our customers. You should realize that you are being FAR MORE DAMAGING to their vehicles by doing half-assed service.
But, I guess you like that, so, go ahead, keep on doing it. I'll laugh when you are out of business because you screwed your customers too much, too often. I should flat out ban you because of your blatant stupidity, but alas, I'm only willing to ban people that screw with my dollars, or dollars of TGC Members (except egotistical newbies like you). I don't need to 'spin' anything, to fix anything here, nor would I even care to placate children like you.
So, I'd much rather you find your own way out, but if you continue to press on, you will force my hand. Hell, as far as servicing customers, I bet you are ready and willing to machine brake rotors well under machine to measurements, and you no doubt leave old intake gaskets on cars, and old thermostats on when servicing vehicles for coolant repairs. Hell, you probably put the old fluids back in the car just after you installed 'new' parts on a customers car.
*I* should feel ashamed? No, you really should because whoever you got trained by completely duped you. Oh well...I can help correct ignorance, but with you, it isn't possible to correct stupid. Have a nice day, and don't come back.
Got car back yesterday afternoon. Local shop had it for about a week. Mechanic told me over the phone that the all is well, however, he stated that I might notice a little jerky shift when hitting 3rd gear. He said that somewhere between 50-100 miles the computer will reset itself, and this should smooth out the shifting. Drove it yesterday about 70-80 miles. I did immediately notice the hard shift at 3rd when accelerating. After driving for about 30 minutes, I also noticed a hard shift when slowing down at a red light. Not sure what gear. Very similar to what car was doing before. This happened twice. What do you guys think? Is the ecu reset a legitimate claim?
The transmission computer will need to reset, so it is a legitimate claim. Though I would expect mildly rough shifts at each gear change. Our transmissions are designed to be be 'learning' transmissions for lack of a better term. They essentially learn how you drive and adjust shift points accordingly. I was always under the impression that this took up to a week, which is usually 100-200 miles or so. So a few days time should be good enough to get through any learning process.
If any issues persist, then go back to your mechanic for further inspection.
Not only is it only 1 gear, it is only occasionally doing it. I'll give it a few more days. Mechanic told me to give it about a week, and if it doesn't improve bring it back. I've already put b/w 200-300 miles on it, and if anything it seems to happen more often.
my noob understanding of the tranny is that it either shifts or doesnt shift. It doesnt shift quicker, softer, harder because of how it learns. Its just flips an internal switch and shifts.
What you may be experiencing are firmer shifts because the end clutches and clutch pack are new. So when its time to switch gears, boom, the internal clutches grab instantly and shifts, hence the hard shifts.
Last edited by qnz; 06-16-2011 at 07:27 PM
The car isn't just shifting harder. On occasion, after driving for several minutes, the car jerks hard into third gear upon accelerating. What worries me is the it just started jerking hard into low gear when slowing down. It is basically doing what it did before the rebuild. I don't really know if this is a trans. computer problem, but it seems to me if it was it wouldn't be only certain gears at sporadic times. Any ideas?
Well, I have driven the car for several days now, and thankfully the car has completely smoothed out. No hard shifts, no jerking. The car drives better than it ever has. Thanks for your help.
^good to see that they could help you out
I just have just a few things to say here, some are sort of relavent with the problems you had, and others to the posts, but this is just some basic stuff I have picked up and noticed over the years, just my 2 cents, you guys can ignore this if you like
yes, manufactor specific trans fluid is a great idea as it will extend the life of your transmission, it is indeed very expensive, if you don't have money for the specified fluid, high milage ATF from a name brand will still work. I am running that right now, I have even raced on it, my transmission is OK and shifts fine (clunky, yes, but it always has been), but as I will likely be switching transmissions in the next year, I don't really have to worry about the life of it, but in your case, if you don't have the money to buy the Mitsu trans fluid and have to get it changed, run the generic stuff until you can buy the Mitsu fluid.
over time with any transmission, between the shift between two gears will be jerkier and rougher than with any other shift, in my car it is the 1-2 shift, this is usually because this shift is the most frequently done on a regular basis, this issue isn't really something to be worried about, however, if it does get worse, then look into it
what happen to just helping the person with their problem?
n3oAcid24 = 01' Galant I4
complete rebuild. I didn't want to take a chance, and neither did the mechanic. Cost me $1575, including tax. Problem solved, and i feel much better driving to work now. Car actually drives better than when I bought it, and seems to have more power.
Not bad for a complete rebuild!
wow, that is a good deal for a rebuild
Cool deal, make sure they used a fluid approved for that transmission. Some aftermarket ones don't have the necessary detergents in them to keep the tranny shifting and operating smoothly. Also keep a close eye on how soon you flush it, don't believe figures people throw out there, take into consideration your driving habits, weather in your area and Remember how the car feels now that is how it should be anything else is just a red flag for you.
This had me ROFLMFAO!!
I Believe this thread turned out to be helpful to a bunch of us, I know I learned alot from all of Dave's "redgalant2k1" facts and pointers.
Last edited by oakrdrs187; 06-22-2011 at 09:06 PM
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