The Galant Center - Powered by vBulletin

Thread: Battery Drain

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Showing results 21 to 40 of 67
  1. #21
    Ok i found something, This
    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LIT...ker-Fuse-2FCR5
    was in the stop light fuse slot.. Any ideas why its there or what its for? Thanks

  2. #22
    You are here entirely tooo much!!
    Join Date
    07-31-2002
    Location
    Bronx NYC (reppin)
    Posts
    3,489
    Sometimes if i remember right, the master window switch on the drivers side when going bad tends to draw current while the car is off resulting in bad battery drain or a dead battery.

    Not how fast your car goes but how good u drive going fast.
    Drive It Like You Stole It!
    7G Erubini Body Kit for sale
    http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57678

  3. #23
    As a last resort try pulling several fuses at one time and see if your battery still drains. If it does then those system are not where your problem is. Once You identify the batch of fuses that are cause the drain (you'll know because the battery will still have power the next day) then repeat the process of elimination with this batch of fuses. You'll then be able to identify the system that is causing the problem and focus on it.

    Just confirm for us, if you disconnect the battery terminal when you park it overnight, the car still starts even if you don't drive it the next day?
    Last edited by eksz; 10-21-2011 at 07:42 AM
    jjj
    98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by eksz View Post
    Just confirm for us, if you disconnect the battery terminal when you park it overnight, the car still starts even if you don't drive it the next day?
    Ill let ya know in just a few, i disconnected it yesterday, didnt drive it at all yesterday and about to go hook it back up and check it.

  5. #25
    Dam i forgot i let the battery hooked up lol, wont start, its reading 11.8v right now. It has juice for like half a turn over but not enough to crank it all the way over, ill jump it in a few and guess start testing again.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by bronxbombr View Post
    Sometimes if i remember right, the master window switch on the drivers side when going bad tends to draw current while the car is off resulting in bad battery drain or a dead battery.
    Funny you say that, I was actually gonna ask about that, my driver side window control is really wierd. First off I cant roll down the back 2 windows either with my control or the controls in the back, also the driver window is reversed, I have to push down to make window go up and up to go down. Havent had chance to take panel off and look, any ideas or suggestions of what to look for if it is bad?

  7. #27
    Ok did some more tests. unhooked the battery yesterday and left it sit all night and just hooked it back up today. Battery was reading 12.17v. started right up. Im getting 14.5v while idling. Let it ran for a few mins and disconnected it and battery reads 12.40v So it is charging and holding charge overnight not hooked up. Read mA reading again and its drawing .40-.41mA with car and everything off. Any ideas? For now im just unhooking the battery when ever i let it sit but thats gonna get old real fast lol. Thanks

  8. #28
    Senior TGC Member DTP's Avatar
    Join Date
    06-16-2010
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    2,282
    Quote Originally Posted by Tricyclethief View Post
    Funny you say that, I was actually gonna ask about that, my driver side window control is really wierd. First off I cant roll down the back 2 windows either with my control or the controls in the back, also the driver window is reversed, I have to push down to make window go up and up to go down. Havent had chance to take panel off and look, any ideas or suggestions of what to look for if it is bad?
    The contacts might have messed up... I did that before. Just pull the master switch overnight and see
    -Andrew

  9. #29
    Checked the reading again and batterys at like 12.14 unhooked. I looked at the window control and I didnt really notice much, the top side did look what appeard to be hard water stains, im assuming from water hitting the panel from rain. I took the whole window control out and well see what happens tomorrow. Work tonight so ill unhook battery after work and check it tomorrow afternoon with it sitting overnight hooked up and see what happens.

  10. #30
    PS on a side note, can someone explain why the driver window is reversed? Im guessing the motor was replaced at some point and they hooked up cables wrong?

  11. #31
    Update checked the battery lastnight when i got home and it read 12.42v, left it all hooked up with the window control out and this morning about 11hrs later it was reading 11.98v so something is still draining it, ran it for few mins to idle and its back up to around 12.4v. Any other ideas?

  12. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Tricyclethief View Post
    Update checked the battery lastnight when i got home and it read 12.42v, left it all hooked up with the window control out and this morning about 11hrs later it was reading 11.98v so something is still draining it, ran it for few mins to idle and its back up to around 12.4v. Any other ideas?
    Maybe try pulling the relay or fuse for the windows and see what happens.That will rule that out more.

  13. #33
    Im guessing thats the fuse under hood that says P/W? one of the big 30A ones i think it was.

  14. #34
    Yeah the one that is for the power windows.If that doesnt help then that isnt the problem.Does it look like anyone tried to wire anything to the car at all?At the headlights tail lights or anything.Also one thing you can check is that all of the ground wires are tight.

  15. #35
    Ill pull the fuse on my way to work today and check for wires after work, maybe theres something i missed. Thanks again, ill update tonight and keep checking if any new ideas pop up

  16. #36
    Ok so my car just broke down to work. Think I lost cv joint. Any riugh idea what it should cost?

  17. #37
    If you swap it out yourself you can get a half shaft axle with lifetime warranty at Autozone or O'Rileys for less that $100. Expect to have problems removing the bolt where the front shock forks meets the control arm (bolt is often froze in the bushing) and possibily removing the axle for the trans (sometimes they just don't want to come out). Other than those two areas it is pretty much an unbolt and put back together project. Gte a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. FYI:Air compressor is a huge assist in getting axled nut off. You should also have access to a torque wrench to do it right.
    jjj
    98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL

  18. #38
    I have no tools so gonna have to take it to shop

  19. #39
    Has anyone had experience with recalls for our cars? I was checking online for prices of parts and noticed a site listing recalls and theres 2 for ball joints for 94 galants. How would i go about finding out if my car is one included in the recall? Im not sure exactly what happend to my car today, dont have alot of mechanical experience but while making a left turn my car was kinda jumping and then slammed to a stop in the middle of an intersection and my right front tire is just kinda hanging there sidways. Any ideas would be helpful im kinda freaking out, just work part time and really broke right now. Only paid $1300 for the car year ago and got raped on towing for $150 to take it to a shop 6blocks away with a flatbed =(

  20. #40
    It is included in the recall most likely.You have to call the dealer and give them your vin number.Tell them you want to make sure the recalls were done.The only problem is that they can only go back so far.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •