walbro fuel pump install

[underated]

i have a 190lph in my car now and i dont remember putting the little metal circle back around the pickup sock... im about to put a 255lph in and i bought another fuel pump assembly and a new pickup sock. how did you guys with the walbro get that metal clip to stay in place?

[Stewi]

Ok so here is what you have to do. First off, you cant use the walbro pickup sock, you gotta use the OEM sock. Secondly, since the walbro is a bit taller, you need to shave some plastic from the OEM sock. This is what I mean...... If your looking at the sock, there is the round tube that attaches to the bottom of the pump, then there is the little flange coming from that and the metal ring goes over the flange to hold the pump on. You need to shave the round tube flush with the face of the flange. So stock the tube sticks out about 2 or 3mm's, you need to get rid of that extra few mm's so its flush. When installing the ring, make the center opening as tight as possible, line it up and push it on firmly with a tiny socket (maybe 6mm) and extension to push it.

[underated]

ok i got a new oem strainer from autozone (p/n fs217 $14.99) if anyone is interested. i was able to fit the ring on the modded tube from the strainer but it doesnt seem like its really doing any thing the tube is still secure to the pump with or without the ring. but its on there just incase i guess.

Brian did you drill any holes in the bottom of the assembly? it makes sense but i dont know if i should or not. and also the little hole in the return line looks like it can be opened up. the writeup on tearstone's website suggests it but i'd trust your input more.

[4g63lover]

i drilled holes on my fuel pump assembly when I put the 255 in. I also used that clip as well. the things I didnt use is the EVO sock and the hat on top of the stock pump.

[underated]

wait what hat? you mean that piece that clips over the bottom of the stock pump to keep it in. Jigz did you have any problems with the increase in fuel pressure? my 190 didnt affect it at all really but im not sure if the 255 will.


here are some pictures i snapped real quick

stock replacement strainer (left) modded strainer (right)


heres one of the aftermarket strainer (after being modded) and the tiny return hole

[4g63lover]

yeah the white thing that clips onto the assembly.

It seems the car runs a little rich. I dont have a Fuel pressure gauge so I cant tell physically, but I can smell it and the car puffs black and smells rich at WOT between shifts.

[underated]

yeah the white thing that clips onto the assembly.

It seems the car runs a little rich. I dont have a Fuel pressure gauge so I cant tell physically, but I can smell it and the car puffs black and smells rich at WOT between shifts.

ok i figured as much thanks bro. you plan on getting that cam?

[Stewi]

I dont think thats gonna fit. You see that silver ring on the fuel strainer, I had to cut that whole top part off. So where the 2 side tabs are, the tube is flush with those tabs and the only thing holding the strainer on is that little tiny metal washer looking clip. If you install it the way your trying to, you will end up crushing the strainer on the bottom of the sending unit when you put the sending unit back into the outer housing. As far as drilling holes, I never drilled any in the housing. I did open up the hole in the return line on that little brownish yellow "nozzle" that clips to the sending unit. Measure the inside diameter of the return nipple on the top of the sending unit that the rubber hose slides onto, you want to open up the nozzle on the bottom return line so that its larger than stock but still slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the return nipple on top. If you dont want to measure it, just use different size drill bits and slide them in and out for fitment purposes so you can see which one to use. When drilling it, be very very very very careful, put the drill on the slowest speed, you dont want to drill thru it.

I have done this mod to my car, Qnz's car and XD_01s car and it works good. Qnz and I had problems with too high of fuel pressure because the pump was pushing more than the return could flow, this solved the problem. The reason you dont want to drill it out too large it will cancel out the venturi effect that was designed into the stock fuel system.

[4g63lover]

ok i figured as much thanks bro. you plan on getting that cam?

nah, it's not in the budget. I wish I could though.

[underated]

that last picture is with it cut off i put the little metal circle back on thinking it had to be there. i took a good 1/4 inch off the strainer tube. the pump seems to clip into the housing fine all 3 clips seat without any force, but i may take off a little bit more just to be safe. thats great to know that opening up that hole helped control the fuel pressure

[4g63lover]

Just to add, I wdened that hole along with drilling holes into the assembly. I didnt want to risk the pump being insufficiently lubricated and choked so I did both precautions stated on tearstone. It runs slightly rich but it runs smooth.

[Stewi]

Just to add, I wdened that hole along with drilling holes into the assembly. I didnt want to risk the pump being insufficiently lubricated and choked so I did both precautions stated on tearstone. It runs slightly rich but it runs smooth.

Yeah, it shouldn't hurt, but it kinda goes against the way it was designed. The theory behind the design of the stock fuel system return setup is the venturi effect, ideally that little nozzle on the bottom of the return that clips to the sending unit, it is supposed to spray a jet of fuel into the enclosed housing, doing so, creating a whirlpool effect which draws the fuel in the tank in at a faster rate. By drilling holes, you allow more volume of fuel to enter but not enter with the speed that the whirlpool would create. I think there are two main factors to keeping the pump alive, installing it correctly and not running the gas too low. The reason manufacturers switched to in-tank fuel pumps was because the fuel surrounding the pump acts as a heat sink and extracts the heat build up from the pump. In terms of the stock sending unit not flowing enough, I had my stock sending unit feed hooked up to rubber hose that went into a -6AN line then into an in-line walbro 255, then into a 3 foot section of -6AN line, into a fuel filter, then into a 6 foot -8AN line into a high flow AMS fuel rail, then a -6AN to an Aeromotive A1000 regulator then the return from the regulator to the tank is done through the factory fuel feed hardline. With that setup, I never choked out the in-tank walbro, even with the in-line 255 pump only about2 or 3 feet away.